Cover Rizman Ruzaini’s spring-summer 2025 show at Dubai Fashion Week 2024 (Photo: Rizman Ruzaini)
Rizman Ruzaini’s spring-summer 2025 show at Dubai Fashion Week 2024 (Photo: Rizman Ruzaini)
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Tatler Malaysia had the pleasure of attending the Rizman Ruzaini show at Dubai Fashion Week 2024—here are our thoughts on the collection
It’s not often that a major fashion capital invites an international newcomer to close its fashion week with its debut show. And to think that it was our very own Malaysian designers, Rizman Nordin and Ruzaini Jamil, who made this incredible feat happen at Dubai Fashion Week last year—alongside the likes of Naomi Campbell, no less—is certainly nothing short of monumental.
Read more: Dubai Fashion Week: Naomi Campbell closes Malaysian couture brand Rizman Ruzaini’s show
Since then, the designer duo has become one of the crown jewels of the Dubai Fashion Week calendar, having opened the fall-winter 2024/25 season in February, and most recently, spring-summer 2025 on September 1, with their latest collection, Mustika.
One thing about Rizman Ruzaini is that they love a good story, and as the name reveals, the spring-summer 2025 collection finds its muse in Mustika, a character from the classic 1999 film, Perempuan Melayu Terakhir (The Last Malay Woman). Delving deeper into the nostalgic theme, creative director Ruzaini Jamil took cues from his late grandmother’s elegant style in the 1950s, paying homage to the kebayas and batik sarongs she wore with grace whilst tapping into a broader cultural narrative that celebrated Malaysian identity.
Don't miss: The story behind Naomi Campbell’s showstopping Rizman Ruzaini dress at Dubai Fashion Week
Circling back to Perempuan Melayu Terakhir, the film explores the complex interplay between preserving cultural heritage and adapting to the winds of change in modern society. Amid this ideological tug-of-war is Mustika, who embodies the best of both worlds, illustrating that the past and the present, and even the future, can coexist and enrich one another.
On the runway, Mustika is portrayed by the kebaya, a garment steeped in centuries of history, continuously evolving in a myriad of styles without losing its essence as a timeless expression of cultural heritage and identity. From the colour palette down to the silhouettes and the use of materials, one by one, each look captured the beauty of embracing change whilst cherishing tradition.
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The collection opened with a range of refined, structured silhouettes in navy blue and tan brown, with lace detailing and pleats adding a softer and lighter contrast to the defined edges. The sharp, crisp lines echo the unyielding and rigid nature of being deeply ingrained in strict traditional values (like Engku Leh, portrayed by Azri Iskandar, in the film), but they also serve as the sartorial representation of how our cultural heritage is the backbone of our identities, the building blocks that shape who we are. Simultaneously, the delicate elements speak to the comfort and nurturing aspects of cultural belonging, providing us with a sense of self and connection to our roots.
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As the collection progressed, radiant hues and striking embellishments began to emerge, signalling a shift towards modernity. The initial structured forms gradually morphed into more fluid and contemporary silhouettes, mirroring the journey of self-discovery and cultural evolution in a globalised world.
See also: Fearless forties: Rizman Nordin’s heartfelt 40th birthday celebration
We saw an eclectic mix of glamorous gowns, exquisite tailoring, geometric proportions, bodysuits, cascading fabrics, and denims on the runway, some distinctly modern, whilst others adopted modernised elements of the kebaya and sarong. These pieces elicit the spirit of reinvention, a renaissance of sorts, centred around the freedom and creativity of contemporary fashion.
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Of course, even in a modern context, cultural roots are invaluable, as the film invites us to reflect. Rizman Ruzaini’s homage to their cultural heritage was further enriched by the batik, incorporated into the collection in tambour beading and intricate machine embroidery that introduces a fresh and elevated take on the traditional motif, preserving the artistry of batik whilst allowing it to evolve and shine within the current fashion landscape.
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The show closed with a magnificent bridal look, culminating not only the collection, but also the designers’ vision of cultural resilience, artistic reinterpretation, and the timeless elegance that bridges past and present. Reminiscent of the kebaya, the bridal ensemble was a two-piece gown that takes on unique elements of the garment from various cultures and its evolution throughout the years, presented in a way that was quintessentially Rizman Ruzaini.
In the grand scheme of things, Rizman Ruzaini’s spring-summer 2025 collection is a sartorial extension of the themes explored in Perempuan Melayu Terakhir, expressing that tradition and modernity need not be at odds; instead, they can flourish together in harmony. The narrative aside, like every collection the designer duo unveils, Mustika also raises the bar in terms of craftsmanship. Every stitch, every bead, and every motif was placed with intention and imbued with meaning, and that level of care was evident in every piece.
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Credits
Images: Rizman Ruzaini
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About
Phyll Wu is the Style Writer of Tatler Malaysia. Based in Kuala Lumpur, she's an avid fashion geek who loves all things beauty, pop-culture, and film.
