Cover Chopard once again captivates connoisseurs by daring to bring an uncut emerald block into its workshop
Chopard once again captivates connoisseurs by daring to bring an uncut emerald block into its workshop
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For only the second time in its history, Chopard has taken the bold step of creating a high jewellery collection from a rough stone, eschewing the conventional route of using cut and polished gemstones.
Rather than taking the predictable path of refined stones, Chopard once again captivates connoisseurs by daring to bring an uncut emerald block into its workshop. This unconventional approach is a rarity in the jewellery world, yet it reflects the Maison’s commitment to provenance transparency and its dedication to working hand-in-hand with those at the origin of the supply chain.
Here, Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard, shares her thoughts on the 6,225-carat Insofu rough emerald, a natural marvel that speaks to the craftsmanship and devotion of Chopard’s artisans, while embodying a vision for a more sustainable kind of luxury.
Above Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard
Caroline Scheufele, Co-President and Artistic Director of Chopard
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The Insofu collection marks the first time Chopard has designed a Haute Joaillerie collection from a single rough emerald. Does this mark a broader shift in the way the brand sources and works with uncut gemstones?
After working with the Queen of Kalahari diamond, I became intrigued by the idea of starting again from the raw form, this time with a gemstone I personally adore: the emerald. The way emeralds are cut differs markedly from diamonds. With emeralds, it is impossible to predict with certainty how the final stone will appear once it has been cut.
Above The 6,225-carat Insofu rough emerald
The 6,225-carat Insofu rough emerald
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You can only form an impression alongside master gem cutters, which makes the outcome both unexpectedly beautiful and inherently risky. For me, beginning with a rough stone and being involved in the cutting process—sharing in the responsibility of unveiling a gemstone’s true essence—feels like entering into a captivating dialogue with nature.
I see the Insofu collection, and the wider project surrounding it, as a pioneering and meaningful chapter for our Maison. It reinforces our dedication to artistry, ethical practices, and excellence in craftsmanship, values that lie at the heart of Chopard’s DNA, and that guide us on our ongoing path towards sustainable luxury.
Above Sustainability has always been a guiding principle at Chopard
Sustainability has always been a guiding principle at Chopard
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By sourcing and crafting the Insofu emerald, Chopard has deepened its commitment to responsible mining. Is this part of a greater ambition to oversee the full gemstone supply chain?
This is undoubtedly a significant milestone, though achieving complete oversight of the gemstone supply chain remains a complex and evolving challenge. As a family-run Maison with a long-term perspective, sustainability has been a central principle at Chopard. In 2013, we launched our Journey to Sustainable Luxury, a commitment to responsible sourcing and to uplifting the often under-recognised individuals within the supply chain. Since 2018, we have used 100 per cent ethical gold across all our timepieces and jewellery. This was made possible through over four decades of investment in developing a closed-loop manufacturing system, and in refining every stage of our gold production in-house, including operating one of the rare gold smelters within the industry.
Above Since 2018, Chopard has used 100 per cent ethical gold across all our timepieces and jewellery
Since 2018, Chopard has used 100 per cent ethical gold across all our timepieces and jewellery
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By acquiring the Insofu rough emerald, we have accompanied its entire journey from uncut form to finished masterpiece thanks to our in-house expertise. From gemstone cutting to jewellery design, our workshops ensure full traceability at every stage, a rarity when it comes to stones of this calibre. Moreover, each jewel in this collection is crafted from 100 per cent ethical gold, smelted in our Geneva ateliers by master artisans.
This responsible approach lies at the core of all that we do, and it is something both Chopard and I hold very close to heart.
Will full transparency in gemstone sourcing eventually become the norm rather than a matter of ethics?
Yes, I believe the industry is undergoing a clear shift towards transparency and responsible sourcing. These are intricate matters, but they are increasingly becoming central topics of discussion. As I often say, “Rome wasn’t built in a day”. It’s been a long road, but certainly the right one.
How do you view the transition from “luxury” to “responsible luxury”? Is Chopard aiming to take the lead in redefining sustainable luxury?
This transition represents a meaningful evolution. At Chopard, we regard it as a natural extension of our mission: to craft beautiful, refined creations that are mindful of both planet and people. Today’s discerning clientele want brands that reflect their principles. Chopard is determined to lead this shift within the watch and jewellery world, with initiatives centred on ethical sourcing, environmental care and social responsibility. We believe luxury and sustainability can sit comfortably side by side, and we are eager to work alongside others in advancing more responsible sourcing practices across the industry.
Above “Insofu” means “elephant” in Bemba, and lends its name to Chopard’s new collection
Above Chopard has long honoured the natural beauty of gemstones and the narratives they carry
“Insofu” means “elephant” in Bemba, and lends its name to Chopard’s new collection
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“Insofu” means “elephant” in the Bemba language. Why did Chopard choose this as the central inspiration, and what does it say about the brand’s creative philosophy?
We chose the name “Insofu”, meaning “elephant” in Bemba, to honour the remarkable 6,225-carat rough emerald from the Kagem mine in Zambia, whose form recalled an elephant’s trunk. I felt it was only right to pay tribute to this magnificent creature by not only naming the collection after it, but by designing a standout elephant necklace featuring over 45 carats of Insofu emeralds—its trunk raised, naturally, as a symbol of good fortune.
For us, it was essential to respect the intrinsic beauty of each stone, and the stories they tell. This collection embodies Chopard’s broader creative ethos, one rooted in sustainability, ethical sourcing and a profound reverence for the natural world.
Above The moment Caroline Scheufele saw the Insofu emerald in its raw form, she knew it would become something truly extraordinary
The moment Caroline Scheufele saw the Insofu emerald in its raw form, she knew it would become something truly extraordinary
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Can you recall your most memorable moment working with the Insofu emerald?
The very first time I saw the rough Insofu emerald from the Kagem mine, I was utterly captivated. I knew at once that we had to create something truly exceptional.
With the help of some of the most accomplished emerald cutters in India, we studied the stone with care, proposing cuts and facets that would accentuate its natural splendour without compromising its ‘soul’. Shaping it into exquisite pieces that both honour its raw beauty and reflect Chopard’s sustainable values has been a deeply fulfilling journey. The process itself is a celebration of the harmony between nature and craftsmanship, resulting in creations that are not only radiant, but resonant.
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