Cover Diptyque opened its doors in Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris in 1961
Diptyque opened its doors in Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris in 1961
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Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, we discover how a concept store born from an insatiable curiosity for beauty, evolved into the iconic French name
Diptyque, a renowned French brand, is often associated primarily with candles and fragrances. Surprisingly, its origin story diverges from the typical pursuit of a fragrance empire. In fact, it can be considered one of the world’s first concept stores. Established in 1961, the inaugural boutique on Boulevard Saint-Germain in Paris came to life through the creative minds of Christiane Montadre- Gautrot, an interior designer, Yves Coueslant, a set designer, and Desmond Knox-Leet, a painter.
Initially, as recounted by Elesabeth Boucheron, Diptyque’s archivist, their merchandise comprised fabrics of their own design, but it swiftly expanded to encompass eclectic discoveries from their worldwide journeys, spanning from luxurious textiles and linens to playthings and tableware, in addition to rare incense and colognes from the United Kingdom.
In the words of Boucheron, their journey gradually transformed their business into a concept store where they introduced items they cherished for their intrinsic beauty. “Little by little, they started with a concept store. They brought in things they would buy just because they liked it and because they thought it was beautiful,” she says. Their only limits were an unquenchable curiosity and an acute sense of aesthetics. This unconventional “bazaar” rapidly evolved into a must-visit destination, celebrated for its fabrics and its treasure trove of curiosities.
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Yves Coueslant, Christiane Montadre-Gautrot and Desmond Knox Leet, founders of Diptyque
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According to Boucheron, this gradual evolution eventually led them to create something uniquely their own. In 1963, they unveiled their first trio of candles: Aubépine, Cannelle, and Thé (Hawthorn, Cinnamon, Tea). Each founder contributed distinct elements, from Diptyque’s early fabric designs based on the Roman-inspired Prétorien pattern (which still graces the brand’s iconic oval logo) to the distinctive, meandering names that adorn Diptyque’s signature black and white labels. These elements merge to shape the unique aroma each candle exudes.
As the brand commemorates the 60th anniversary of its iconic candles, those original three scents remain available, now accompanied by an expansive collection of 49 distinct fragrances. These scents serve as an olfactory voyage, beckoning you to distant lands or evoking cherished memories.
Candle makers measure the length of the wick by hand
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What’s particularly remarkable is the consistency in candle production over the past six decades. Crafting each candle spans two days and involves 10 distinct stages, most of which are still carried out by hand. Skilled artisan candle makers blend the finest wax and perfume oils for each scent, meticulously centre and straighten the wick, and carefully balance the concentration of fragrance to ensure optimal diffusion of scent. By combining various waxes of different textures and densities, the process guarantees that the wax burns perfectly (up to 60 hours, depending on its size). The process includes warming the jar, pouring in the melted wax to prevent crystallisation, topping off the candle after cooling, straightening the wick three times, smoothing the surface, and concluding with a final, handcrafted touch.
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Above Fabrice Pellegrin, a perfumer with DSM- Firmenich
Fabrice Pellegrin, a perfumer with DSM- Firmenich
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Beyond the artisanal craftsmanship, it’s the scent itself that distinguishes Diptyque’s candles. The brand’s nose, Fabrice Pellegrin, a perfumer with DSM- Firmenich, operates from a villa perched on a hill in Grasse, the world’s perfume capital. Pellegrin, one of the three expert noses used by the brand, hails from a lineage deeply intertwined with perfumery (his father was a perfumer and grandmother a jasmine-picker). He has crafted scents for various couture houses, including Diptyque, and had the privilege of personally knowing the founders, Montadre-Gautrot and Coueslant, before their passing.
Above Diptyque focuses on the use of natural ingredients for the candles
Diptyque focuses on the use of natural ingredients for the candles
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Pellegrin shared, “Most of the perfumes that I have created with Diptyque are based on the stories told to me by Yves and Christiane. When I want to interpret and reflect these stories in my perfume, I always find the natural ingredient that can make the story last over time, so I choose the ingredient, the note for this perfume, and create the scent.”
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Above The iconic Diptyque trio, Aubépine, Cannelle, and Thé
The iconic Diptyque trio, Aubépine, Cannelle, and Thé
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However, creating a scent for a brand like Diptyque can be a challenging feat, especially considering the intricacies of making both a perfume and a candle. As Pellegrin elaborates, “When you create a candle for Diptyque, it has to smell just as good when it’s not burning. You have to find ingredients that will be well diffused when heated.” The difficulty is ensuring that the scent remains consistent when lit, as some materials change when exposed to heat. Through decades of research and experience, Pellegrin expertly selects natural ingredients (given the brand’s commitment to using no synthetic fragrances in their candles) and harmoniously blends them to bring his vision of a scent to life.
Above The scents are usually inspired by stories of the founders
Above Diptyque candles can last up to 60 hours depending on the size
The scents are usually inspired by stories of the founders
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Diptyque’s journey from a concept store to a candle empire is a testament to the founders’ vision and commitment to quality. With its instantly recognisable codes, timeless design and signature scents, its classic candles speak to every generation and act as an object to be treasured, with the ability to recreate memories of far-off places.
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Credits
Images: Diptyque
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Sim Wie Boon is the general manager of Tatler Malaysia. Previously the print and digital editor, Sim hails from the land of the hornbills, Sarawak. Sim is now based in Kuala Lumpur and brings more than a decade of experience in the media industry as a journalist and broadcast producer.
As a self-proclaimed geriatric millennial, he appreciates the finer things in life, from savouring a sip of single malt whisky to relishing in the deliciousness of char siew. While reminiscing about the indie-sleaze era, Sim now finds solace in the soothing tunes of ambient music, staying active through running and occasionally succumbing to the addictive world of doom scrolling.
Follow him on Instagram or Threads at @simwb
