Chanel is not dabbling in horology—it’s crushing it with bold renditions of the J12 watch

Through increasingly ambitious creations—from the Diamond Tourbillon to the Couture Workshop Automaton—the J12 has helped cement Chanel’s standing in haute horlogerie, combining a singular aesthetic language with serious mechanical watchmaking.

Yet regardless of complication, the watch’s identity remains inseparable from ceramic, a material prized for its resistance to scratches and corrosion, allowing it to retain its lustre over many years. It is also notably smooth and comfortable against the skin.

Last year, Chanel introduced matte blue ceramic to the line, in a shade Chastaingt described as “too blue to be black, too black to be entirely blue”.

The classic J12 is a straightforward time-and-date watch—the date positioned between four and five o’clock—rendered in black or white ceramic. This year, its enduring unisex appeal is personified by supermodels Gisele Bündchen and Clément Chabernaud in a sunsoaked advertising campaign that nods to the J12’s origins as a yacht-inspired sports watch.

After injection moulding and debinding, the ceramic components are sintered at high temperature, then machined, polished and tested.

Polishing gives the material its smooth, lustrous finish. It is then subjected to rigorous resistance testing. Chanel says its ceramic is seven times harder than steel and capable of enduring significant impacts and prolonged UV exposure, helping preserve its appearance over time.

Read more: How ceramic went from fringe to mainstream in watchmaking

In a bid to broaden the J12’s appeal, the collection now comes in its smallest size yet, at 28mm. Despite its petite dimensions, the construction gives the watch a surprisingly substantial presence. Paired with a textured rubber strap,  it takes on a sporty yet polished character. The model is powered by a high-precision quartz movement.

At the other end of the spectrum, the 42mm also returns in the form of the J12 Superleggera, distinguished by its satin-finished hardened-steel bezel.

The J12 Golden Black—combining black ceramic with yellow-gold accents—is another polished interpretation and is also offered in the smaller size.

See also: Chanel J12 celebrated in a new campaign starring Gisele Bündchen

Whether expressed through the luminous purity of classic black and white ceramic, the transparency of the X-Ray or the contrasting proportions of the 28mm and 42mm models, the J12 remains a testament to the house’s singular vision: marrying the exacting science of watchmaking with the effortless poetry of design. The J12 does not merely tell time; it has made time its own.

Chastaingt acknowledges that J12 has served as a constant source of inspiration. “J12 has fascinated and inspired me from the first day. It has never lost its edginess, and it’s made a mark as one of Chanel’s most iconic creations. This timepiece has completely lived up to the free and lighthearted attitude that made it a legend. It stormed into the watchmaking world as a fashion diva; it has now become my muse,” he said.

Smooth Operator

Arnaud Chastaingt answers a few burning questions about the new J12.

The J12 is now available in 28mm and is bringing back the 42mm. What is the thinking behind offering both extremes of the size spectrum?

The 28mm captures the essence of the J12 in a more compact and refined silhouette, while the 42mm offers a more oversized expression. Both required a complete rethink of proportions, case construction, and the bezel to overcome the technical constraints of ceramic, preserving the essential spirit of the J12 while pushing its innovation further.

The J12 has always been unisex. Do these sizes change how you think about that identity?

The new sizes don’t change that; they make this idea even more tangible. Proportion is personal. It is about how a watch sits on the wrist, how it moves with the body, and what feels naturally right for each individual. We are giving more people the possibility to choose their own relationship with this icon.

The J12 Bleu is now a permanent collection. What drove that decision?

The permanent introduction of the Bleu reflects J12’s continued evolution. [The colour] blue has marked many Chanel collections across fashion, beauty and jewellery. For the J12, this deep blue, appearing almost black depending on the light, felt like the right way to further colour the line.

How far do you see the J12 going into high complications?

At Chanel, watchmaking techniques and complications are developed in service of a clear creative idea and the spirit of the maison, guided by Gabrielle Chanel’s essentials—simplicity, quality and comfort. The ambition is to create watches that are elegant, discreet and immediately understandable. Complication then becomes an évidence horlogère, a natural expression of exceptional savoir-faire.

Is there a J12 prototype or idea you have explored but would never release?

Ideas always begin as a challenge, visions that push beyond existing possibilities. They foster a close dialogue between the creation studio in Paris and the watch manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Through expertise, patience, and time, these ideas can become the precise expression of the original creative vision.

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