Binge-watching ‘Bridgerton’ on Netflix? 6 things to know about Regency-era jewellery

Before mass production of jewels came into play during the Victorian times, which quickly gained popularity among the new middle class, the Georgian and Regency periods were the last in which jewellery was only made by hand. The highly trained artisans would hammer gold and other malleable metals and work them into intricate designs, and they would also hand-cut the precious and semi-precious stones for each piece (no pressure.) This is why jewellery from this period in history tends to have imperfections, such as stones within one piece that differ ever so slightly in shape and size. Also, the gems were cut in such a way as to reflect candlelight in extravagant ballrooms and to draw attention to its wearer—a true testament to the artisans’ high standard of craftsmanship.

Baubles from this period were often steeped in sentimental value. Noblemen would gift their beloved acrostic ornaments with hidden messages that spelt out words such as “Regard”, “Forever” and “Love” when the gems were placed a certain way. Also prevalent was the custom of wearing mourning jewellery—an example in Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Story when the young Lady Danbury (Arsema Thomas) wears black jewellery after her husband’s death. These bereavement jewels were made of black materials such as jet, onyx, black enamel, and black rubber extracted from trees in Southeast Asia.

Paste jewellery are pieces made with cut glass that are designed to look like real gemstones, and they were common in the Georgian and Regency periods. The wealthy, fearing robbery on long journeys, would wear paste jewellery in place of their more expensive pieces, and paste jewellery was often crafted by the same jewellers who worked with real gemstones, so it wouldn’t have been unrealistic for paste jewels to look, at a glance, as good as the real thing. If you remember, season two of Bridgerton included a subplot involving a fake ruby necklace made of glass that successfully fooled many—including a jewellery expert, albeit only based on the naked eye alone and the ruse didn’t last long thereafter.

Sought after for its perceived protective powers, coral was a popular choice during the Georgian and Regency eras. Countless portraits from these periods show its subjects, who were sometimes even children, wearing coral necklaces, bracelets and amulets to ward off evil. Coral’s bright hue also became symbolic of one’s good health in artworks from this time period. In one scene in Bridgerton season 3, Cressida Cowper wears a parure of red stones, which can be interpreted as a nod to the era’s fondness for wearing coral.

Be it tiaras, crowns or hair ornaments featuring outrageous ostrich feathers, the headdresses of Georgian and Regency eras reached towering heights, and were often paired with elaborate coiffure in the form of tight ringlets, exaggerated waves and romantic curls. The costume designers of Bridgerton season 3 pay homage to the vertically imposing headgear of history through similarly intricate headdresses worn by the ladies of the ton. Our favourite was Queen Charlotte’s headgear which she wore at the start of the social season.

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