Cover In the beauty world, certain perfumes—long discontinued—continue to stir longing among fashion lovers, who search endlessly for just one more bottle
In the beauty world, certain perfumes—long discontinued—continue to stir longing among fashion lovers, who search endlessly for just one more bottle
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People often feel compelled to gather fragments of the past. In beauty, too, there are perfumes which, even after being withdrawn from shelves, linger in the minds of connoisseurs—who continue to seek them out with a wistful sense of purpose.
Some fragrances once existed almost invisibly, threading themselves quietly into memory like a fine wisp of smoke curling into the corners of time. Never loud nor ostentatious, their quiet presence only became fully appreciated in their absence, leaving behind a void that no number of new launches can quite touch.
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In the ever-shifting world of perfumery, a few compositions have attained near-mythic status—not only because of their distinctive formulas, but for their uncanny ability to stir the senses, to summon a face, a feeling, or a moment lost to time. Their disappearance, rather than diminishing their charm, has made them all the more treasured.
Guerlain Derby
Within Guerlain’s expansive fragrance library lies a modest yet unforgettable creation. Despite its quiet stature, Derby remains etched in the memories of fragrance aficionados. To this day, collectors continue to seek the elusive 1985 edition—a men’s perfume with a graceful touch so rare that, even after 39 years, its elegance remains unmatched.
Above Nostalgic and faintly melancholic, Derby possesses a cool detachment reminiscent of Theodore “Laurie” Laurence from Little Women
Nostalgic and faintly melancholic, Derby possesses a cool detachment reminiscent of Theodore “Laurie” Laurence from Little Women
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Nostalgic and faintly melancholic, Derby possesses a cool detachment reminiscent of Theodore “Laurie” Laurence from Little Women. To wear it is to step into an atmosphere of cultivated mystery and refined poise. A distinctive blend of bergamot, pepper, leather and oakmoss creates a character unlike anything else available today.
Above A distinctive blend of bergamot, pepper, leather and oakmoss creates a character unlike anything else available today
A distinctive blend of bergamot, pepper, leather and oakmoss creates a character unlike anything else available today
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For those fortunate enough to come across a bottle on eBay, the starting price for 100ml has hovered around US$2,000—close to VND50 million. And with rarity now becoming the ultimate luxury in a volatile fragrance market, it’s anyone’s guess how much higher that figure might climb.
Gucci Pour Homme II
Though not as venerable as Guerlain’s Derby, Gucci’s Pour Homme II still holds a beloved place in the hearts of fragrance devotees. Its brief appearance on the shelves only deepened its mystique—especially after being retired during Gucci’s transition of creative direction, leaving those who missed it doubly regretful.
Above Pour Homme II belonged to the “romantic and seductive” era under Tom Ford
Pour Homme II belonged to the “romantic and seductive” era under Tom Ford
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Above Pour Homme II belonged to the “romantic and seductive” era under Tom Ford
Pour Homme II belonged to the “romantic and seductive” era under Tom Ford
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However, for whatever reason, the absence of Gucci Pour Homme II also creates a defect in the fragrance cabinet of gentlemen when it will be difficult to find a choice that still retains the strong, elegant and masculine features but does not fall into the rut of stereotypical Aquatic notes, old Citrus family or boring sportwear fragrance style.
Above Its absence, brief as its appearance was, continues to evoke such a sense of loss
Its absence, brief as its appearance was, continues to evoke such a sense of loss
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Diptyque Kyoto
It must be said from the outset—Kyoto is not your typical Diptyque perfume. Launched in 2021 as a limited-edition piece within the Le Grand Tour collection, it paid tribute to five places that influenced the house’s three founders, marking Diptyque’s 60th anniversary in unmistakable style.
Above Diptyque chose to interpret Kyoto through the refined lens of Ikebana—the Japanese art of flower arrangement
Diptyque chose to interpret Kyoto through the refined lens of Ikebana—the Japanese art of flower arrangement
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Of all the ways to evoke the spirit of Japan’s iconic ancient capital, Diptyque chose to interpret Kyoto through the refined lens of Ikebana—the Japanese art of flower arrangement—resulting in a scent experience that transcends traditional perfumery.
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Above One immediately detects an earthy note drawn from red beetroot and green vetiver, mingling with tendrils of soft incense and hints of delicate pink florals
One immediately detects an earthy note drawn from red beetroot and green vetiver, mingling with tendrils of soft incense and hints of delicate pink florals
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One immediately detects an earthy note drawn from red beetroot and green vetiver, mingling with tendrils of soft incense and hints of delicate pink florals. Together, they paint a picture of Kyoto—serene, spiritual, and quietly expressive.
Above As a limited edition, Kyoto was swiftly retired by Diptyque
As a limited edition, Kyoto was swiftly retired by Diptyque
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As a limited edition, Kyoto was swiftly retired by Diptyque. It remains one of the brand’s most elusive perfumes—and also among its most coveted, treasured for both its olfactory artistry and commemorative value.
Dior Eau Sauvage
Sauvage may now be a familiar name in Dior’s contemporary men’s line, but few recall the original Eau Sauvage—an altogether different creation first introduced in 1966.
Above Eau Sauvage marked Dior’s first foray into men’s fragrance
Eau Sauvage marked Dior’s first foray into men’s fragrance
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Eau Sauvage marked Dior’s first foray into men’s fragrance. In contrast to today’s bolder, woodier versions tinged with pink pepper and warm spice, the original was luminous and fresh—sunlight in a bottle, designed to amplify youthful energy.
Above To speak of Eau Sauvage is to conjure the feeling of crisp green brightness
To speak of Eau Sauvage is to conjure the feeling of crisp green brightness
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To speak of Eau Sauvage is to conjure the feeling of crisp green brightness—the zesty lift of lemon, bitter orange, and basil rosemary making an immediate impression on the skin. After ten minutes, the verdant notes soften, giving way to a light floral heart that gently settles into an elegant base of aromatic woods and vetiver.
Above Eau Sauvage exuded quiet sophistication, a timeless embodiment of Dior’s spirit expressed through a modern olfactory language
Eau Sauvage exuded quiet sophistication, a timeless embodiment of Dior’s spirit expressed through a modern olfactory language
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It was never loud, yet it was far from ordinary. Eau Sauvage exuded quiet sophistication, a timeless embodiment of Dior’s spirit expressed through a modern olfactory language. Perhaps that’s why, even today, long after newer iterations have taken centre stage, the original 1966 version still lingers in the memory of perfume lovers everywhere.
Article published from the original article in Tatler Vietnam April 2025 issue
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