Cover The charm necklace echoes an icon that has never truly faded

Looking back at the catwalks of recent years, amid countless creative expressions and personal signatures, the charm necklace re-emerges like a whisper from the past.

Looking back at the catwalks of recent years, amid the myriad of inventive silhouettes and unique touches, the charm necklace re-emerges like a whisper from the past. It is an echo of an icon that has never truly faded.

Charm necklaces are not a novelty of the present, nor a creation of recent decades. Since the earliest days of civilisation, charms have journeyed with humankind, steeped in belief and rich with memory. In an age where personal narrative shapes style, the return of the charm necklace signals not a fleeting revival, but a meaningful reunion.

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The origin of the “charm” trend

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Above Amulet necklace, bear claw and red trade beads, Chippewa Indians, North America (photo: Wellcome Collection gallery)

Tracing the charm’s history reveals its roots deep within ancient civilisations. The earliest pieces, carved from stone, bone, wood, clay, or shell, were worn on leather cords. Though their precise meaning remains elusive, it is widely believed that charms served to ward off misfortune, invite good fortune, and honour significant events.

That intention carried forward into the time of the Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians and Hittites, who refined jewellery-making by introducing semi-precious stones such as lapis lazuli and crystal.

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Above A heart-shaped amulet necklace from a Nubian jewellery display case at the Nubian Museum in Aswan, Egypt (photo: Wikimedia Commons)

Ancient Egypt offers another striking example. Egyptians etched sacred symbols—scarab beetles, the Eye of Horus, or the Sun God Ra—into gemstones, weaving them into necklaces intended to safeguard souls as they passed into the afterlife.

During the Roman Empire, charms became emblems of identity. Christians, for instance, concealed fish-shaped symbols (ichthys) in their clothing as a discreet sign of faith, while Jewish scholars carried small inscriptions of religious law in gold amulets worn close to the heart.

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Above Terracotta necklace with palm leaf and lotus pendant, 3rd century BC (photo: Met Museum)

In the Middle Ages, charms denoted lineage and allegiance to a family, a monarch, or a faith. Knights and kings wore amulets for protection on the battlefield. By the Renaissance, charms grew ever more intricate. Silver, pearls and gemstones adorned pieces that bore heraldic crests and personal insignias, at once declarations of status and social identifiers.

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Above A charm bracelet design worn frequently by Queen Victoria (photo: Royal Collection Trust)

The 19th century marked a defining chapter, as Queen Victoria began wearing charm bracelets inscribed with portraits of her husband, children and lost loved ones. No longer mere talismans, charms became repositories of sentiment. A new kind of personal relic was born.

Women across Europe adopted the practice to mark anniversaries, births, or the memory of someone dear. Necklaces with dainty pendants in gold or silver grew popular among the middle classes, supported by a thriving jewellery trade.

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Above Elizabeth Taylor’s charm necklace (photo: Christie’s)

From the mid-20th century, charm bracelets left the privileged space of the aristocracy and entered common life, when silver screen stars such as Joan Crawford, Elizabeth Taylor and Natalie Wood appeared with this jewellery both in movies and in everyday moments. In the second half of the 20th century, charms began to be associated with milestones in life such as 16th or 18th birthdays, graduations, engagements or marriages, as well as important events. In some families, especially those of the Western upper class, the tradition of giving charm bracelets to 13-year-old girls became a rite of passage.

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Above Collectors sought out vintage pieces, particularly mechanical charms—those that open or move (photo: Tiffany & Co.)
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Above Today, the charm trend has resurfaced in step with the Y2K revival (photo: Pandora)

Although the trend faded in the 1970s, a wave of nostalgia in the 1990s and early 2000s reignited interest in charms. Collectors sought out vintage pieces, particularly mechanical charms—those that open or move. Today, the charm trend has resurfaced in step with the Y2K revival, a style movement shaped by the fashion and culture of the late ’90s and early 2000s, ushering in a fresh wave of bracelets, handbags and necklaces adorned with playful trinkets.

Decoding the return of a trend

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Above Chloé Spring Summer 2025 Collection
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Above Chloé Spring Summer 2025 Collection

It’s no coincidence that charm necklaces are reappearing on the necks of young women in cities like New York, Paris and Tokyo. Speaking to The Post, Kelsey Armstrong, founder of the Brooklyn-based craft shop Haricot Vert, said the appeal of charms lies in their nostalgic pull: “it’s like a magical reminder of childhood.” And that may well be true.

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Above Chloé Spring Summer 2025 Collection

Because in truth, charms have never truly disappeared from the narrative of jewellery. Throughout the 20th century and into today, major maisons such as Bvlgari, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. have consistently featured charm designs in their collections. More recently, houses like Chanel, Chloé and Dior have brought charm necklaces back into focus with renewed creativity.

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Above On the Spring/Summer 2025 runways, designers offered new interpretations of the classic charm necklace
Tatler Asia
Above On the Spring/Summer 2025 runways, designers offered new interpretations of the classic charm necklace

On the Spring/Summer 2025 runways, designers offered new interpretations of the classic charm necklace. Chopova Lowena turned heads with chunky links and enamel strawberries, while Lacoste and Chloé embraced a more delicate expression, with fine chains strung with pearls and seashells, a quiet mix of refinement and natural whimsy.

Chanel, meanwhile, continued its exploration of nautical motifs in the Cruise 2024/25 collection, featuring necklaces crafted from metal, glass and pearls. This spirit carried through to the Cruise 2025/26 show at Lake Como, where charm designs were once again reimagined for a new era.

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Above Chanel Cruise 2024/25 Collection
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Above Chanel Cruise Collection 2025/26

So, the resurgence of charm necklaces in recent years cannot be dismissed as a mere trend. It reflects a deeper evolution in consumer sensibility and how beauty is expressed in the digital age. In a world shaped by social media and the culture of sharing, personality has become a silent language revealed in the smallest details, like the choice of a pendant.

A report by RetailBoss found that necklaces ranked second among the best-selling jewellery items of 2024. Within that, the rising popularity of charm necklaces and layered styles hints at a shift from understated minimalism to a more expressive, deliberate form of adornment.

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Above Gigi Hadid has worn charm necklaces at high-profile events
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Above Paris Hilton too has worn charm necklaces at high-profile events

The movement has gained further momentum thanks to modern-day muses. Images of Olivia Rodrigo and Gigi Hadid wearing charm necklaces at high-profile events quickly went viral, helping to reposition the charm as a desirable and expressive accessory.

In an age where every piece can carry a personal story, charms are securing their place in the jewellery boxes of fashion lovers, especially around celebratory moments or seasonal festivities.

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Above Charms are not merely decorative: they signal a thoughtful shift in how people choose and value their belongings (photo: Instagram/@livia)

Charms are not merely decorative: they signal a thoughtful shift in how people choose and value their belongings. As the idea of “owning” transforms into one of “experiencing,” consumers increasingly seek items with meaning. A pendant in the shape of a map, an initial, or a childhood memory can become a keepsake of life’s journey.

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