Cover Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon features a 65-facet solitaire diamond set in the centre of the tourbillon cage and a bezel set with baguette-cut blue sapphires
Chanel J12 Bleu Diamond Tourbillon features a 65-facet solitaire diamond set in the centre of the tourbillon cage and a bezel set with baguette-cut blue sapphires
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He invites us into his studio for an exclusive look at the inspiration behind Chanel’s breathtaking new J12 Bleu
For the first time, Chanel dresses its iconic J12 in blue matte ceramic. Twenty-five years after the J12’s debut, the J12 Bleu takes Chanel’s ceramic craftsmanship to new heights with an exclusive hue developed over five years.
Deep, intense and meticulously elegant, this unique shade reflects the House’s longstanding love for blue, reinterpreted with technical brilliance. Scratchproof, highly durable and matte to perfection, the J12 Bleu is a striking symbol of Chanel’s savoir-faire.
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Above Arnaud Chastaingt is instrumental in introducing in-house calibres to Chanel’s watches
Arnaud Chastaingt is instrumental in introducing in-house calibres to Chanel’s watches
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Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, describes the new blue as “too blue to be black, too black to be entirely blue”—a colour that shifts with the light and mood. The J12 Bleu collection debuts with nine models, some set with vivid blue sapphires.
What does the 25th anniversary of the J12 mean to you?
Firstly, I realise how fast time flies! When I discovered the J12 at the end of my studies, it was like an electric shock, making me aware that watchmaking is a vast creative sphere. It has been a constant source of fascination ever since, and the J12 remains my muse. Guiding it into unexpected territory is still an exercise that inspires me, and I’m particularly proud that this cherished project has come to fruition just as the J12 celebrates its 25th anniversary.
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How did you come up with this combination of material and colour?
Chanel is a maison where exceptional expertise is crucial across all its fields, from jewellery to fashion, fragrances, and, of course, watchmaking. This deep commitment to craftsmanship is reflected in Chanel timepieces through the mastery of ceramics at our manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Chanel elevated ceramic to the status of a precious material when we first introduced it in 2000, and that’s very inspiring.
In recent years, I’ve worked more closely with this highly specialised unit to push the boundaries of creativity and innovation, both aesthetically and technically. Gabrielle Chanel showed time and again through her creations that the combination of blue and black could work beautifully, contrary to what some believed. I found this blue-black duality captivating, as well as the interplay between the matte, muted ceramic and the precious blackened gold set with sapphires of a very distinctive hue.
It took countless tests and nearly five years of research to achieve the emotional impact we wanted from this blue. After this long dialogue on colour, we achieved exceptional finishes, such as polished chamfers on the matte case, as well as the side and centre links.
Above Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 is powered by a COSC-certified chronometer movement, produced at the Kenissi manufacture co-owned by Chanel
Chanel J12 Calibre 12.1 is powered by a COSC-certified chronometer movement, produced at the Kenissi manufacture co-owned by Chanel
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What was the most complex part to achieve?
The architecture of the J12 remains unchanged. I got the better end of the bargain because my dream was to dress the J12 in this blue. Yet, creating a new ceramic colour is incredibly complex. It reminded me of grand feu enamel: you can like the colour ratios on paper, and they seem consistent. But things can look very different once the pigments come out of the kiln, and you may need to add other pigments to get closer to your goal. It’s not an exact science and takes a lot of time.
I encountered a phenomenon called metamerism: the perception of colour in the sample was different from that of the finished watch, depending on the environment. I didn’t want it to turn red in Dubai or yellow in Munich. My role was to calibrate this data by taking the watch with me on my travels because I needed an elegant, intriguing blue that goes with everything. I’m fortunate to work with experts who have exceptional know-how and are willing to go the extra mile to meet challenges.
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Above J12 Bleu Calibre 12.2 in a 33mm case with brilliant-cut diamonds for the hour markers
J12 Bleu Calibre 12.2 in a 33mm case with brilliant-cut diamonds for the hour markers
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Will this ceramic colour appear in other models?
This year, it’s only available in limited editions, even for the models that might be considered “ready-to-wear.” On the baguette-set version, the bezel is adorned with sapphires that had to be individually sourced. Sapphires traditionally tend towards royal blue, and the match with our ceramic wouldn’t have been ideal. We wanted sapphires with much less red to create a perfectly harmonious whole.
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