Cover Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2023 (Photo: Getty Images)

Keep up with all the best looks and new trends from the menswear fashion shows in Milan and Paris

Men’s Fashion Week has returned with full force for the Spring/Summer 2023 season. 

In Milan, things get exciting as Versace hosts its first physical men’s show in years, joining luxury fashion brands like Fendi and Prada in offering their take on summertime dressing. We’ll have even more to add to our wishlists as the shows continue in Paris, where it’s business as usual for big-name houses like Hermès, Dior and Louis Vuitton. Japanese label Comme des Garçons will also be joining the roster, as is cult French designer Marine Serre, who will be making her menswear week debut. In short, there’s plenty to look forward to. Keep up with the latest trends from the runway as we highlight the best looks, right here.

Read more: 6 Trends We’re Loving From Men’s Fashion Week 2022

Hermès

Easy, breezy dressing was the order of the day for the Hermès man. Menswear designer Véronique Nichanian was inspired by lightness and the natural world, creating a holiday-ready collection of sunshine-hued sweaters and windbreakers, camp shirts and tanks featuring striking, marine-inspired motifs, and pastel-hued bucket hats. On his next vacation, the Hermès man can also choose to pack his essentials away in roomy canvas tote bags adorned with palm trees.

Read more: Watch the Hermès Men’s Spring/Summer 2023 Show

Louis Vuitton

There was plenty to draw attention away from the clothes at Louis Vuitton’s latest menswear show, including a marching band, a live performance by Kendrick Lamar on the front row, and the giant playground that served as the setting of it all. But these details tied back to the heart of the collection: Virgil Abloh.

It was the late designer who celebrated playfulness and child-like creativity at the historic Maison, and on the runway we saw echoes of his experimentations: tie-dyed pieces with colourful shearling pockets, jackets whose sleeves bloomed with knit floral appliques, asymmetrical leather shirts with wavy plackets,  a suit covered in 3D paper planes and even a backpack that resembled a stereo sound system (Abloh moonlighted as a DJ).

The French fashion house was no doubt inspired by Abloh’s designs at Off-White, too, with some looks entering gender-bending territory via sweeping skirts. For the finale, models strutted out holding a rainbow flag—less so in honour of Pride Month than as a nod to Abloh’s first, and most memorable, collection for Louis Vuitton.

Dior

Gardens are significant to the house of Dior. There is Granville, where founder Christian Dior looked to his mother’s rose garden for inspiration for his couture creations. Dior Men designer Kim Jones also admired the Charleston Farmhouse in Sussex, the country home of English artists Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant that played host to members of the Bloomsbury Set.

Both houses were recreated along the runway of the Dior menswear show, which presented an outdoorsy collection marrying elegant tailoring with technical outerwear in the soft, feminine hues that Monsieur Dior favoured. There were also hints of the clothes featured Duncan’s paintings—some of which Jones owns—and wardrobe, including straw hats and sweaters. This season’s must-haves? The jackets crafted with the iconic cannage motif from the Lady Dior handbag.

Loewe

Nature also reigned supreme at Loewe, which showcased coats, jackets, jeans and sneakers with blades of grass growing out of them. These were planted with the expertise of Spanish fashion designer Paula Ulargui Escalona, illustrating Loewe creative director Jonathan Anderson’s natural inspirations. But Anderson was also thinking of technology, evident in T-shirts, coats and masks embedded with screens displaying sunsets and the flight of birds. “It’s this idea of how nature can lead technology, or technology can lead nature,” explained Anderson.

Kenzo

As the pennants from the fashion show’s teaser suggested, Nigo’s second Kenzo collection was inspired by collegiate dressing. The youthful designs, a continuation of the “Real to Wear” collection he debuted in January, fused preppy silhouettes and archival Kenzo prints, including logos and animal motifs. Just as eye-catching were the nautical looks, such as striped blue shirts and sailor uniforms. The latter was adapted to become the Japanese school uniform for girls, which was how Nigo tied his Asian heritage together with the Western silhouettes featured on the show. That East-meets-West aesthetic, spearheaded by Kenzo Takada himself, is clearly still alive at his fashion house.

Read more: Watch the Kenzo Spring/Summer 2023 Show

Prada

Choices are what men today have plenty of when dressing up, and they were the central focus of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ latest collaboration. “So much that is the base is really a conceptual choice—a coat, jeans, a suit,” said Mrs. Prada. “They appear simple but are the result of a process, of choice—there are hundreds of coats, why is this the right one? It is a combination of a long process of design and decision, and then of instinct.” In other words, style. Instead of advocating for a single look, the collection she and Simons showcased within a paper house at Fondazione Prada offered choices in the deceptively simple form of streamlined suiting, leather jackets, denim shirts and jeans, as well as more playful garments like gingham coats, vibrant striped knits, and short shorts.

Fendi

Just as her Fendi colleague Kim Jones had been inspired by California cool for his latest Dior Men’s outing, Silvia Venturini Fendi looked to the carefree wardrobes of surfers and skaters to embody her message of leisure for the summer: “This is a collection dedicated to this desire of spare time, because we all discovered that we like to spend it cultivating ourselves and our interests.” Denim—frayed, fringed, or patched together—was the material of choice for the collection, and baggy shirts and pants highlighted the nonchalant attitude of the Fendi man. Still, he was no slouch in the style department, as his outfits were elevated with craft-focused pieces like an embroidered knit top, a jacket lined with strips of shearling, or any one of the collection’s textured Peekaboo bags.

Don't miss: Watch the Fendi Men’s Spring/Summer 2022 Show Live

Versace

Returning to its scenic courtyard in Via Gesù, Versace unveiled a menswear collection that mixed business with pleasure. For the former, the Italian brand dressed the sons of erstwhile supermodels like Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni in striped tailoring and silky overcoats, which later looks shed to reveal more sensual summer staples. That includes body-skimming cut-out tops, see-through knits, slouchy, slashed leather ensembles, and neon-hued camp shirts embellished with the faces of Greek statues discovered in the ruins of Pompeii. The Versace man will be impossible to miss on his next summer holiday.

Celine

Hedi Slimane made a return to the Palais de Tokyo, 20 years after he showed his second Dior Homme collection at the Paris art museum. While back then he showed streamlined, minimal tailoring, this season he returned to the signatures he established during his Saint Laurent reign: black leather jackets and pants fit for rockstars like Alex Kapranos and Miles Kane, who sat on the front row; Americana-inspired fringed denim vests and faded jeans; and sequinned ensembles for the likes of K-pop superstars Lisa of Blackpink and BTS’ V to consider for their next, raved-about appearance at a Celine fashion show.

Read more: The Most Stylish Asian Celebrities at Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023

Givenchy

You might be mistaken in thinking that a hot bod is a prerequisite to wear Givenchy’s latest menswear collection. The French fashion brand’s Paris Fashion Week presentation had shirtless models walking on water in edgy silhouettes peeled off the streets, Matthew M. Williams’ favourite source of inspiration. Some looked menacing in shirts with necklines that morphed into a balaclava, while others were the picture of leisure wearing Givenchy-branded tracksuits paired with logo boxers. There was a hint of sportiness in looks with hooded technical jackets and low-rise biker pants slung with Western belts, and Williams again dabbled in his signature minimalist tailoring, sans shirts but with slashed pants. But what tied them all together was an insouciant attitude—and that’s what you’ll need to look cool in these clothes.

Moschino

For years, women have enjoyed the spotlight at Moschino’s theatrical fashion shows. This season, however, creative director Jeremy Scott unveiled his first standalone men’s collection for the Italian fashion brand—and he didn’t disappoint. His show at the Fonderia Macchi paid tribute to fashion illustrator Tony Viramontes, whose artworks of steely-eyed, strong-jawed faces appeared across tailoring, workwear and leather pieces. Some outfits echoed the silhouettes of the Buffalo Boys fashion movement of the ‘80s, with bold, colourful brushstrokes adorning them to create a playful, trompe l’oeil trick that Scott has pulled before.

Zegna

For Zegna’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, Alessandro Sartori did what he does best collection: creating elegant, high-quality but supremely wearable clothing for the modern man. These clothes, unveiled at the very first Zegna Wool Mill to be constructed at the heart of the lush Oasi Zegna, came in Sartori’s signature, soothing palette of neutrals like grey, brown, dusty pink, but there were even some daring pops of yellow seen on the oversized shirts and luxuriantly wide pants. The colours flowed together as seamlessly as the separates of Zegna’s leisurewear looks, which were crafted from technical feather-light fabrics like rubberised nylon and leather, and even recycled paper. Zegna also hopped onto a menswear trend that we’ve been seeing in the last couple of season by offering its very own terry cloth clothing.

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