Cover Cartier Santos-Dumont watch in yellow gold with an obsidian dial
Cartier Santos-Dumont watch in yellow gold with an obsidian dial
1 / 1
Watches come in all shapes, and most importantly, sizes—how have these shifted over time, and how do they measure up today?
Modern wristwatches are designed to be convenient. Pocket watches, their early ancestors, were fairly wieldy, but they necessitated a bit more work to read, rather than simply turning your arm over to check the time. However, the passage of centuries and extenuating circumstances have signalled a gradual shift in attitude and consideration toward watch size. But the history behind how their sizes have changed over the years is an interesting one, indicative of the fluidity of trends, tastes and priorities of owners everywhere.
In case you missed it: Patek Philippe unveils a watch that reads the stars
Above Cartier Santos-Dumont in platinum
Cartier Santos-Dumont in platinum
1 / 1
Size was, at least initially, the enemy. It was almost necessary to steer away from bulky pocket watches and to make them as small as possible. The very first men’s wristwatch, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont, was named so after the Brazilian pilot, who complained to his good friend, Louis Cartier about the difficulty of reading the time while in the air. It was designed to be compact, a trait which contemporary models still retain. This general favour toward muted, restrained sizes—usually of the 34mm make—would continue to set the trend for decades to come.
See more: Gen.T Leaders of Tomorrow 2026: the numbers behind the list celebrating Asia’s future
Above Hermès Arceau Cavalier en Formes in 43mm
Hermès Arceau Cavalier en Formes in 43mm
1 / 1
But trends change, and so do what enthusiasts look for in a watch. The appetite for grand complications, sturdier frames and greater expressions of creativity would test the capabilities of Manufactures around the world. Take, for instance, the 43mm Hermès’ Arceau Cavalier en Formes, a combination of horological sophistication and artistry. The dial’s design is drawn from the mind of Gianpaolo Pagni—a rider obscured by abstract geometric form while the horse is rendered in lifelike detail. A tourbillon positioned at the 6 o’clock is the final touch. It would be difficult to appreciate this on a watch with a more lithe frame, while it would teeter on excess were it to be framed larger. The essence, then, lies in that ever-so-sweet goldilocks zone.
Above Octo Finissimo Automatic 104120 and 104351 in 37mm
Octo Finissimo Automatic 104120 and 104351 in 37mm
1 / 1
Smaller sizes tend to be easier to wear, a must-have for those who place a premium on comfort. Bvlgari, for example, shrunk the Octo Finissimo from its 40mm model down to a much more limber 37mm (though the case became slightly thicker), making this collection available to those with much smaller wrist. On the opposite end, it would look rather awkward on individuals with larger ones.
Does size matter? As far as watch sizes go, it boils down to one’s preference: a larger watch often commands a greater presence, while those who appreciate a more quiet approach lean toward slender models. But in the end, the best size is whatever fits and feels right in the moment.
NOW READ
Built to last: 25 years of GAOC
Meet the winners of the Front & Female Awards Philippines 2026
Digámo, a new Filipino restaurant in Marikina, serves much more than a good story
About
Tobias wants to write things that make people think, laugh, and reflect. He’s especially proud when he can sneak in a cheeky pop-culture reference or a pun in his titles and articles.
He possesses a deep love of history, resulting from years of books, games, and museum visits. It was this fascination with the human endeavour that fostered his love of writing, spanning genres, tones, and moods. He one day hopes to write a novel—he just hasn't decided on a genre yet. A certified homebody, you'll often find him on the computer he built himself, binge-watching Seinfeld or House, playing his favourite gacha game, or reading a book.
Work
Tobias is a features writer that specialises in branded content. Reach out to him at tobias.tomas@tatlerasia.com.
