Cover Her Majesty gives a tour of the Pahang Pavilion, sharing stories behind garments and fabrics (Photography: Daniel Adams)

In this exclusive interview, Tatler gets an insight into the Malaysian queen's tireless work in promoting cultural crafts, including the Royal Pahang Weave, on a local and international stage

Her Majesty Queen Azizah of Malaysia arrives at the Pahang Pavilion, an exhibition showcasing her personal collection of garments and fabrics, at the second iteration of CIMB’s Artober Art & Soul art fair. As she walks through the various displays, she recalls with impressive detail the story behind each piece. From the now-iconic modern kurung she wore during her installation as Raja Permaisuri Agong of Malaysia in 2019 to the deep yellow dress she wore at the recent coronation of King Charles III at Westminster Abbey, crafted by inmates of Penor Prison, the queen’s deep interest in the subject of craftwork shines through as she describes the intricacies of creating each tenun garment, down to the careful embroidery of royal crests.

Tenun means “to weave” in the Malay language, and commonly refers to the silk weaves of Pahang known as the Royal Pahang Weave or Tenun Pahang Diraja. Under the patronage of Her Majesty Queen Azizah of Malaysia, the fabric is now considered an official national textile to be worn in the palace and at official government functions.

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Above Her Majesty Queen Azizah of Malaysia

Her devotion to art and traditional crafts began in her childhood, where she would participate in crafts and cooking workshops held by lecturers in
the local colleges, she explains. It was a love that was nurtured by her parents.

She fondly recounts her interactions with the late artist Ramli Malek, known for his abstract paintings depicting village life, as well as his innovation with batik design and production: “On a visit to Kuantan, Pahang for a polo match, my father became acquainted with Ramli Malek, who wanted to study art in England. My father bought his entire collection—30 pieces of art—which enabled him to pursue that dream. Whenever he came back to Malaysia, Ramli Malek would teach us how to draw and tell us all about his experimentation with batik. I used to look forward to his visits.” 

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Above The Pahang Pavilion features the queen’s personal collection of garments and fabrics
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Above A close-up on the embroidered crest on garments for official events
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Her upbringing left a lasting impression on the importance of preserving the Malay cloth. In 2005, she led an initiative under the Royal Pahang Weave Foundation to revive the weaving industry, which was on a steep decline with a mere 15 weavers left, mostly in Kampung Pulau Keladi in Pekan. The programme involved educating inmates at Bentong and Penor prison in the traditional weaving techniques to produce patterns designed by Her Majesty. They were also encouraged to be innovators in the space, moving beyond conventional ideas and expressing themselves artistically through the craft. They were paid for their work and offered employment under the queen’s social enterprise, Cheminahsayang, upon their release. Today, these prisoners make up more than half of the 300 specialist weavers in the country.

“As the Royal patron of all prison crafts in Malaysia, I have had the privilege of working with prisoners to preserve our local crafts. These are talented individuals who have so much to offer,” she enthuses. “In fact, I made it a point to include Malaysian prison inmates in our first exhibition at London Craft Week.”

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Tatler Asia
Above Her Majesty Queen Azizah of Malaysia

As the Royal patron of all prison crafts in Malaysia, I have had the privilege of working with prisoners to preserve our local crafts. These are talented individuals who have so much to offer.

- Raja Permaisuri Agong Tunku Azizah Aminah Maimunah Iskandariah -

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Above Traditional textiles from Her Majesty's collection, some of which are woven by prison inmates

The prestigious London Craft Week celebrates exceptional craftsmanship from around the world. For two years, Her Majesty has spearheaded Malaysia’s participation with beautiful displays and live demonstrations of traditional crafts; the inaugural exhibition was dedicated to prison- woven tenun and the most recent exhibition brought together craft practices from all over the country, including telepuk (textile gilding), songket (brocade), and tribal beading. “I wanted to highlight their unique story and show the world a rehabilitation programme that prepares prisoners for a hopeful, optimistic journey into the real world by giving them something to fall back on,” she says.

From May 13-19, 2024, the Malaysian Pavilion, co-organised by the Royal Pahang Weave Foundation and Kraftangan Malaysia and patronised by Her Majesty, at London Craft Week 2024 will continue to promote local crafts.

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By raising the profile of Malaysia’s rich heritage in crafts, Her Majesty aims to “foster interest especially among young people” and inspire them to get involved with the movement of preservation, whether it’s learning or documenting the traditional techniques or even incorporating heritage fabrics into their daily wardrobe. She comments that it is crucial for the work of preserving crafts in Southeast Asia to be carried on to the next generation.

“We have seen the efforts of the Malaysian government in promoting the batik fabric over the last thirty years; it would not be where it is today without exposing it to young people and renewing their interest in the craft,” she asserts.

That is where parents can also play a part in opening the eyes of their children to the world of crafts. “My 21-year-old daughter (Her Royal Highness Tengku Puteri Jihan Azizah Athiyatullah) grew up watching me and the work that I do. She is pursuing an arts degree, with a major in textile arts. I’m so proud of her and I hope she will lead the way in this endeavour.

“I spoke to her just last night about producing a single piece for her final university project that honours all the different weaving traditions of each region in Malaysia. I recently concluded the Kembara Kenali Borneo tour of Sabah and Sarawak and saw firsthand all the beautiful crafts they have to offer. Perhaps she will take my suggestion; we’ll see!” she laughs.

In her two decades at the helm of the Royal Pahang Weave Foundation, Queen Azizah’s impact has been felt deeply by the local and international community, and she intends to double down on her commitments to the industry as she prepares for a new chapter in her royal duties. She imparts words of encouragement to Malaysians to explore their local heritage: “These are the ties that bind us together as a nation.”

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Daniel Adams

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