GPHG 2025 reveals a clash between legendary maisons and bold newcomers

The Ladies’ Complication category celebrates mechanical ingenuity for women. Hermès presents Cut Le Temps Suspendu: poetic, refined, capable of “stopping time” at a touch. Alongside it stands the Milléchron x Alessandro Rigotto Marquis Constellation, an artisanal creation with quiet artistry and remarkable depth. It is not merely complex engineering, but the tale of the makers themselves, with the potential to shift expectations.

The Men’s category has long been a contest of philosophy. Urban Jürgensen’s UJ-2 is minimalism at its most elegant: a model of refinement that will resonate with purists. Its rival, the Zenith GFJ Calibre 135, revives a legendary movement, reminding us that heritage has a depth no modern simplicity can easily outshine.

In the GPHG 2025 Men’s Complication category, Urban Jürgensen’s UJ-3 continues this legacy of poise and craftsmanship, uniting form and function with finesse. Facing it is the Naoya Hida & Co NH TYPE6A, a Japanese “dark horse” whose disciplined precision and extraordinary detailing bring a philosophy entirely its own, a bold challenge to Western convention.

This is the arena of legends. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Sand Gold encapsulates iconic design while mastering complexity. But then comes the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025, pure heritage, a reminder that the power of history and classic elegance endures.

The Tourbillon category is where mechanics become theatre. Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Taiko Spin Time Air Flying Tourbillon proves the maison’s boundless imagination, blending technical bravado with daring aesthetics. Meanwhile, Fam Al Hut Möbius enters with a distinctive interpretation: lesser known, yet uniquely original, a creation that insists on attention.

In the Mechanical Exception category, the Greubel Forsey Nano Foudroyante represents the summit of technology and boundless imagination. Each of the maison’s creations is a feat of horology few could conceive. Yet the Hazemann & Monnin School Watch Subscription arrives with an independent spirit, unafraid to experiment and take risks. It may not come from a household name, but its difference and daring could well spring a delightful surprise.

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The Chronograph category belongs to the pursuit of speed. TAG Heuer’s Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph F1 is steeped in the brand’s motor-racing spirit: sleek, technical, the essence of modern velocity. In contrast, Louis Moinet’s 1816 takes us back to the roots of the chronograph, carrying history and fine finishing in equal measure. It is a dialogue between modern innovation and heritage.

The Sports category is about character as much as performance. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing, with its unmistakable F1 identity, looks primed to lead. Yet the Norqain Wild One Skeleton 39, youthful and bold with its open-worked design and experimental materials, signals a new generation of sports watch that is more personal and more independent.

The Jewellery category brings luxury into contest. Bvlgari’s Serpenti Aeterna dazzles as a totem of power and eternity, its serpent form alive with a cascade of diamonds. Against it stands the Simon Brette Chronomètre Artisans Joaillerie, a rare alliance of jewellery art and watchmaking, each detail bearing the craftsman’s hand. Its originality and refinement may well eclipse even the most established names.

In the Artistic Crafts category, horology is elevated to canvas. The Hermès Arceau Rocabar de rire captures the horse in all its energy and delicacy, a lively painted scene on the wrist. The Alto ART 01 Falcon Eye, meanwhile, reveals a different kind of artistry, shaped by painstaking workmanship and storytelling of its own.

The Petite Aiguille category honours pieces offering exceptional value. Christopher Ward’s C12 Loco, with its striking architecture and accessible philosophy, is a serious contender. Yet the Ōtsuka Lōtec No. 5 Kai, rustic yet refined in its Japanese craftsmanship, has the potential to overturn expectations.

The Challenge category invites audacity. Studio Underd0g x Fears The Gimlet is youthful, idiosyncratic and defined by collaboration. Set against it, the Dennison Tigers Eye appeals with understated strength – a traditional design infused with character, conquering hearts through simplicity with a twist.

Time Only celebrates minimalism in its purest form. The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold exudes classical poise, while Raúl Pagès’ RP2 stands apart as a creation of independence, the work of one man’s devotion and artistry – enough to command the industry’s respect.

The GPHG 2025 Mechanical Clock category closes the field. Louis Vuitton’s Montgolfière Aéro shows the maison’s inexhaustible inventiveness, while Fiona Krüger’s Mystery Box reveals a mysterious, provocative design that deliberately challenges convention.

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