Cover Marc Chaya, CEO & Co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian (photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
Marc Chaya, CEO & Co-founder of Maison Francis Kurkdjian (photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
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No celebrity endorsements. No elaborate campaigns. Maison Francis Kurkdjian has entered the Vietnamese market guided by a clear philosophy: perfume is art, and true art should never be compromised by commercial intent.
Hello Marc Chaya! First of all, congratulations on the official launch of the Maison Francis Kurkdjian perfume brand in Vietnam. What does this milestone mean to you and the Maison?
This year marks the 17th anniversary of the brand, and we are truly honoured that Maison Francis Kurkdjian is now officially in Vietnam. Personally, I have a deep affection for the country, it’s a place I’ve visited many times and hold close to my heart. After years of preparation, this feels like the perfect moment to bring our vision here. We are currently present in 50 countries with over 800 points of sale, and expanding into Vietnam represents a meaningful step in strengthening our presence across Southeast Asia.
While many brands treat art as a vehicle for messaging, Maison Francis Kurkdjian approaches each fragrance as a conversation between art, humanity and time. Could you tell us more about this creative process?
Maison Francis Kurkdjian is not a niche perfume house, nor do we rely on attention-seeking marketing tactics. We are fortunate to have Francis Kurkdjian, one of the most brilliant perfumers of our era, at the heart of our story. Yet for years, perfumers like him have stood in the shadows of marketing narratives. Audiences are often captivated by brands and slogans, but they overlook the individuals who infuse each bottle with meaning and soul. That, to us, is a great injustice. Sixteen years ago, Francis and I set out to change this perception.
In fragrance today, the true voices are the perfumers themselves. Consider Paris in the 20th century, when visionaries like Picasso, Modigliani and Van Gogh redefined the language of art. They conversed through their work. For us, each perfume is a story yet to be told, shaped by artistic sensitivity, depth and courage. It is a boundless journey where generosity, beauty and originality are allowed to flourish, free from the pressures of market trends or fleeting fashions.
Read more: Discontinued scents still make perfume connoisseurs wistful
Above For too long, the perfume world has narrowed the perception of its craft
Above A genuine perfumer possesses something delicate and rare: the instinct to grasp the spirit of the age
For too long, the perfume world has narrowed the perception of its craft
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Thank you, what a fascinating perspective! I especially love your use of the word “dialogue”. As you said, a true dialogue is never-ending, isn’t it?
Absolutely. And it must always offer something meaningful. A dialogue, by its nature, must be entered into freely. You can’t compel someone to create with you. If it’s forced, it loses all sincerity. Collaboration can sometimes feel transactional, but dialogue is born of a shared joy in the creative process. In October 2025, we’ll host an exhibition in Paris to celebrate 30 years of fragrance creations that have made a mark on both art and perfumery. Through this, we hope to reaffirm our message: creativity remains the essence of Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Marketing simply helps convey that vision, and very few brands are bold enough to lead with that truth.
Creatively, Maison Francis Kurkdjian is also well known for its fusion of tradition and modernity. How does Maison Francis Kurkdjian balance classic sophistication with a contemporary spirit?
Modernity, for us, is not about following trends, it is simply the language of our era. As for ‘tradition’, I prefer to think of it as “selective inheritance”—much like the way a master artist draws from the past to shape something entirely new.
We chose the name Maison with intent. It is a “House of Art”, where legacy becomes the soil from which fresh ideas grow. For too long, the perfume world has narrowed the perception of its craft. Many still see perfumery as little more than blending essential oils in a lab. But the true act of creation lies far beyond this. A genuine perfumer, someone like Francis Kurkdjian, possesses something delicate and rare: the instinct to grasp the spirit of the age. It’s as though he can place his hand upon its pulse, translating that rhythm into a vision of what art might become.
When he created Baccarat Rouge 540, Francis took a bold step. He didn’t cater to market demands or trends. Instead, he introduced something the world didn’t know it was waiting for. The result? One of the best-selling fragrances globally, born not from demand, but from conviction.
Above Francis Kurkdjian and Marc Chaya (photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
Francis Kurkdjian and Marc Chaya (photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
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With such a deep insight, what do you see as the dark sides or worrying difficulties that exist in the contemporary perfume industry?
To understand today’s challenges, we must first trace the journey of perfume over the past century. Once, it stood as a pure expression of art. But over time, the creator’s role became overshadowed by dazzling campaigns and sales tactics. This isn’t solely about commerce, it rather signals a deeper cultural dilemma. Perhaps the most regrettable outcome is the near-invisibility of the perfumer. Fashion designers are celebrated as the icons of their time, yet perfumers—artists who shape our emotional landscapes through scent—are too often reduced to “a nose”. It’s a bit like calling Van Gogh “eyes”, or Beethoven “ears”.
We are not seeking applause, only a space for meaningful dialogue, where the creative spirit is honoured as true artistry. Francis Kurkdjian embodies that spirit fully: an artist whose work continues to expand the language of fragrance with emotional depth, cultural resonance and human sensitivity.
Another pressing issue is the troubling rise of fragrance replication. Baccarat Rouge 540, a scent that took thirty years to develop in both concept and composition, was copied in less than a month. This goes far beyond competition. It erodes confidence in creative integrity. Unlike other art forms, where copyright laws provide strong protection, perfumery remains constrained by outdated 19th-century legislation.
Above The Maison, where heritage is the foundation for new creations (photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
The Maison, where heritage is the foundation for new creations (photo: Maison Francis Kurkdjian)
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The broader concern is the embrace of ‘dupe’ culture. Even more worrying is society’s willingness to celebrate imitation. Media outlets casually publish headlines like “24 Baccarat Rouge Dupes”—something they’d never dare write about a Hermès handbag, a Louis Vuitton piece or a Picasso. This isn’t just a question of ethics in business, it reflects a broader decline in how we value creative expression.
Still, I believe every crisis carries within it the seed of possibility. If faced with clarity and conviction, these challenges can become a call to action, a chance to restore meaning to the craft, and to remind the world that true artistry cannot be faked.
We hope to put perfumers in the spotlight. They are true olfactory artists, and each of their high-end creations should be recognised as a genuine work of art. We are also collaborating with international organisations to help establish a legal framework that safeguards creativity within the perfume industry.
At Maison Francis Kurkdjian, we are nurturing a new generation of perfumers who understand that the art of scent must be born from sincerity, not mimicry or trend. These individuals will become the new ambassadors of fragrance, redefining how the world sees this extraordinary profession.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian is nurturing a new generation of perfumers – future ambassadors who will redefine how the world perceives the art of fragrance creation.
Such authentic dialogues are how we write differently. Can you tell us more about Baccarat Rouge 540, a masterpiece that perfume connoisseurs have hailed as the “Scent Sonnet” of the 21st century?
Baccarat Rouge 540 has come to symbolise luxury in the eyes of true fragrance connoisseurs. Its radiant red hue, inspired by Baccarat’s iconic crystal, commands attention—bold, seductive and unmistakably refined. The scent itself is delicate and sweet, yet enveloped in warmth and mystery, making a lasting impression from the very first encounter.
When Francis Kurkdjian collaborated with Baccarat to mark their 250th anniversary, he became captivated by a single paradox: how to translate the soul of that mesmerising red crystal into scent. The name Rouge 540 is no coincidence, it refers to the precise temperature at which 24-karat gold turns red inside the Baccarat furnace. This is not a dyed colour, but a natural transformation, sharp, vivid and utterly captivating. The fragrance echoes that same intensity, burning with a luminous energy and unfolding into a spellbinding olfactory journey. It is a creation that could only be born from a perfumer brave enough to break all conventional rules.
In the Maison’s universe, scent becomes a mirror to the soul. Today, you may be Baccarat, confident, luminous and alluring. Tomorrow, you could be À La Rose—light, romantic and soaring. The next day might call for the mystery of Oud, or the sheer purity of Aqua Universalis. And on another, you may return to Kurky, joyful, bright-eyed, childlike in wonder. That is the magic of fragrance: it reflects every shade of emotion and celebrates every version of you.
Above Maison Francis Kurkdjian boutique at Vincom Ba Trieu, Hanoi
Maison Francis Kurkdjian boutique at Vincom Ba Trieu, Hanoi
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Above Maison Francis Kurkdjian store at Crescent Mall, HCMC
Maison Francis Kurkdjian store at Crescent Mall, HCMC
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It was really inspiring. And finally, do you have any message for perfume lovers in Vietnam?
I hope Vietnamese clients, whether discovering Maison Francis Kurkdjian for the first time or already familiar, will approach our world with curiosity and openness. Vietnam has long left a deep impression on me, with its vibrant creative spirit, refined eye for beauty, and deep respect for artisanal traditions. To me, perfume is inherently part of that cultural rhythm.
I hope our clients here will understand that what sets us apart is not flamboyant advertising, but the depth of each composition. We do not follow fashion. We tell stories through scent. Every creation begins with inspiration, shaped by a clear vision and crafted with care, patience and devotion. True luxury does not come from what is simply beautiful or expensive. It comes from the extraordinary: rare ingredients, meticulous craftsmanship, and an unwavering commitment to excellence. I believe that Vietnamese consumers, with their innate sense of elegance, will understand this intuitively.
And when you step into Maison Francis Kurkdjian in Vietnam, you are not just entering a boutique. You are beginning a journey of the senses, one where every element, from interior design to the presentation of each fragrance, is curated with purpose. Our partner of 17 years, LUXASIA, is far more than a distributor. They are the vital bridge between our spirit of authentic luxury and fragrance lovers across Vietnam.
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