Cover Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée sweet clovers ring, Perlée pearls of gold ring in yellow gold, small model, Perlée diamonds duo ring in yellow gold, Perlée signature ring in yellow gold and Perlée diamonds ring in yellow gold, 3 rows
Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée sweet clovers ring, Perlée pearls of gold ring in yellow gold, small model, Perlée diamonds duo ring in yellow gold, Perlée signature ring in yellow gold and Perlée diamonds ring in yellow gold, 3 rows
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Van Cleef & Arpels is expanding its Perlée collection with precious new three-row rings that proportion and colour through the maison’s signature golden bead design
It is a simple element by design: a small sphere of gold, polished to a high sheen. Yet over time, the little golden bead has come to define a distinct visual language at Van Cleef & Arpels. Introduced as a recurring detail in the late 1940s, it has since been revisited across decades, taking on different forms while retaining its essence.
When the French jewellery house formalised the Perlée collection in 2008, it brought this motif to the fore. Arranged in precise rows, the tiny beads became both ornament and structure—establishing a framework that could evolve across various creations without losing its identity and coherence. Today, Perlée is one of the most beloved and recognisable jewellery collections, which Van Cleef & Arpels is continuing to expand with additions of several new three-row rings.
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Above Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée sweet clovers ring, Perlée pearls of gold ring in yellow gold, small model, Perlée diamonds duo ring in yellow gold, Perlée signature ring in yellow gold and Perlée diamonds ring in yellow gold, 3 rows
Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée sweet clovers ring, Perlée pearls of gold ring in yellow gold, small model, Perlée diamonds duo ring in yellow gold, Perlée signature ring in yellow gold and Perlée diamonds ring in yellow gold, 3 rows
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These latest designs build on the five-row rings introduced in 2022, and translate them into a slightly more minimal and streamlined format. Three bands of golden beads encircle the finger, their diameters carefully graduated—the largest spheres sit at the top of the ring, tapering towards the underside, a detail that shapes how the ring sits on the hand. The composition feels balanced, with enough volume to register visually while remaining easy to wear.
For a bit of contrast, a diagonal line of nine round diamonds runs across the surface of the top of the rings, available in yellow, rose and white gold. These diamonds are selected according to the maison’s established standards—graded between D and F for colour and IF to VVS for clarity—ensuring quality and consistency across each piece. Set using an intricate nail-setting technique, the diamonds are placed in close succession, forming a continuous line that integrates cleanly into the pattern of golden beads.
Perlée diamonds ring in yellow gold, 3 rows
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Alongside the three diamond-set versions, there are also three rings in coloured stones. Sapphires, rubies and emeralds are introduced in deliberate pairings: sapphires and emeralds set on yellow gold, and rubies set on rose gold. Each combination is considered in terms of tone and saturation. The sapphires present a dense blue with a velvety quality, the emeralds a vivid green, and the rubies a deep red. Rather than dominating the design, these stones work within it, their hues amplified by the reflective gold surfaces of the polished beads around them.
As with every Perlée creation, the technical execution is key and a reflection of Van Cleef & Arpels’s strict attention to detail. Each gold bead is first formed using the lost-wax casting technique before being reworked by hand to achieve uniformity. Multiple stages of polishing by the maison’s skilled artisans bring out a consistent lustre across the surface, allowing light to move evenly from one sphere to the next. On the reverse, honeycomb openwork allows light to pass through the stones, enhancing their colour and brightness. The nail setting, whose rounded tips echo the bead motif, requires particular precision—especially in the coloured gemstone rings, where several stones are secured in close proximity.
Above Polishing the Perlée ring
Polishing the Perlée ring
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These developments can be traced back to a longer history. Golden beads appeared prominently in the maison’s Couscous designs of the late 1940s, where polished spheres were arranged along flexible chains. In the 1950s, they were incorporated into figurative clips, and by the 1960s, they were paired with materials such as coral, lapis lazuli and turquoise in the Twist creations. Their later integration into the Alhambra line further established them as a defining element within the house’s design vocabulary.
Perlée draws these references into a more focused expression. Its strength lies in a clear, repeatable motif that can be adjusted through various possibilities and combinations. The three-row rings extend this approach, offering pieces that can be worn individually or stacked, depending on preference. They are effortless to incorporate into a modern jewellery wardrobe, with enough preciousness and charm to stand on their own.
Credits
Images: Van Cleef & Arpels
Topics
Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
