Cover A suite of two Insofu Collection necklaces comprising a choker in white gold set with a central 6.61-carat emerald-cut emerald and diamonds, and a tie necklace in white gold set with emeralds totalling 10.86 carats and diamonds; Caroline’s Couture dress and cape
A suite of two Insofu Collection necklaces comprising a choker in white gold set with a central 6.61-carat emerald-cut emerald and diamonds, and a tie necklace in white gold set with emeralds totalling 10.86 carats and diamonds; Caroline’s Couture dress and cape
1 / 1
Chopard transforms an extraordinary Zambian emerald rough into a series of one-of-a-kind creations for its new high jewellery collection, Insofu
Not only are elephants majestic and powerful animals, these gentle giants are also revered in many cultures as a symbol of memory, strength and good fortune. It is fitting, then, that Chopard’s latest high jewellery collection, Insofu Collection, takes its name from this magnificent creature. Insofu, or “elephant” in the Bemba language of Zambia, refers to the rare 6,225-carat rough emerald discovered in the country’s Kagem mine, whose curved, trunk-like form inspired its name. This incredible stone was acquired in 2022 by Chopard co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele, and was named the Insofu Emerald. From this monumental stone, Chopard has created an ambitious, deeply expressive collection of one-of-a-kind jewels.
Above A suite of two Insofu Collection necklaces comprising a choker in white gold set with a central 6.61-carat emerald-cut emerald and diamonds, and a tie necklace in white gold set with emeralds totalling 10.86 carats and diamonds; Caroline’s Couture dress and cape
A suite of two Insofu Collection necklaces comprising a choker in white gold set with a central 6.61-carat emerald-cut emerald and diamonds, and a tie necklace in white gold set with emeralds totalling 10.86 carats and diamonds; Caroline’s Couture dress and cape
1 / 1
As the Insofu Emerald was an unprecedented find, it presented the Swiss luxury watch and jewellery brand with both exciting creative possibilities and a philosophical challenge. Unlike rough diamonds, whose yield can be predicted with scientific accuracy, emeralds present a far greater challenge—their true potential only becomes apparent during the delicate and often unpredictable cutting process. Furthermore, emeralds conceal their nature within—a garden of inclusions known as jardin—and must be approached with equal parts skill and reverence.
Recognising the care and patience it would take to do the emerald rough justice, Chopard embarked on a year-long process of study and transformation, working with master gem-cutters in India to gently coax emeralds totalling 850 carats from the rough stone—each one shaped to preserve both the beauty and integrity of the gem.
Above Chopard co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele with the Chopard Insofu Emerald before the cutting process
Chopard co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele with the Chopard Insofu Emerald before the cutting process
1 / 1
The first creations of the Insofu Collection debuted during the week of the Oscars in March last year with a parure comprising a necklace, earrings and ring. Set with emeralds from the original rough alongside vivid rubellites and accents of sky‑blue turquoise, the capsule offered an early glimpse into Chopard’s daring creative direction for this remarkable stone.
In March this year, Chopard unveiled 15 new Insofu Collection high jewellery pieces: five earrings, four necklaces, three rings, a bracelet and a jewellery watch. The designs strike a delicate balance between structure and sensuality, drawing inspiration from art-deco symmetry, natural motifs, and the glamour of the Roaring Twenties. A series of four necklaces is particularly compelling. With the ability to be worn individually or layered, they shift between restraint and exuberance, from a refined emerald and diamond choker to a luminous sautoir threaded with pink pearls and vibrant gems.
Above Chopard Insofu Collection earrings in white gold set with emeralds totalling 15.91 carats and diamonds; Insofu Collection pendant in platinum and white gold set with emeralds totalling 47.18 carats and diamonds; Insofu Collection ring in white gold set with an 11.17-carat heart-shaped emerald and diamonds; Caroline’s Couture dress
Chopard Insofu Collection earrings in white gold set with emeralds totalling 15.91 carats and diamonds; Insofu Collection pendant in platinum and white gold set with emeralds totalling 47.18 carats and diamonds; Insofu Collection ring in white gold set with an 11.17-carat heart-shaped emerald and diamonds; Caroline’s Couture dress
1 / 1
The elephant appears again, not just as a muse but as a motif. In one standout necklace, an elephant-shaped pendant, formed from emeralds in varying cuts, anchors a long chain, its raised trunk traditionally seen as a symbol of good luck. Meanwhile, a bold cuff bracelet ripples with pearl “waves” and leaf-like fronds set with emeralds and diamonds—a sculptural nod to both land and sea. The use of colour, too, plays a key role in the Insofu Collection, through an emotional, painterly approach where deep green emeralds are paired thoughtfully with rubellites, pink sapphires, turquoise and tsavorites.
“In every stone lies a story, and my role is to listen and honour the natural magic they carry as treasures from the Earth,” said Scheufele. “With the Insofu Collection, it was about respecting this inherent beauty. I chose the finest quality stones from the heart of the emerald, pairing them with diamonds, pink sapphires and pearls.”
Above Insofu Collection cuff bracelet composed of 10 strands of pearls, featuring a floral motif in white gold set with emeralds totalling 16.58 carats, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds
Insofu Collection cuff bracelet composed of 10 strands of pearls, featuring a floral motif in white gold set with emeralds totalling 16.58 carats, Paraiba tourmalines and diamonds
1 / 1
Jewellery is only one part of the equation. For this debut, Chopard also unveiled five couture gowns, created under Caroline’s Couture label to accompany key pieces. This holistic approach reflects Scheufele’s vision of beauty as something immersive—where jewellery, fashion and the woman who wears them exist in perfect harmony.
Beneath the glamour, the Insofu Collection is rooted in serious intent. Traceability is not merely an industry buzzword but a measurable commitment. Chopard employed Gübelin’s Emerald Paternity Test, a technology that introduces DNA-based nanoparticles into the emerald’s natural fissures, allowing its origin to be verified decades into the future. This is traceability as permanence: a future-facing legacy encoded within the gem itself. This innovative technology reinforces the maison’s sustainability credentials, building on its commitment to using 100 per cent ethical gold in all its jewellery and timepieces since July 2018.
Beyond the lab, the social impact extends further still. The collection is presented in partnership with the Elephant Family charity, an organisation dedicated to protecting Asia’s endangered wildlife and the communities living alongside it. A portion of proceeds from each piece sold in this collection will be directed towards conservation efforts—a tribute to the emerald’s origins and to Chopard’s long-standing dedication to ethical luxury.
This is not the first time Chopard has taken such an unconventional path of painstakingly crafting a jewellery collection from a rough—2017’s Garden of Kalahari collection, born from a 342-carat rough diamond, laid the groundwork. But with Insofu, the house has refined its approach. By managing every step of the journey, from the raw stone and ethical gold casting to design, gem‑setting and finishing, all in-house, Chopard ensures a rare continuity of vision and execution.
With the Insofu Collection, Chopard continues to push the boundaries of high jewellery, uniting exceptional craftsmanship, meaningful design and a strong ethical foundation. From mine to masterpiece, every element has been carefully considered—not just to showcase the beauty of a remarkable gem, but to reflect a deeper, more enduring vision of modern luxury.
Topics
Annabel Tan is the Editor of Watches and Jewellery at Tatler Singapore, where she covers all things luxury timepieces and fine jewellery across both print and digital platforms. She is also the Editor of Tatler GMT Singapore, a role that deepens her fascination with the ever-evolving world of watchmaking. Outside of work, she’s usually on the hunt for her next favourite watch that she can’t afford, planning her next beach getaway, or catching up on the latest Formula 1 race.
