Patek Philippe unveils a watch that reads the stars

Patek Philippe has achieved this through three superposed transparent disks, all rotating at different speeds. The lowest layer is an image of the Milky Way, which provides the overall impression of depth; the centre houses the celestial vault; whilst the upper layer is the firmament that holds up the stars seen in the northern hemisphere. This sky chart faithfully reproduces their movement, including the moon phases, in one coordinated and choreographed pirouette. At the periphery of the dial, the numerals display both the date and the exact time the sun rises and sets, indicated by two white gold hands.

Such a rigorous feat of engineering is only possible through the new Calibre 240 C LU CL LCSO, which Patek Philippe’s engineers have managed to keep at a compact size relative to what the watch delivers. Only 1.12mm has been added over its predecessor, bringing its total size to just 7.93mm. This self-winding calibre carries a power reserve of, at minimum, 38 hours, as well as a 22k gold micro-rotor.

An aggressively square frame softened with rounded edges, Patek Philippe’s Cubitus line (Ref 5840P- 001) is distinguished by its sharp visual language and geometric form. Since its debut in 2024, it has asserted itself as a sporty, elegant catalogue for versatile wear. The arrival of the Cubitus line at this year’s Watches and Wonders has marked a series of firsts, making its permanent mark within the collection.

It is the first grand complication of the Cubitus collection, with three subdials situated along the lower half of the dial. The current month and leap year is displayed at 3 o’clock; the date and moon phase at 6 o’clock; and the day and 24 hours at 9 o’clock; the illustration of the moon is notably rendered in a photorealistic manner. These are set on a partially skeletonised dial, broken apart by rows of horizontal stripes that supply a sneak peak into the inner heart of the watch: the Calibre 28-28 Q SQU.

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In another first, the movement has been designed to be completely monochromatic, with only the screws and an engraving of the Calatrava cross rendered in a deep blue hue. Interestingly, the Cubitus is an exception to most calendar mechanisms, which eventually need correction every century. It utilises a 48 cam whose circumference is divided into 48 segments. Subtle contours allow the large lever to detect whether a month has 28, 29, 30 or 31 days, allowing it to always display the correct date.

As far as Patek Philippe’s regular collection is concerned, this is also the first watch to use a large moon display, rather than the two-moon format that is traditionally used on similar movements. The disk completes one moon rotation every cycle, while stars populate the remaining free space.

One might consider an alarm clock function on a wristwatch to be almost archaic. Nowadays, smartphones are the go-to tool for errand reminders or wake-up calls. Yet, there’s an unmistakable, irresistable charm to be found in the Calatrava Alarm (Ref 5322G- 010), and it proves that there is ample room and appreciation for romantic complications.

Ref 5322G-010 comes in a green lacquered dial (while its sister 5322G-001 comes in blue), with a fine-grain texture whose depth and shadows complement the black gradient rim. This, in conjunction with its Arabic numerals, syringe hands and dagger-type hand on the snailed counter at 6 o’clock, gives it a sharp, modern and contemporary feel. The side of the case is another hallmark of Patek Philippe: the Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern.

As the eyes trail upward, one can ascertain the watch’s alarm function. A small, bell-shaped aperture located at the 12 o’clock indicates the alarm’s status: white if it is active, black when it is not. The twin rectangular apertures directly below it shows the time of the set alarm, with the hours on the left and the minutes on the right. In addition to setting the time, the alarm is activated by operating the pusher at 4 o’clock, while the pusher at 2 o’clock activates, deactivates or interrupts said alarm. It does not ring, but elegantly chimes, thanks to the self-winding Calibre AL 30-660 S C. Its hammer, similar in structure to a minute repeater, strikes on a classic acoustic gong that is coiled around the movement. Yet, despite this added component and being made up of 524 parts, it remains remarkably slim with a height of just 6.6mm.

Patek Philippe continues to delightfully surprise enthusiasts and the world of horology. It remains committed to coming up with something new and inventive, but recognises that sometimes, the keys to the future reside in the past. These new expansions will surely carve their own place within the Manufacture’s catalogue—as certain as the sun and moon will rise and set.

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