Coco Chanel’s favourite number denoted her astrological symbol, Leo—the fifth sign in the zodiac—and was her favourite day to present her couture collections. Chanel’s Eternal No5 fine jewellery line has been expanded this year, including these 18-karat beige gold and diamond earrings, which are designed to be transformable. The length of one earring is adjustable, with the long version worn attached behind the lobe or as a simple ear-stud.

For the first time, La Rose Dior features bangles in its Bois de Rose range, inspired by the stem of Christian Dior’s favourite flower and a nod to when he learnt to prune roses with his mother in their Normandy garden. These delicately sculptured pieces come in either white, yellow or pink gold, with or without a frosting of diamonds. They are designed be worn by both women and men.

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Graff’s Graffabulous Chapter II takes inspiration from the intoxicating beauty of the deep blue sea. The star of the show is this high jewellery necklace with a rare unheated antique sapphire—impressive in terms of both size and quality—at its heart. The magnificent 109-carat, cushion-cut Sri Lankan sapphire is counterbalanced by the elegant, emerald-cut diamond surround.

King Fook’s new Puzzle collection celebrates the loving bond between two people, whether they are a couple, friends, parents or siblings. The playful range centres on jigsaw puzzle pieces that fit together but also work apart. The 999.9 Chuk Kam pendant features a duo of necklaces, each with a unique jigsaw piece, so two people can wear their own pendant while knowing it fits perfectly with the other piece, representing the bond between the pair.

Lace by Jenny Wu is a trailblazing fine jewellery brand specialising in 3D printing. Necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings are offered in 3D-printed stainless steel, carbon fibre and precious metals. The collection reflects Wu’s architectural training and aesthetic, combining geometric lines with organic movement, and high-level 3D printing technology with artisanal craft finishing. The result is stackable pieces with intricate, modern designs.

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The latest Panthère de Cartier collection evokes the heritage of legendary director of fine jewellery Jeanne Toussaint—Louis Cartier is said to have dedicated the house’s iconic panther motif to her. Necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets in white or yellow gold feature the pompom detail beloved by the maison. The eight new creations include this white gold necklace featuring onyx, set with 353 brilliant cut diamonds in a classic black and white combination.

The graphic T motif of the Tiffany & Co’s T Collection derives from the brand’s instantly recognisable logo, and each piece in the modern, bold collection celebrates the house’s name. The range continues to evolve with new pieces including oversized circle pendants and hoop earrings, with or without diamonds, perfect for stacking and layering. A standout piece launching this month is this striking ear cuff in 18-karat rose gold and pavé diamonds.

Buccellati is known for its use of extraordinary coloured rare stones mixed with white and yellow gold exquisitely carved like lace; the Italian house’s hand-engraving technique borrows from Renaissance goldsmithing traditions. The shapes featured are all inspired by archive drawings from the founder, Mario Buccellati. A standout for this season is the Cocktail Rings collection: each is set with a stunning coloured gemstone at the centre.

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