From Première to J12: Inside Chanel's watchmaking journey

Here, ideas are conceived and expressed as initial drawings, which form an important basis for the team at the Chanel Watch Manufacture to work with. Once a 3D model of the design is crafted, the manufacture’s design department translates this creative vision into a file that breaks it down into individual pieces and their detailed specifications, from regulations to durability and reliability. This then aids the technical teams in creating the first prototype of the watch. Thereafter, every stage of the development and production process is handled within the Chanel Watch Manufacture and realised by the expert craftsmen and watchmakers.

Another big milestone in establishing Chanel’s horological prowess and legitimacy was the introduction of its first exclusive in-house movement, the manual
wound Calibre 1. Unveiled in the Monsieur de Chanel in 2016, the sophisticated Calibre 1 was designed for the men’s watch, with instantaneous jumping hours and retrograde minutes. The technical beauty of the movement’s components was visible through the caseback, which was the maison’s way of appealing to the male audience.

Chanel has come up with more in-house haute horlogerie movements since then, with a dedicated department at the manufacture working on developing and assembling them. At this year’s edition of Watches and Wonders, the world’s largest watch trade show, Chanel launched the new Monsieur de Chanel Tourbillon Meteorite featuring the Calibre 5.1, the first flying tourbillon movement in the collection of men’s watches. Within the sleek 42mm black ceramic case sits a partially openwork dial made from meteorite, making each of the 55 watches in this limited run unique. The cage of the flying tourbillon is adorned with Chanel’s signature lion’s head emblem, which rotates to the rhythm of the passing seconds. Equipped with a power reserve of up to 72 hours, the watch comes with a matching black nylon strap with black calfskin trim and lining, and a steel triple-folding buckle. 

Another stunning haute horlogerie novelty this year is the Première Camélia X-Ray watch, which celebrates one of Chanel’s most emblematic and poetic symbols—the camellia—in the most magnificent way. The maison’s extensive watchmaking expertise is showcased here in the movement aesthetics of the in-house Calibre 2, which is designed and assembled to bring out the three-dimensional geometry of the flower-shaped skeleton set with 246 brilliant-cut diamonds. This visually impressive movement and setting is on full display courtesy of a clear sapphire crystal case and bezel, complemented by a patent calfskin strap with silver lining and a triple-folding white gold buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds. 

In addition to Chanel’s mastery of movements, its multifaceted horological prowess encompasses skilled gem-setting and artistic crafts. Within the manufacture, there is a workshop where craftsmen are solely focused on setting timepieces with precious stones and have mastered many gem-setting techniques. This allows the maison to bring the precious visions of the Watch Creation Studio to life, as seen in creations such as the Première X-ray. This feminine piece plays on transparency by alternating sapphire crystal links with white gold ones snow-set with dazzling diamonds. The sinuous curves of each link lend a soft, organic feel to the precious watch, which has a white gold dial set with 191 brilliant-cut diamonds and is limited to just 10 pieces.

It is evident from Chanel’s use of gems in timepieces such as the Première X-ray that the intention is not merely to add an element of preciousness to the watch; it is also an expression of the maison’s creativity and innovation. Similarly, in the J12 Hyper Cybernetic launched earlier this year as part of Chanel’s Interstellar capsule collection, diamonds are inventively set to create the graphic effect of a pixelated motif that contrasts with the matte black bezel and dial. This diamond-set motif gives the watch a fun sci-fi quality, creating the illusion of the watch glitching; weaving in and out from one alternate reality to another.

Those who appreciate couture will also relish Chanel’s ability to marry craft with haute horlogerie. Inspired by how the house’s founder always wore a pincushion on her wrist when working in her ateliers, Chastaingt created the Mademoiselle Privé Pique-Aiguilles watch. Launched earlier this year as part of the Mademoiselle Privé collection, the 55mm dome-shaped watch comes in five dial designs—a lacework of camellias; a composition of five of the maison’s iconic quilted bags; a pattern depicting various jewels strewn over black tweed; fully snow-set with diamonds to evoke sequins embroidered on black fabric; and a tweed jacket pattern— that showcase Chanel’s exceptional métiers d’art, such as hand engraving, grand feu enamelling and traditional decalling. 

“I like the image of this functional piece of jewellery that adorns the wrists of seamstresses,” says Chastaingt. “I’ve adopted the spirit of this tool to create a watch. While its architecture has the boldness of simplicity, its oversized dial flirts with excess and offers an incredible space for expression.”

In another ode to Gabrielle, whose star sign is Leo, the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Lion Cuff is a métiers d’art piece featuring a button adorned with the maison’s signature lion’s head motif sculpted in yellow gold. The button, too, is a recognisable element of Chanel, which its founder loved incorporating with ornamental designs on her suits and jackets. Gabrielle made sure these buttons provided both form and function on her creations; each one not only added flair to a piece but also allowed it to be fastened. Similarly, the button on this cuff is a working one that opens to reveal time, but only the wearer is privy to this secret watch. The bold black PVD-coated titanium cuff bears a yellow gold dial and bezel set with 142 brilliant-cut diamonds, concealed by the lion’s head. 

With the unfurling of Chanel’s journey in timepieces, the maison invites horology enthusiasts to explore how its innovative fusion of fashion, art and technology in luxury watchmaking allows for personal expression while serving as a testament to its mastery of craft. Its unique ability to harmoniously converge style and substance in the world of watchmaking stands out, drawing in connoisseurs with watches of timeless elegance.

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