Cover Photo: Instagram/@munimalism
Photo: Instagram/@munimalism
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From coconut husks and sappan wood to rambutan peels, local brands are using the natural dyes to make garments that are chic and creative
Synthetic dyes are one of the biggest pollutants on Earth, creating millions of tonnes of wastewater each year. Their metal components are non-biodegradable and extremely toxic to the environment and ecosystem—causing allergies, skin irritations and poisoning aquatic life.
A rising natural alternative is plant-based, botanical dyes which is derived from whole or parts of a plant. For instance, lavender produces dye from their leaves, whilst the dye from avocado is extracted from their skin and seed. Other common dyes are extracted from ketapang leaves, jelawai skin, tegaran wood and premium indigo. Antimicrobial and hypoallergenic, they work well to protect waterways as well as our skin.
The botanical dyeing process, which can take up to several weeks, also contributes to a wider discussion about sustainability in the fashion industry because it encourages both producers and consumers to slow down and be more mindful of waste. Visually, botanical dyes have a tonality and a luminescence which garments using synthetic dyes tend to fall flat from.
Read more: 7 eco-friendly Malaysian fashion brands to know
In Malaysia, the practice of using botanical dyes is still niche but more and more homegrown brands are now paving the way with beautiful, eco-friendly products. Get to know them below.
1. Munimalism
Munimalism founder Munir Osman was inspired to create his own pieces after stumbling upon natural-dyed fabrics in Ubud, Bali. Struck by how subtle and imperfect the colours were, these fabrics's raw aesthetics reminded him of his childhood home, which was filled with artisanal pieces from around the world.
"From a young age, I've always appreciated things with a lot of charm and character; botanical dyed fabrics has a lot of that. I love the way it speaks to you spiritually. There's something emotionally rewarding about making colourful things from nature with your bare hands," says Munir.
But it's not always about achieving the deepest shade. At Munimalism, you can find timeless pieces such as calico knot pouches, hand-dyed cotton tees, and linen journal covers, that honour the whole handcrafting process, from artisans and farmers who work hard behind the scenes.
You can find them in select stores: Unplug at Bangsar Village 2, Ilaika at Taman Paramount, and Muni Store at Malaysia Grand Bazaar.
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2. Pleigraund
Pleigraund founder Lee Jye Miin, believes that fast fashion is an unsustainable system of overproduction. "No matter which industry we are in, I think the problem still lies in our capitalist society. We have to slow down our consumption. We've got to learn to add value with our values through our purchase," she says.
Instead, her fashion brand promotes mindful consumption with its clothing and accessories, hand-dyed with natural indigo derived from the indigofera plant. "Less mindless hustle, more mindful magic," she asserts. "We can go to the market and get chemical powder and make blue straight away. Synthetic indigo is everywhere and it can dye maybe 50 pieces in a day. With natural indigo, you can probably make two to seven pieces because it has less yield than synthetic indigo due to impurities."
For Lee, the dyeing process is meditative as well. "I enjoy all of the steps and processes to achieve the precious blue, especially seeing the surprise as the design is revealed at last. The attention and the time spent on hand-dye, it’s all about the act of creation. It’s telling myself to enjoy the blue pleasure coming from mother nature."
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3. TwoFrens
Using an array of earthy ingredients such as sweet potato peels, black beans, assorted flowers and chrysanthemums, TwoFrens is another homegrown brand doing its part to lessen the load on the environment.
Spearheaded by two friends, Shuway and Shook Qing, their hope is to promote the local workforce and environment by giving waste a second life. Their natural dyes come from upcycling expired produce and garden waste from local florists and their own backyard. They also repurpose tea leaves, rosebuds, roselles and blueberries from local kombucha businesses.
Read more: Home Tour: An eco-retreat in Serendah, Malaysia, built by an architect for her parents
4. Yann Indigo Dye Room
Above Photo: Instagram/Yann Indigo Dye Room
Photo: Instagram/Yann Indigo Dye Room
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Started by Penang-born artist Kam Woei Yann, Yann Indigo Dye Room is an artisan fashion and home decor business which uses natural indigo and Japanese Shibori manual resist dyeing technique. Its process allows free-flow expression of ideas and feeling, creating patterns on fabric that are fluid and unique.
"Natural shibori indigo dyed works are timeless. Home decor and fashion pieces made with them stay in the wardrobes for many years," says Yann.
Yann Indigo Dye Room also holds Shibori and Indigo dyeing workshops and pop-up shops every now and then. Follow Yann on Instagram or Facebook to find out more.
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5. Batik Boutique
Partnering with batik artisans across Malaysia, Batik Boutique is doing its part to help labourers and the environment, providing fair wages and working conditions, alongside skills training to marginalised communities.
Each piece of fabric is hand-blocked and hand-painted, using the ancient art of batik which involves creating patterns of the fabric and wax resist dyeing applied to whole, fibrous fabrics. The Shibori Mangosteen products, which include shirts and kimonos, are made using mangosteen tree leaves.
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6. Bohomys
Bohomys is a social enterprise that started during the pandemic. Stylish and sustainable, all products are natural and hand-dyed, where part of the profits goes to sponsoring training for youths, giving them income and entrepreneurial opportunities. From tie-dye pareo dresses to cutlery pouches, Bohomys is where creativity flourish.
Follow Bohomys on Instagram to find out more about their pop-ups and workshops.
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7. Dunia Motif
With an MA in Textile Design, Ummi Junid's mission is to share her love on slow and sustainable crafted processes to go beyond the current 'take-make-waste' industrial model. Creating dyes from her kitchen waste, Dunia Motif is a small-scale business project with a focus on community education, and Ummi's labour of love.
She started with eucalyptus and cabbage leaves before exploring native ingredients such as indigo, ketapang and mango leaves. Most of her products are handmade in small batches by herself, which includes the wash-out Origami grocery bag, Ranggi pouches, Kupas apron and Belantara napkin set.
Other than that, Ummi also hosts exhibitions and explorative workshops. Read about her projects 'After Tea' and '(Un)wasted' on Dunia Motif's blog.
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8. Nysakapas
Located in a small village in Kampung Seradah Terengganu, Nysakapas was created in 2017 by Haniza Hisham with the aim of preserving the Malaysian art of traditional batik making, whilst bringing new meaning to art. Brought up in Kuala Lumpur with a background in architecture and fashion, Haniza teaches her artisans how to make batiks on her own.
In 2021, Nysakapas launched its natural dyed batik collection, 'Batik Rahsia Alam' made from from local plant resources and natural beeswax. The Furukushi Lipat Bag is made from home-cooked Coconut Coir dye and inspired by the Japanese traditional art of wrapping. Other natural dyed batik products, such as the Kain Batik Lipas, are made from Coconut and Betel Nuts.
Nysakapas is available on the official website and Unplug store at Bangsar Village 2. You can also visit their Terrenganu studio, Rumoh Batik Nysakapas.
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