The newest volume of ‘Catwalk’ is here, and Ralph Lauren is the first American designer to be honoured in the series

During your research and unprecedented access to the archives, was there a specific collection or moment that surprised you?

I knew a lot about Ralph Lauren going into this project, and yes, still there were surprises! As a journalist, you’re typically working on a tight deadline, whether daily, weekly or monthly, so big-picture contextualisation over time can be more anecdotal than thorough. For Catwalk, I did an intense, deep dive of Ralph’s entire women’s runway career. What surprised me was the profound confirmation of his big-picture ethos, his consistency of vision and his ability to advance that vision in keeping with the culture, and making it all look seamless.

A more granular surprise: the sexiness! We don’t necessarily think of Ralph’s clothes as sexy, and in the va-voom sense, they’re not. But when you do the kind of perusal that I did, you see a whole range. The sensuality runs throughout but I’ll cite some specific shows that resonated strongly with me in that regard: Sensual, 30s-inspired siren gowns and provocative, gender-twisting white tie and tails, Fall 1981. Saucy, midriff-baring shrunken top-and pants looks, Spring 2000. Chic, racy suitings inspired by Ralph’s car collection, Fall 2005. And oh, yes, Cindy Crawford in a bright red ski unitard, Fall 1991.

Also, something unheralded and important to note: Today, sustainability is all the rage. Brands love to publicise their environmental programs. Celebrities love wearing vintage on the red carpet. Well, from Day One—as in back in the ’70s—Ralph took the position that he made clothes to last, not only from season to season, but from generation to generation. In numerous interviews he says things like, “I want my clothes to look better next year than they do now,” and, “I never want to be in fashion, because if you’re in fashion, you’re going to be out of fashion.” That’s just one of several instances in which Ralph was miles ahead of the trend. To him it was neither trend nor bandwagon. It was ethos.

This is the first time an American fashion house has been included in the Thames & Hudson Catwalk series alongside European giants like Chanel and Dior. What do you believe this inclusion says about the global legacy of American luxury and Ralph Lauren’s specific vision?

The inclusion of Ralph Lauren in Thames & Hudson's important Catwalk series is hugely, symbolically significant for American fashion; it elevates the image of the entire industry. That said, I personally believe that Ralph Lauren merits inclusion in the series, and Thames & Hudson has included him in it, not because he’s an American designer, but because he and the brand he has built and nurtured so masterfully for nearly 60 years possess an import and resonance globally on par with the others houses of the series—Dior, Chanel, Prada, etc.

As the author, how did you balance the task of documenting nearly 60 years of history while capturing that elusive, consistent way of living that Ralph Lauren pioneered?

This happened rather organically. I looked at all the shows and read something about them before I started writing, but I did the in-depth research and wrote about the collections in a linear fashion, earliest to latest, of course, drawing on my firsthand knowledge of the second half Ralph’s ongoing career, the shows I covered. I thus had ample points of reference and could identify the essential tenets and recurring themes and references.

The structure of the book is a show-by-show assessment, akin to reviews but with the benefit of ample hindsight for context. So as I went along, I could connect the dots from this season to that, from year to year and decade to decade. Then, when I had done the season-by-season examination, I wrote a rather lengthy introduction with the goal of distilling Ralph’s personal story and contextualising his work. And when you reference “60 years of history,” you are absolutely right. Fashion can’t be read or understood independent of its time. While this book is about Ralph Lauren—his story, his work, his history—and for all of his remarkable consistency over time, we do see him adjusting and adapting to changes in the culture.

What can readers expect to learn about the man behind the brand that hasn't been captured in previous biographies or retrospective books?

Ralph Lauren is not someone who loves to talk about himself. Despite all the interviews he's done over the years and the coverage he's gotten, he really is a very private person who values family above all else, and who prefers to spend his spare time with his family. Even in the ‘70s, when Studio 54 was a second home to many New York designers, not so, Ralph Lauren. He's a homebody at heart and private, to boot. He communicates through his work. He loves to say that he takes a narrative, cinematic approach, a storyteller’s approach, to both his runways and his advertising. He views his models not as mannequins pushing clothes, but as characters in richly crafted storylines.

As such, I think the best way to understand Ralph Lauren is through his runway work. Through it we can see what inspires him—evocative locations; heroic personas; utilitarian clothes, designed for a purpose; sport, and always, his forever muse, his wife, Ricky. It's through the work that Ralph shares his worldview. In that context, I think readers can learn a great deal about the man by studying his clothes and the way he presents them on the runway. It really is the work of a seasoned storyteller—show, don't tell. He shows us a lot.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk: The Complete Collections will be available in leading bookstores worldwide and online retailers starting May 7, 2026

NOW READ

Behind the Brand: The Mineraw relaunches with a new vision for clean, emotionally intelligent skincare

A star is born: Dior’s Rose Star blazes under Francis Kurkdjian’s vision

Continuing La Prairie’s legacy of precision and luxury, CEO Estelle Létang shares her vision