Cover The Deco Ibarra Gran Luz tells the story of Philippine history (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
The Deco Ibarra Gran Luz tells the story of Philippine history (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
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Francisco Moreno, founder of Ibarra Watches and an eponymous Tokyo-based independent atelier, discusses their entry to the GPHG 2025 and his mission to grow watchmaking in the Philippines
The Gran Luz by Filipino brand Ibarra Watches, under its new Deco Ibarra line, is participating in this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)—often regarded as the “watchmaking Oscars”. Founded in 2014 by Francisco “Nico” Moreno, Ibarra joins a cohort of disruptive independents and established players competing in the Challenge category, which is specifically for accessible timepieces built on creative thinking and exceptional design.
The Philippines may have some ground to cover in the watchmaking arena, but “we are in the game”, says Moreno. “It’s not easy to compete in the watch industry right now but the goal is to sustain and be there.” Speaking with Tatler, Moreno reflects on the early days of Ibarra and his personal watchmaking journey.
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Above The Deco Ibarra Gran Luz in stainless steel (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
Above The Deco Ibarra Gran Luz's 'banig'-inspired bracelet (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
The Deco Ibarra Gran Luz in stainless steel (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
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The bygone era, memorialised in jazz music, classic movies, and the art deco buildings of Old Manila, had fascinated him since he was an undergraduate studying physics and materials science. After he graduated and began earning his own money, he started collecting antique timepieces at his father’s advice. This unique interest led him to explore the history of watchmaking in the country.
He learned all about the relojeros and jewellery merchants who came to our shores in the 1870s. One significant discovery was Estrella del Norte, a prominent early 20th-century retailer operated by the Levy Hermanos, once known for importing Swiss watches, double-signing dials and offering private-label pieces.
This stirred something in Moreno: what if the Philippines could rebuild a presence in watchmaking? Why not lead the way with a homegrown brand?
He started Ibarra in 2014, drawing the name from the legacy of national hero José Rizal. Moreno shares, “I like watches that are modest and timeless, that don’t shout or ask for attention. Something that could appeal to all generations, something you could pass on. So that became the main spirit of what Ibarra was.”
Guided by storytelling, Ibarra’s designs are rooted in vintage sensibility, universal appeal and local assembly to this day. Since moving to Tokyo in 2021 to pursue his MBA, Moreno also founded his independent atelier—called Moreno Watch Studio—where he practices the artisanal techniques in finishing, movement decoration and handmade dial work he continues to learn in Japan. The studio's creations are exclusively made-to-order.
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Above The Moreno Watch Studio has become his personal creative sanctuary (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
Above The Kaminari by Moreno Watch Studio (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
The Moreno Watch Studio has become his personal creative sanctuary (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
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“I tried to study the watch industry here,” he shares of his move to Japan. “The history, what made them succeed, what made Seiko during the early years, what support did they get from the Japanese government while they were building Seiko and other brands. And I learned more about the spirit of artistry and craftsmanship they have here.” His was an evolving philosophy, always rooted in Filipino culture and refined by Japanese discipline.
This convergence of influences is expressed in Deco Ibarra, a collection launched this 2025. Design is led by Moreno Watch Studio, with Ibarra handling the limited production, assembly and distribution. The first model in this artisanal line is the Gran Luz, which distils Filipino heritage into an ageless piece through symbolism, narrative and cross-cultural design.
Above A closer look at the dial of the Deco Ibarra Gran Luz (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
A closer look at the dial of the Deco Ibarra Gran Luz (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
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Its name, Spanish for “great light”, sets the tone for a watch that balances clarity and character, shaped through an elegant art deco lens. Among the key features are mother-of-pearl inlays that evoke the iridescence of South Sea pearls, as well as applied hour markers that reinterpret the Philippine flag’s sunburst motif.
Housed in a 36mm polished steel case—inspired by mid-century American dress watches—the Gran Luz blends nostalgia with innovation. At its heart is the reliable Miyota 9039, a slim Japanese automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve. The bracelet, a stainless steel expansion band, echoes the distinctiveness of traditional handwoven mats or banig.
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The Gran Luz is a statement of intent, with all the details working in harmony to tell a story spanning generations and geography.
“My goal was to create something that’s globally appealing and tells a story that encompasses the entire Philippines,” Moreno tells Tatler. “I wanted to have elements from Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao here.” And it’s there in the subtle, beautiful details—the Philippine flag, first unfurled in Kawit, Cavite; banig from Basey, Samar; the pearls native to the Sulu Sea.
Above Mother-of-pearl inlays and polished applied hour markers that reinterpret the Philippine flag’s sunburst motif on the Gran Luz (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
Above With its 36mm case, the Deco Ibarra Gran Luz promises an elegant fit on the wrist (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
Mother-of-pearl inlays and polished applied hour markers that reinterpret the Philippine flag’s sunburst motif on the Gran Luz (Photo: courtesy of Francisco Moreno / Ibarra Watches)
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As for the GPHG 2025, the Gran Luz is undoubtedly a quiet yet confident voice from the Philippines. “We’re just in the first round, so hopefully the Academy selects us to be in the second round to be a finalist. That’s the goal. Right now, we’re just happy that we’re next to great watches,” says Moreno.
Learning remains Moreno’s compass—and with it, his hope for the country’s watch industry endures. “For the entire ecosystem, what I would want is of course to have more watchmakers,” he shares. Having once taught outside his profession, he believes that success for an educator is reflected in teaching people who can be better than yourself. “I mean, we are here today because we stand on the shoulders of other watchmakers all over. So hopefully we build on one another.”
Our conversation ends with his message to young Filipinos on why watchmaking still matters in the digital age and why it is something worth building in the Philippines. “In a world that’s getting faster and faster, we yearn for the times where we could just slow down, appreciate simple things, and that’s something that a watch can do.
“It’s kind of like building a relationship with your watch. You wind it. You care for it. So, it makes us more human, I guess. And to have something that’s a century-old, that saw life beyond the life we’re seeing, that in itself is romantic.” Indeed, it is.
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