University dean Kathleen Apilado is keeping the Filipino tradition of artisanal sea salt farming alive

But what is this arduous process, and why is it so fulfilling for these sea salt farmers? First, the farmers wait for the seawater to flow into their land. When the land dries, they scrape the soil and place it in a native filter made from the same material as their roofs called a tapayan. Adding fresh water allows the salt to be sifted into a tube, eventually leading to a kawa. An expensive material key to developing sea salt, the kawa sits on top of an earthen stove, allowing the salt to cook overnight. 

The sea salt is yellow at first, but after drying in the sun, it takes on a pristine white hue with more texture than iodised salt. “Restaurants prefer artisanal sea salt because it adds a more authentic flavour,” says Apilado, who proudly supplies various hotel chains and restaurants, including The Fatted Calf Farm Kitchen, with a wide array of artisanal sea salts.

The province of Zambales produces asin sa buy-o, a sea salt packed in a cylindrical, biodegradable basket made of woven bamboo and rattan. The municipality of Bohol produces asin tibuók, nicknamed ‘dinosaur eggs’ as the salt takes on the shape of the clay pots they are originally cooked in. The island province of Guimaras is home to asin túltul, a sea salt with a unique brick-like shape. Unlike iodised salt, these artisanal sea salts infuse each meal with smoky, fruity undertones or sharp, savoury notes depending on their origins. 

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Sea salt may seem like a humble ingredient, but Apilado sees the bigger picture. “When I first presented this at a big university, people were sceptical. ‘We have table salt already, why focus on this?’ they asked. I told them that this is more than salt, this is about keeping traditions alive. We need to safeguard this tradition instead of only reading about it in history books.” 

Women farmers face particular challenges in the sea salt farming industry, and Apilado is keen to assist them. “They have limited access to land ownership and education,” she says. “They often go unrecognised, even if they’re the ones most dedicated to keeping the craft alive.” Apilado works directly with the women, equipping them not only with the materials but with technical and leadership skills to bring artisanal sea salt into the 21st century. This also involves teaching them about microfinancing. 

“Above all, we create opportunities through amplifying their voices in shaping national policy,” she shares. “This repositions women as agents of change in preserving our culture. We take it for granted now, but agriculture truly is the backbone of our economy.” 

With the help of government leaders such as Senator Loren Legarda, Apilado and her team were able to provide the farmers with more resources. This includes Nanay (mother) Edith, who is considered one of the oldest artisanal sea salt farmers in Botolan, Zambales. When they asked Nanay Edith what she needed, she requested more materials such as wheelbarrows and cookware.

Thanks to Apilado's efforts, the number of artisanal farmer families has increased from four to 20, with more expressing interest in keeping this tradition alive. Apilado also expresses her gratitude to the team behind the Sheraton Hotel in Manila Bay. Along with New World Hotel, they were the first to show interest in artisanal sea salt. The Sheraton staged a gallery with information about the different types of salt, giving guests a glimpse into this aspect of the Philippines' unique culinary heritage.  

Here, Apilado shares her tips on creating work-life balance and her advice for the next generation. 

How do you balance your academic responsibilities, advocating for sea salt farmers and raising your children at the same time? 

It’s not easy. It requires intentional prioritisation, a strong support system and time management skills. When I visit the provinces of sea salt farmers, I encourage my children to join me and pass on the story to their friends. As a leader, I need to keep myself healthy with an active lifestyle. I do marathon running and encourage everyone around me to eat healthy food. I stay grounded in my values: my work in community development and cultural preservation is an extension of my commitment to my well-being and caring for my family. 

What advice would you give young women who are interested in advocating for cultural preservation or pursuing agricultural careers? 

Pursue your passion with determination. Everyone has a mission, everyone has a purpose. In the fields of cultural preservation and agriculture, there are rich stories of people and opportunities to make meaningful contributions. 

Start by educating yourself and seek mentors who can guide your journey, building a community you want to work with. Embracing collaborations is essential because preserving culinary heritage is a collective effort. If you stay steadfast in your vision, this will help immerse you more in the lives of those you choose to serve.  

Front & Female Changemakers celebrates the extraordinary journeys of inspiring women who have emerged as powerful changemakers in a range of fields, offering a glimpse into their lives and showcasing their courage, vision and relentless pursuit of change and progress. From social entrepreneurs and business leaders to educators, artists, activists and scientists, Front & Female changemakers exemplify the ability to challenge the status quo and demonstrate the power of women to effect change.

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