The first Asian man to take the lead at LVMH: Charles Leung and the art of leadership at Chaumet

As the first Asian CEO of an LVMH brand, what cultural elements from your background do you see that have helped connect and develop the Chaumet brand in the Southeast Asian market, especially in a country with strong Asian influence like Vietnam?

We often speak of differences, but in reality, there are always points of connection. France, for instance, represents exceptional craftsmanship, refined taste, and a discreet elegance. These values are universal, and people from all backgrounds can relate to them, regardless of whether I am French or not. I’ve spent many years studying and working within French companies, so I’ve come to understand French culture rather well.

That said, being Asian allows me to tell the French story in a way that resonates with Asian audiences. But it doesn’t stop there; I must also convey that story to customers in the Middle East, or in European countries like Germany or even Canada, where the traditional “French story” might not always captivate the same way.

Nowadays, when managing an international brand, French in origin or otherwise, you need to adopt a global mindset. But at the same time, it’s essential to remain deeply connected to the brand’s heritage and core identity.

It is known that you started out as a Bachelor of Literature. What in the world of words nurtured your passion for jewellery? And how is that expressed in your creative journey with Chaumet?

Jewellery and literature share something profound: they are both forms of storytelling. A truly remarkable piece of jewellery must carry an emotional narrative. The question is how that story is told through impeccable craftsmanship, inspired design and creative vision. That’s how Chaumet speaks to its customers: everything begins with a story told in the right way.

Someone once asked me: “Do you not feel out of place, being a writer in the jewellery industry?” In fact, my literary background is my greatest strength. Even Pierre Rainero, Director of Image & Heritage at Chaumet, once told me: “You are the best storyteller I have ever met.” I believe that comes from the way literature shaped my way of thinking.

Literature teaches us something essential: a story only moves people when it is told in a way that truly reaches them. The content may stay the same, but the delivery must adapt depending on culture, generation, gender or personal experience. Students of literature are trained to be discerning in how they choose words, perspectives and emotional tones.

That’s a lesson I’ve carried throughout my career in the jewellery world. Every Chaumet creation, whether a tiara or an engagement ring, needs to tell a story. Not only through form or metal, but through feeling, and a deep understanding of the human experience.

Nearly three decades in a single industry: does that make you feel like you have become an “invincible” expert, or are there still times when you face pressure, even scepticism?

Not quite. I’ve been in this industry for 29 years, and many expect that to mean I’ve become an “absolute expert.” But the truth is, I still feel there is so much to learn from both the past and the future.

Take AI and data, for example. These are tools we can explore, test, and use to better engage with our customers. Despite my long tenure in the jewellery world, I never believe I’m beyond learning. In fact, I feel incredibly fortunate to work in such a beautiful field where craftsmanship, artistry, emotion and business come together. There are countless stories in this industry, and I’m endlessly inspired by them. Every day brings something new. When I speak with colleagues, I often ask: “Who is this ring for? What is the occasion? Why was this design chosen?” And it’s these personal, everyday stories that truly fascinate me.

To be honest, I was not born into a family with a tradition in the jewellery industry. There was a time, early in my career, when I considered moving to another field. At the time, jewellery felt a little... old-fashioned. I imagined myself in fast-moving consumer goods or something more energetic. But after all these years, I’ve gathered a wealth of experience and become, in every sense, an insider. Now, when people come to me to mark the most meaningful milestones of their lives through jewellery, I know that this is where I belong. And the journey of telling those stories... is still far from over.

What has been your biggest concern since taking on this CEO role?

It’s... a battle against time.

I want to travel more to understand each market, to sit down with my team for deeper conversations that spark innovation, to spend more time listening to customers so I can truly understand them. But there are only 24 hours in a day, and the list of tasks is endless. That may well be the paradox of leadership: the more passionate you are, the less time you seem to have. I’ll admit I’m impatient, always wanting to move faster, to do more. But I’ve also come to learn that sometimes, it’s not the amount of time that matters, but the quality of each moment.

That’s why I’m learning to make the most of every minute: fewer meetings, but with greater intent; shorter trips, yet with deeper impact. Because for me, time is more than a number; it’s a chance to connect and create something meaningful.

If there was one thing you wish people understood more about Chaumet, what would it be?

What I hope, more than anything, is for people to see Chaumet not only as a jewellery house graced by prestige, but also as a living museum where each creation carries the breath of history.

Since 1780, when Napoleon crowned Josephine, we have etched our own legacy in gold and gemstone. But the Chaumet story is not a collection of relics frozen in time. It’s a continuum of creativity: from the invisible setting technique centuries ago, where stones appear to float, to the dazzling motion of “en tremblant” settings that shimmer with every movement. Each era brought its own language: the fluid curves of Art Nouveau like willow branches, the graphic geometry of Art Deco. But through all 244 years, the spirit of innovation has never waned, like our forebears who dared to pair pearls with steel during World War I, when much of Europe still clung to convention.

To understand Chaumet is not only to admire the brilliance of a diamond, but to listen to stories that transcend time: stories carefully kept, and always evolving.

Many brands talk about “creativity and innovation”. With a Maison with such a long and respected history like Chaumet, how do you personally approach the balance between tradition and innovation?

I think it’s quite similar to our own lives. We come from deeply traditional Asian cultures, yet we live in a rapidly changing world. We may lead modern lives, but that doesn’t mean we’ve lost our sense of identity. That’s very much how we approach Chaumet: we have a clear understanding of who we are. We take pride in our heritage, rooted in a Parisian spirit, refined taste, exceptional craftsmanship and a meticulous attention to detail, but we never express it in an ostentatious way.

We’re drawn to pieces that exude quiet sophistication, where the craftsmanship can be felt, yet the design remains easy to wear and suits a contemporary lifestyle. Increasingly, our customers are seeking versatility in their jewellery: something that works across different moments in life, or takes on fresh forms such as ear cuffs or unexpected designs that feel more current than traditional, formal earrings.

Read more: Bee de Chaumet and a “dialogue” with the next generation

Take Chaumet’s new rings, for example. They’re designed to be stackable, even across different collections. While the inspiration and design language date back more than 200 years, the way people wear them today shows how adaptable they’ve become.

A wedding ring doesn’t necessarily need to be worn on the ring finger; I usually wear mine on my thumb, which feels more modern. Or take a gold bracelet woven with cotton. Napoleon would never have worn it that way, but I do (laughs). Being cool and contemporary doesn’t mean following rules.

Through our conversation, I realised that you are a talented storyteller. You inspire not only through your brand, but also in how you lead. Can you share your leadership and working philosophy, what has shaped your style and how you inspire your team?

For me, leadership is not about fitting people into a predetermined mould, but about discovering and nurturing their individual strengths. I believe that when people are free to be themselves and contribute with genuine passion, they bring extraordinary value to the team as a whole.

Sometimes I see myself as a football coach building a strong team to win not just for the brand, but for the fans and shareholders as well. Some coaches, like Mourinho, have had great success, but when the team spirit fades, results often follow. I admire Pep Guardiola greatly, not only for what he’s achieved, but for how he builds a team: an ecosystem where seasoned stars and young talent thrive side by side. That is exactly the kind of culture I’m aiming to cultivate at Chaumet.

I may set the strategy, but it’s the team that brings it to life. A successful team isn’t just made of expensive stars, it relies on the harmony between its members. Sometimes the younger players surprise us the most, and it’s in those moments that they truly grow into their identities. That’s when I need to find the right ways to motivate them. I never forget that behind every success at Chaumet lies the work of hundreds of people, and it’s my responsibility to help each of them understand the value of their role in that collective journey.

If you could summarise it in just three words, how would you describe Chaumet’s beloved customers in Vietnam?

Discretion, quality, and refinement. These three words reflect a confident sense of aesthetic discernment.

Article published from the original article in Tatler Vietnam June 2025 issue

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