Louis Vuitton’s New High Jewellery Collection is an Opulent Tribute to Its Founder
A quick glance at Le Mythe necklace and one can instantly recognise that it is unmistakably a Louis Vuitton. For it features bejewelled interpretations of the French maison’s emblematic signatures such as the Damier motif and the Monogram flower across the necklace’s three tiers, forming a strikingly beautiful and versatile piece.
Presented in a three-row configuration, the masterpiece boasts three sugarloaf cabochons—a 19.70-carat Sri Lankan sapphire in royal blue; an 8.64-carat Colombian emerald in deep bright green; and a 7.11-carat Madagascan sapphire in blue—nestled among a bed of diamonds. It is only fitting that this necklace serves as the centrepiece of the maison’s Bravery high jewellery collection, which pays tribute to the 200th anniversary of the birth of the brand’s eponymous founder, Louis Vuitton himself.
“Young Louis’s journey is pivotal,” says Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director for watches and jewellery. “It’s a learning experience of life. The ideas of bravery, determination, boldness, curiosity about the world are ever-present in his life and career. That’s why this collection is called Bravery. [The word] is quite unusual in the world of high jewellery but it really is what we’re all about.”
The Bravery collection, which comprises 90 stunning pieces of jewellery, traces a young Vuitton’s journey across France from his native Jura to Paris, where he would establish the iconic fashion house. These pieces embody the spirit of the house, harking back to motifs created in the past even as the house continues to evolve in the future.
Amfitheatrof says that it goes beyond the mere idea of an anniversary collection. Instead, she describes Bravery as a deep dive into Vuitton’s incredible life as well as an homage to the icons of the house. Expect to spot a sprinkling of emblematic symbols, such as the V for Vuitton, LV Monogram-cut diamonds and trunk locks, nestled within the sparkling creations. “We have played around with the shapes [of the iconic symbols], aiming to give them a new dynamic, a precise energy that matches the style of our high jewellery.”
Set with an emerald‐cut sapphire, an LV Monogram Flower‐cut diamond, sapphires, rubies and diamonds, La Flêche necklace is said to be both a metaphor for founder Louis Vuitton’s journey and a visual interpretation of the V in his name
La Passion necklace in white gold set with rubies and diamonds
L’Élan Vital necklace in white gold set with diamonds
The collection consists of eight themes: La Constellation d’Hercule, L’Élan Vital, L’Aventure, La Flêche, Le Mythe, La Passion, Le Tumbler, and La Star du Nord—each one representing milestones in Vuitton’s journey. For instance, the aforementioned Le Mythe represents the pivotal moment when he decided to create a signature motif for his trunks, and patent the famous canvas, which covered the trunks. This effectively laid the foundation of the French luxury house.
Meanwhile, La Star du Nord depicts the metaphorical figure of “the good star”, a guiding light that led Vuitton throughout his journey, and that serves as a beacon of hope and inspiration for the future. This explains why the two-rowed white gold necklace is completely gem-set, with diamonds anchored by a diamond-studded knot shaped similarly to those on the interiors of the Louis Vuitton trunks. On the knot is a Monogram Flower, an exceptional 10.07-carat Type D IF Type 2A diamond accentuated by the LV Monogram Star cut. This superlative gem can be detached from the necklace and worn on its own as a ring, lending an additional touch of versatility.
La Star du Nord necklace is also accompanied by matching earrings, a ring and a bracelet.
From Design to Reality
Crafted by artisans in the house’s jewellery workshop at Place Vendôme, each masterpiece in the Bravery collection represents art in its highest form. Not a detail was spared in transforming Amfitheatrof’s graphic creations into masterpieces. Importantly, they are not only beautiful to look at but also supple to the touch, and sit comfortably on the human form.
These factors tick the right boxes off Amfitheatrof’s extensive checklist as she wants every woman to “feel the power and femininity” of the Bravery collection.
“I wanted the jewellery to be perfectly crafted to the smallest detail, and for as many models as possible to be transformable. The gold was worked to emulate the feel of fabric with numerous articulations so as to obtain amazingly supple, comfortable pieces.”
The quality of the gemstones used on each piece proved just as important. It took three years for the team to source worldwide for the sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds and gemstones featured on the pieces—all for the purpose of obtaining consistency in the richness of their colours.
Finally, these stones were enhanced using peerless savoir faire, with made-to-measure bezels and settings. This pays tribute to age-old jewellery-making craftsmanship, something that the Louis Vuitton workshops fastidiously adhere to while adding modern technology into the mix. That is why Bravery, like the Riders of the Knights and Stellar Times high jewellery collections from 2019 and 2020, respectively, is a balanced combination of tradition and modernity—a common trait that threads through all the product categories in the house that Monsieur Vuitton built. He would have been proud.