Discover Matthieu Hegi's innovation methods

How does Matthieu Hegi lead a heritage brand through an ever-evolving world without losing ground in the race for innovation?

Anyone who enters the rarefied world of haute horlogerie—where mechanical mastery and artisanal craftsmanship intertwine to create timeless masterpieces—will recall the visionaries who have shaped this extraordinary industry. If the 18th century belonged to Louis-Abraham Breguet and his revolutionary inventions, and the early 20th century to Louis Cottier and the World Time mechanism, then the latter half of the 20th century undoubtedly belonged to Gérald Genta. A master watchmaker with an unparalleled eye for design, Genta transformed the industry, though in Vietnam, his name is often recognised solely through his legendary creations for Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, and Bulgari. True connoisseurs, however, will know that Gérald Genta also founded his own eponymous brand—now part of LVMH’s prestigious watch portfolio.

Tatler Vietnam’s conversation with Matthieu Hegi took place at a defining moment for both the brand and its devoted collectors: the revival of the Oursin collection, a 1990s icon, and the first entirely reimagined series since LVMH took Gérald Genta under its wing. The discussion illuminated the enduring spirit of a maison that has carved out a singular place in an intensely competitive world. But beyond that, it posed a compelling question: how does one preserve the soul of a storied brand while staying attuned to contemporary sensibilities and the ever-evolving expectations of a new generation of collectors? At times, the story extended far beyond the world of horology itself...

Read more: Heritage on the golden wrist

“I have been a watch designer for many years,” says Matthieu Hegi. “Since childhood, I have been drawn to fashion and luxury, particularly watches. So, despite my parents’ objections, I pursued my studies in Geneva and earned a degree in watch design. My career began at Piaget in 1996, and after a decade, I chose the path of an independent designer. That was when I began cultivating close relationships with clients—including Louis Vuitton, where I joined as Artistic Director in 2023.

It was a decision that brought immense satisfaction. At Louis Vuitton, I oversee La Fabrique du Temps, which means I am not only responsible for the maison’s haute horlogerie but also for Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth. This allows me the creative freedom of an independent designer while benefiting from the resources and support of a luxury powerhouse—a balance that was deeply appealing.”

With that, Matthieu Hegi introduced himself to Tatler Vietnam, but it was clear that his true passion lay in the art of creating extraordinary timepieces.

Above The Oursin 2024 collection debuts with three exceptional timepieces, offering a bold reinterpretation of the maestro’s vision for the modern connoisseur.

The Oursin 2024 collection debuts with three exceptional timepieces, offering a bold reinterpretation of the maestro’s vision for the modern connoisseur.

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Let’s begin with something you just mentioned—you started your career in Geneva, and you still live there. When I first visited the city two years ago, I was immediately struck by its serene beauty and deep-rooted watchmaking heritage. As a designer, does Geneva inspire you in a particular way? Are there places that help you recharge creatively?
Geneva is truly extraordinary, and it constantly inspires me. The element that resonates with me most is water. The city’s breathtaking lakes and rivers are ever-present, and I’m fortunate to live right by the lake. I go there almost every week, even in the depths of winter, to immerse myself in the water. I wouldn’t say it is a direct source of creative inspiration—because inspiration often comes when you least expect it—but the cool water always clears my mind and helps me focus on what truly matters.
I visited Hanoi in 2010, and while I can’t recall exactly how many lakes there were, I remember seeing a great many. Or perhaps it was simply the rainy season, and my impression was of water everywhere! (laughs)

So Geneva’s landscape and its lake are your main inspirations. Do these elements find their way into your creations at Gérald Genta? I’ve long been familiar with the brand, but it was only two weeks ago that I had the chance to see the latest collection in person. I was struck by how it retains that unmistakable artistic spirit—bold, distinctive, unmistakably Gérald Genta. How do you weave your own creative signature into a brand with such a deep-rooted identity?
For me, the essence of Gérald Genta—the element that sets it apart—is a balance of creativity and elegance. My mission is to preserve that legacy. As Artistic Director, I love to experiment with materials, blending different elements within a single design through technical and creative innovation. If you look at the first Gérald Genta Oursin, you’ll see that it was crafted entirely from gold. For this latest version, I wanted to introduce titanium—one of Genta’s favourite materials during his lifetime—infused with gold particles. The contrast fascinates me: the strength and matte finish of titanium set against the softness and luminous glow of pure gold. Exploring these combinations opens up limitless possibilities and allows creativity to flourish at the highest level. This is fundamental to the Gérald Genta legacy.

As Artistic Director, you are constantly navigating the challenge of honouring the brand’s heritage while keeping pace with evolving trends. How do you approach this?
I see myself as a ‘tailor’ of watches—I enjoy pushing boundaries and reinterpreting the rules. Take the latest ‘Punk Rock’ Oursin, for instance. It carries the spirit of classic elegance but with an unexpected edge, a subtle eccentricity. This is how I approach my role: introducing something new while preserving the signature sophistication that defines Gérald Genta.

Above The latest collection from the reborn watch icon Gérald Genta introduces three evocative models, inspired by the original 1994 Oursin.

Above The collection remains true to the Gérald Genta ethos—crafted for the bold, demanding an adventurous spirit.

The latest collection from the reborn watch icon Gérald Genta introduces three evocative models, inspired by the original 1994 Oursin.

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That was exactly how I felt when I tried on the new Oursin—it remains unmistakably Gérald Genta, yet feels thoroughly modern.
Thank you, Nikita. That is precisely what I aimed to achieve with this Oursin—boldness in design. But for me, there’s one defining measure of success: when someone sees a watch and feels an immediate desire to own it. As you mentioned earlier, it’s an entirely different experience from simply viewing it on social media. That moment of connection—when a person sees the watch, wants to put it on their wrist, and make it their own—that is the true test of great design.

I believe that a designer’s work is always deeply connected to their personality. Is there a watch in your personal collection, or a design you’ve created, that holds a particularly personal significance for you?
If I had to choose just one, it would be the Tambour (laughs). It marked a pivotal moment in our strategy, moving towards a more refined segment of the watch world. It represented a return to the language of elegance—where telling the time is clear, effortless, and beautifully simple. And beyond that, it’s a watch that feels incredibly natural to wear. I have it on all day, even when I’m swimming. It sits comfortably on the wrist, whether worn tightly, as I prefer, or loosely, as you do. It defies traditional labels—it isn’t a men’s watch or a women’s watch. It isn’t defined by diamonds or sharp angles. It is pure elegance, and elegance is timeless. That is what I hope will ensure its place in collections year after year.

I am a “tailor,” crafting bespoke attire for watches.

- Matthieu Hegi, Creative Director of Gérald Genta -

I completely agree. Finding inspiration is a continuous journey, and I’m sure Tatler Vietnam readers would love to know—how do you sustain your creative energy? How do you transform fleeting ideas into tangible designs?

For a watch designer, inspiration is like a mental exercise—one that never stops, day or night. You’re constantly thinking, even in your sleep, and often, the best ideas arrive when you least expect them. But at Gérald Genta, we are fortunate to have an extraordinary archive—a rich foundation for new creations. That’s always the starting point. These historical references spark ideas, but I like to merge them with innovative techniques to bring something fresh.

Take the Oursin, for example. I mentioned its titanium case, adorned with gold beads. To me, the contrast between the lightweight modernity of titanium and the richness of gold is a contemporary reinterpretation of the original, which was crafted entirely in gold. The connection to the past is clear, yet the new Oursin feels entirely distinct. Inspiration always has a foundation, but it evolves through personal interpretation.

I often jot down ideas—sometimes just a few words that come to me in the middle of the night—and later revisit them, weaving them into the brand’s heritage. That’s how we maintain the identity of Gérald Genta: by delving into the archives, absorbing their essence, and then reimagining them in a way that speaks to today’s world. The language remains the same, the style is consistent, but each design carries the unmistakable imprint of its time.

Have you ever considered seeking inspiration from Southeast Asia—or perhaps collaborating with a Vietnamese artist—for your future designs?
Southeast Asia holds vivid memories for me. I’ve travelled to Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam, Thailand, and many other places in the region. What strikes me most is the way it awakens the senses—the vivid colours, the distinctive scents, the deep connection to heritage and tradition.

In some ways, this feels both connected to and distant from Gérald Genta. He had strong Italian roots, and his style was deeply influenced by the South of France. His creations reflect that unmistakable southern European spirit. My role is to preserve that essence—to maintain the distinctly European, Italian, and southern French identity of the brand. But that doesn’t mean I dismiss the idea of exploring new inspirations. Perhaps one day, when I return to Vietnam, something will emerge from that experience. After all, the original Oursin design was born from a holiday Gérald Genta took in the South of France. For creative minds, travel always leaves an imprint. Whether consciously or unconsciously, I know that if I visit Vietnam again, I’ll return with ideas for new timepieces.

Above Oursin is a timepiece first introduced in 1994, where passion and creative freedom converge.

Above At the heart of the Gentissima Oursin is the GG-005 self-winding movement, based on the Zenith Elite calibre—a high-performance mechanism from the renowned Le Locle manufacture.

Oursin is a timepiece first introduced in 1994, where passion and creative freedom converge.

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But returning to Gérald Genta (laughs), I’d love for our Vietnamese readers to gain a deeper understanding of this brand. It is revered by collectors for both its artistic expression and technical mastery. How do you balance these two elements in your designs?

No matter which movement a watch houses, my priority is always that it remains both beautiful and comfortable. That’s essential. And proportion is key. The thickness of the movement dictates the proportions of the design. If a movement is thick, the challenge is to create a sense of balance—ensuring the watch remains visually harmonious and refined.

Take the Oursin, for instance. On the back, the decorated rotor is a precise mirror image of the beaded detailing on the case. That connection between the movement and the external design is vital, especially when you have an open caseback that reveals the mechanism inside. For me, watch design is much like tailoring—finding the perfect fit, refining the proportions, and ensuring that every detail feels instinctively right. That is the essence of what I do.

Would you say a watchmaker needs to be both a designer and an engineer?

Absolutely. A watchmaker must grasp the fundamentals of mechanics and engineering. It’s essential to understand the nuances between different movements because this world is built on intricate mechanisms. You can’t design a watch that simply tells the time—hours and minutes—in the same way you would a minute repeater. The movement’s thickness determines how you “dress” it.

Personally, I take great satisfaction in ensuring that every watch is as comfortable as it is striking. The same applies to the new Oursin—wear it for a day, and I believe you’ll find it effortlessly comfortable. Boldness should come through in the design language, not in how the watch feels on the wrist. A timepiece should always sit smoothly and naturally.

Above The second model presents a mesmerising interplay between the opalescent guilloché dial and a scalloped mother-of-pearl pink case, crafted in rose gold and diamonds.

Above The bead-blasted titanium case is lightweight yet highlights the intricate bead detailing.

The second model presents a mesmerising interplay between the opalescent guilloché dial and a scalloped mother-of-pearl pink case, crafted in rose gold and diamonds.

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