The ultimate guide to the best modern Malaysian restaurants in the KL city centre, according to Tatler Best 2025

Rooted in the spirit of fire, passion, and Malaysian soul, Barkar reimagines traditional hawker flavors with a bold and modern approach. At its core, open-flame cooking serves as both a technique and a tribute to Malaysia’s rich cultural roots, infusing each dish with depth, smokiness, and history. Founded by Soh Yong Zhi and Lee Zhe Xi, Barkar is more than just a restaurant—it is a communal space where flames tell stories, and food becomes a bridge between tradition and innovation. The menu is deeply influenced by the flavors of Perak and other local cultures, reflecting the chefs’ dedication to preserving and elevating Malaysian culinary heritage. Signature dishes like the smoked century egg with caviar and the char siew Wagyu beef claypot rice are a testament to this vision, showcasing the vibrancy of Malaysian flavors through contemporary craftsmanship and fire-driven techniques.

Diners are taken on a culinary tour around Malaysia with iconic dishes inspired by different regions with Beta KL’s tasting menu, which has an engaging narrative. Chef Raymond Tham showcases his personal style and creative ingenuity with eclectic use of local flavours, presenting a contemporary spin on Malaysian cuisine. Courses are both well-thought out and memorable. Attentive and effective, service remains a key feature of the experience here, and the team looks to ensure guests are engaged throughout. 

Opened in September 2003, Bijan offers traditional but innovative Malay cuisine within a luxury setting. Headed by chef Mohd Ghazali, the Bijan team is offering a new way to enjoy Malay food—enhancing local delicacies through the perfect balance of old and new methods, some that aren’t necessarily associated with traditional Malay food, along with a great wine pairing. The Bijan approach is centred in generational recipes, fused with innovation, producing forgotten favourites with new flavours and textures. Dishes such as the Rendang Itik and Rusuk Panggang, and Chocolate Durian Cake highlights this philosophy to food, seen through from appetiser to dessert. 

Visit modern Malaysian eatery Chocha Foodstore for well-executed food that showcases sustainable ingredients sourced from independent farmers, fishermen, and foragers. Diners are able to explore the local landscape through a fun and thoughtful meal. Its ambiance is rustic and unique, a great place for meeting like-minded individuals and food enthusiasts. Try the lightly smoked duck breast, served with a sauce of offal, buah keluak, and pineapple curry. Alternatively, the braised banana blossoms dish sees the flowers fried in a light batter, served with tempoyak (fermented durian) and fried kesum leaves. 

Dewakan is the crown jewel of Malaysian fine dining, introducing guests to indigenous ingredients with its beautiful plates while pushing boundaries and advancing our culinary scene. No one else does justice to local produce quite like Darren Teoh, and Dewakan’s dishes have an educational aspect to them, using lesser-known local produce in a daring, experimental manner. There is attention to detail in the experience, and the team impresses with in-depth knowledge of ingredients.