September 2021: What’s New in Jewellery
Cruella jewellery from De Beers, Olivia Palermo’s partnership with Piaget and more
The Collection by JLG
Julien-Loïc Garin has a penchant for mixing reality with fantasy, a characteristic he reflects in his fine jewellery, which is genderless and easy to wear no matter the occasion. There are many inspirational touchstones for his The Collection by JLG designs, including history and architecture, both of which are evident in the Splash ring, which shares aesthetic properties with a suit of armour. Hand-brushed and polished 18-karat yellow gold is set with a spatter of stones, including a salt-and-pepper diamond, which has inclusions that appear black and white.
Victoire de Castellane arrived at Dior in 1999 to establish the house’s first high jewellery department. Fast-forward to today, and the designer has unveiled a 116-piece collection, the largest in the revered French fashion brand’s history. Dior Rose made its debut this summer during an extravagant dinner in Chengdu. An ode to Christian Dior’s favourite flower, which is said to have reminded him of the garden at his childhood home in Granville, Normandy, this stunning line boasts blousy petals set with diamonds and naturalistic branches sculpted from glittery gold.
Abstract ovals mounted with pear-cut jewels that evoke swirling galaxies, and sunburst motifs featuring notable diamond acquisitions define Graff’s spectacular high jewellery collections.
See also: August 2021: What’s New in Watches
Fred has put together a collection of colourful pendants that represent the Riviera, Italy’s famed crescent of sun-drenched Mediterranean coastline.
Antwerp-based jewellery house Baunat seamlessly blends age-old tradition with 21st-century technology. The world’s first online-born jewellery brand, Baunat offers a speedier and more efficient way to buy fine jewellery thanks to its e-commerce site that’s solely dedicated to diamond-decked pieces.
Anita Ko’s layered bracelets and stackable, diamond- set rings are sophisticated, feminine and, above all, wearable. Spotted on A-listers such as Hailey Bieber, Charlize Theron and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Ko’s newest collection, Luna, offers maximum style and takes inspiration from the way light reflects off solid gold.
Sanjay Kasliwal, the US division of legendary Indian house The Gem Palace based in New York, has designed a new high jewellery collection, Bloom. Established in 1852 in Jaipur, The Gem Palace was long known as the go-to jeweller for maharajas and monarchs from Europe and the Middle East. Bloom takes inspiration from the last known drawings of Sanjay Kasliwal, the brand’s eponymous founder, who died in 2019, and pushes the boundaries of creativity, craftsmanship and exceptional stones.
“Jewels are more than my love and my life; they are an insatiable obsession,” Harry Winston once famously declared. The New York-based designer’s enduring commitment to sourcing and working with the world’s most exceptional gemstones has motivated the maison’s newest 39-piece line, appropriately titled Winston With Love. Separated into four chapters—L for light; O for Obsession; V for Vow; and E for Eternity—these creations come dripping with diamonds, rubies and coloured sapphires, which are cleverly used to evoke a sense of fantasy and wonder.
Olivia Palermo is a longtime partner of Piaget, having creatively directed pieces for the maison’s emblematic Possession range, which is what the best-dressed-list mainstay is pictured wearing. Founded in the Swiss village of La Côteaux-Fées more than 140 years ago, Piaget is responsible for some of the most innovative timepieces available on the market today, but it is also known for its high jewellery craftsmanship, which took off during the 1960s and 70s under the watchful eye of a fourth-generation member of the family, Yves G Piaget.
Cruella, the prequel to Disney’s iconic 101 Dalmatians, about the early days of one of cinema’s most notoriously fashionable villains, features an incredible selection of De Beers jewellery. Academy Award winners Emma Stone as Cruella de Vil and Emma Thompson as Baroness Von Hellman come decked in the brand’s signature high jewellery designs, including the Diamond Legends by De Beers Cupid necklace. Two symmetrical lines of princess-cut diamonds are framed by a row of marquise-shaped diamonds to depict Cupid’s feathered wings. Interested? It can be yours for about US$730,000.
Since its debut in 1914, the Panthère de Cartier collection has developed a fearless reputation not unlike the spirit of the animal that inspires its designs. Commissioned for and gifted to a long line of royals and elites, including the Duchess of Windsor and the Aga Khan, Panthère de Cartier has seen numerous iterations. Now, two new bangles that come set with or without diamonds have been added to the line. Studded with emeralds and tsavorite garnets, get your diamond-set version for about US$27,000.
Unlike some of the big jewellery houses that are doing stiff shapes dripping in diamonds, Fawaz Gruosi embraces movement and colour with the use of pink opals, sapphires and amethyst. Many of the gemstones featured in the new Colorissima collection were also chosen to bring back childhood memories of snacking on sugared almonds and soft caramels.
“When I was younger, I remember being fascinated by the colours that surrounded me, as if they were trying to communicate something deeper,” says Fawaz Gruosi, who was previously founder and creative director of luxury Swiss jeweller De Grisogono. “With these jewels, I wanted to explore the way that colour and emotions work in harmony”.
NeverNot has launched a capsule collection in collaboration with Ilaria Lanzoni, an internationally renowned jewellery designer with 25 years of industry experience. The line, Life in Colour, consists of pendants that are cut from slivers of yellow gold mounted with topaz and vibrant enamel.
The brainchild of Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director for jewellery and watches, the 90-piece Bravery is Louis Vuitton’s newest high jewellery collection, which is inspired by the French luxury house’s formidable founder. Comprising eight chapters that document Vuitton’s life, Bravery includes the La Flêche necklace, made using rows of platinum, yellow and white gold which are entirely pavé-set with diamonds and Colombian emeralds to depict Vuitton’s journey from the Jura mountains to Paris.
“I was surprised that a fashion house like Louis Vuitton was created through the sheer courage of one young man,” says Amfitheatrof. “Driven by his curiosity about the world, he embarked on that incredible journey across France. That’s why we have named this collection Bravery. It’s not a word often used in high jewellery, yet these notions of determination and adventure are intrinsic to Louis Vuitton, and we wanted to express them through this collection.”