GPHG 2025: The haute horlogerie showdown of Franck Muller, Bvlgari and the challengers

Two years later, the Double Mystery was unveiled globally, introducing two discs to indicate hours and minutes. Now, with the arrival of the Triple Mystery, a third disc for seconds brings a new dimension to the flow of time, once again elevating the artistry of horology.

At first glance, the dial appears to float in perpetual motion, unrestrained by conventional hands. Look closer, however, and a delicate choreography unfolds: three rotating discs, each beat charting hours, minutes, and, for the first time, seconds.

Available in a 39 mm case of rose or white gold, the Round Triple Mystery unites sculptural audacity with refined mechanics. Its dial is adorned with diamonds set in a captivating spiral, drawing the eye to three rotating triangular indicators. Each gem traces its own path, transforming the passage of time into a galactic dance. For those who seek brilliance in its fullest form, a version with baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel is also offered.

The construction of the Round Triple Mystery is itself an engineering triumph, designed to drive three discs independently without compromising precision. Integrating a seconds disc into the Double Mystery movement posed a formidable challenge, as its rapid motion demanded extraordinary lightness to ensure energy efficiency and peak performance.

In fact, simply adding a seconds disc significantly increases the energy demands of the movement. The skeletonised central disc therefore serves two purposes: it creates an eye-catching design at the heart of the watch, while ensuring the lightness required for smooth performance. One of the greatest technical challenges was to craft a seconds disc that was exceptionally light yet retained the precision of the calibre. The entire structure weighs just 0.052g, with the arrows at 0.002g, the diamonds at 0.003g, and the central decoration at 0.047g. This finely tuned balance was carefully calculated to allow the seconds disc to rotate freely without compromising accuracy.

After extensive research and experimentation with various materials, Franck Muller’s engineers selected aluminium as the optimal choice for the seconds disc, offering the perfect balance of lightness and rigidity, making it ideal for the central decoration. Machining this delicate detail requires the utmost precision, as the bridges are only 0.3 mm thick, a true testament to the maison’s mastery of craftsmanship.

The central disc, set with a diamond and encircled by a geometric pattern recalling a spirograph, underscores the theme of rotation. This intricate motif mirrors the perpetual motion of the three rotating discs, hours, minutes and seconds, that define the watch’s singular display. Each detail resonates with the diamonds on the case, heightening the interplay between movement and light. The choice of geometric language not only celebrates the cyclical nature of time, but also highlights the craftsmanship of the Triple Mystery, where every rotation reveals new perspectives, new reflections and new moments. The seconds disc, set with a triangular-cut diamond, acts as both an indicator and a poetic accent, capturing the rhythm of time with beguiling beauty.

The Round Triple Mystery is more than haute horlogerie, it is a story of creativity and defiance. It bends the familiar codes of time, transforming hours, minutes and seconds into a mesmerising dance of light and motion. Every detail enhances the visual and emotional experience of time, a tribute to the creative spirit, and to those who believe that mysteries are not there to be solved, but to be savoured.

While many watchmakers race to showcase increasingly complex complications, Audemars Piguet has chosen a more wearer-friendly philosophy, placing the experience above technical ostentation. This approach preserves the maison’s haute horlogerie DNA while making its creations more approachable, modern and practical for collectors.

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 2025 is a prime example. Here, both the time setting and the most sophisticated perpetual calendar are controlled through a single crown. This seemingly modest detail has transformed one of the most challenging complications, making it intuitive and effortless to use, while preserving the elegance that defines the Royal Oak.

With its sinuous curves and powerful symbolism, the Serpenti has long embodied Bvlgari’s philosophy of jewellery watches. In 2025, the Italian maison continues to push boundaries, marrying the allure of high jewellery with a true mechanical movement, elevating this icon to unprecedented heights.

The Serpenti Automatic is fitted with an automatic calibre just 19 mm in diameter and under 4 mm thick, replacing the traditional quartz mechanism. The introduction of fine mechanics into such a complex jewellery design marks a decisive step forward, demonstrating that women’s watches are not merely about beauty, but can rival any timepiece in technical sophistication.

Grand Seiko remains faithful to its Spring Drive philosophy, the fusion of mechanical tradition with electronic regulation, producing the signature smooth sweep of its seconds hand. In 2025, the maison introduces Ultra Fine Accuracy, setting a new standard in mechanical precision.

The 9RB2 movement, a hybrid electro-mechanical Spring Drive, achieves an accuracy of just ±20 seconds per year and offers a power reserve of 72 hours. This represents not only a breakthrough in haute horlogerie technology, but also a statement that mechanical watchmaking can come close to the precision of atomic timekeeping.

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