Chaumet and the love story of Napoleon and Josephine: When love inspires the legacy of haute joaillerie

Josephine used fashion and fine jewellery not merely for beauty, but to communicate stature and influence. At her coronation in 1804, she wore a diamond tiara—transforming it into a symbol of elegance and aspiration for brides and women attending the grand occasions of society (though such displays remained largely confined to the aristocracy). As a representative of the French Empire, Josephine is believed to have softened the rigid formalities of courtly dress, preferring instead to reflect her own free-spirited sensibility. She embraced life, love and memorable moments—always adorned with jewels set in remarkable stones.

A true arbiter of taste, Josephine remained fashion-forward throughout her life. She commissioned numerous bespoke gowns and supported prominent couturiers of her era, including Charles Frederick Worth, who would later dress Empress Eugénie and other European royals. Archival receipts held at the Bowes Museum reveal the extent of her sartorial spending. One dated 1 June 1872 records a purchase from Worth of five dresses—including one in lace and another in black velvet—alongside two scarves and five lace accessories, costing £11,184 at the time (approximately £114,000 today).

Josephine’s legacy in fashion and jewellery: From style icon to Chaumet’s eternal muse

Josephine was a familiar face at the finest fashion houses of Paris. She regularly visited milliners, dressmakers, glove ateliers and shoemakers to commission bespoke creations. Much like today’s tastemakers, Josephine played a pivotal role in defining style, helping to popularise the European Empire silhouette—marked by a waistline that sits just below the bust. This aesthetic lives on in period dramas, including Sense and Sensibility (1995) and Pride and Prejudice (2005). It also found its way onto the runway, when John Galliano reimagined it for Dior’s Spring–Summer 2005 Haute Couture collection. Her preference for this look is evident in contemporary portraits by artists such as Pierre-Paul Prud’hon, François Gérard and Andrea Appiani.

The Empire style celebrated a freer, more graceful form of femininity. It softened the figure without relying on corsetry, often featuring short sleeves and flowing skirts that allowed ease of movement. The aesthetic perfectly aligned with Napoleon’s vision for a renewed French republic—forward-thinking, yet steeped in classical beauty. Neoclassical dresses, typically fashioned from French silks in pale hues, conveyed an ethereal sensuality. Without the restriction of corsets, the garments allowed a natural expression of elegance—an early glimpse of liberation through fashion.

It would be no overstatement to call Josephine a true connoisseur of jewellery. Her passion gave rise to an extraordinary partnership. In 1802, Marie-Étienne Nitot, founder of Chaumet in 1780, was appointed her official jeweller. While his mission was to bring joy to the Empress, it also marked a strategic moment for France—helping to establish Paris as a burgeoning centre of fashion and fine jewellery under Napoleon’s rule.

Read more: What makes ceramic so attractive in the world of jewellery?

Nearly 200 years later, in 2010, Chaumet paid tribute to its first noble client with the launch of the Joséphine collection. This anniversary line, released to celebrate 230 years of the maison, drew deeply from the Empress’s legacy. The tiara, naturally, took centre stage—alongside Belle Époque motifs and archival sketches of necklaces, pendants and aigrettes dating from 1900 to 1915. The designs borrowed from neoclassical architecture, laurel wreaths and enduring symbols of imperial grace.

Aigrette Impériale, another Chaumet collection dedicated to Josephine, celebrates her innate elegance and quiet strength. From tiaras to brooches, necklaces, bracelets, earrings, rings and timepieces, each piece echoes her influence and spirit—feminine, self-assured and undeniably regal.

For Chaumet, jewellery has never been just a mark of affluence. It is an intimate vessel for emotion. Over the past 245 years, the maison has served as a storyteller—crafting love in its many forms through the language of gemstones. These are not limited to romantic love, but extend to pride, devotion and passion. A sapphire in a wedding piece might represent loyalty, while an emerald speaks of self-worth. Rubies, with their fire, symbolise passion; diamonds endure, a metaphor for eternity.

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