Chaumet’s New Diamond Cut Keeps Its Bee My Love Collection Buzzing
Is it possible to improve upon brilliance? Chaumet’s lapidary team thinks it has. Following three years of intensive research and development, the maison recently unveiled Taille Impératrice, a new diamond cut with a unique hexagonal shape and 88 facets. Its claim to fame over the well-loved brilliant cut is that it purportedly reflects more light. Brilliance is, after all, still not perfection.
Jean-Marc Mansvelt, Chaumet’s CEO, reveals what makes Taille Impératrice more brilliant than the brilliant. “For Taille Impératrice, the reflection of light takes place on the table and on all facets of the crown. This is not the case with the brilliant cut, which reflects light only off the table and the highest facets of the crown. The angle of the light reflection of the Taille Impératrice is also nearly 50 per cent wider. The light is therefore captured and returned in a greater number of directions, which is what creates this extraordinary brilliance.”
No doubt, mathematical precision has contributed to the beauty of the cut, but far from cold, calculated perfection, each stone also carries with it a human touch. “The cutting is essentially artisanal,” Mansvelt says. “Only the first phase in the cutting and preforming of the rough diamond involves the use of a scanner and a laser. After that, each facet is cut by hand.”
For its debut, the Taille Impératrice has found a perfect fit in Chaumet’s iconic Bee My Love collection. That its hexagonal shape is an impeccable match for the collection’s six-sided honeycomb motif was no coincidence.
“In the Bee My Love collection, we played a lot with variations on gold by offering different dimensions of the honeycomb cell, different colours of gold, and combining gold with pave and demi-pave. After having deeply explored goldsmithing, we sought to focus on the other fundamental savoir-faire of jewellery: the art of lapidary,” Mansvelt explains.
“With Taille Impératrice, the graphic aesthetic of Bee My Love and its honeycomb motif are now expressed in both metal and stone, the two treasures of Earth.”
The new cut shines in a number of new additions to the collection, including a three-stone ring, a Bee My Love Y necklace, and a bracelet. The first features a Taille Impératrice centre stone of approximately one carat flanked by two smaller diamonds of the same cut. The second expands on an existing design by adding two Taille Impératrice diamonds, one of 0.5 carats and the other of 1.5 carats as the drop end of the necklace. The last has seven Taille Impératrice diamonds, each of about 0.23 carats scattered down the length of the bracelet.
“By creating this new diamond cut, we are affirming that Chaumet cultivates both tradition and innovation,” Mansvelt enthuses. “It is a characteristic of a great maison that it be able to revisit its classics while offering new things.”