Inside Rosewood Amsterdam, the historic Palace of Justice reborn as a luxury hotel housing over 1,000 works of art

Even before you check in, the hotel will immerse you in shape-shifting, genre-bending art from every angle. Walking in, I spotted a vase made entirely of Smurf figurines wedged together like puzzle pieces. Then, I found myself transfixed by a melting, floor-to-ceiling digital installation created in collaboration with Amsterdam’s Nxt Museum. I noticed not one, but two, of Frank Stella’s abstract Polish Village reliefs on the lobby walls. And outside, there’s a courtyard garden designed by renowned landscape whisperer Piet Oudolf, reminiscent of his iconic work on New York City’s High Line.

It’s worth noting that Rosewood Amsterdam is the last of its kind: this is the final hotel ever allowed to open within a historical landmark in the city. First built as an orphanage in 1665, the building was reimagined in the 1820s by architect Jan de Greef into the Neoclassical structure now known as the Palace of Justice. Its walls have witnessed centuries of courtroom dramas and civil unrest before Rosewood Hotels acquired it in 2015.

The decade-long restoration that followed shows that Rosewood Amsterdam is an exercise in delicate preservation. To this day, the hotel hasn’t power-washed the building’s stone façade, and has safeguarded centuries-old tiling, terrazzo walls, hidden passageways and even graffiti etched into its former cell block walls. Dutch interior design powerhouse Studio Piet Boon was tapped to lead the redesign—to honour the building’s heritage while introducing contemporary elements. The result is a time capsule with subtle flair, seen in details such as bronze accents and headboards pleated to look like judicial robe collars.

And then, there’s the sweet ride on the water: a restored 1920s teak-and-mahogany Salon Boat—another one of Piet Boon’s design gems—is docked out front on the Prinsengracht and ready to bring guests on private tours around the city.

Stretching across a full block in the Canal District, Rosewood Amsterdam is striking amidst the city’s mosaic of leaner, canal-lined homes. And yet within its walls, the rooms are disarmingly residential. The hotel has a total of 134 rooms, including five signature Houses—stylish pieds-à-terre with a homey feel. Stepping into my own room, I was welcomed with soaring ceilings, a cradling armchair, a plus king-sized bed and a minibar stocked with everything needed to stir and serve my own espresso martini. Bedside reading ranged from The World According to Vincent to Coco Capitán’s signature scribbles: If you’ve seen it all, close your eyes. A warm sand and soft sage colour palette is interrupted by bright pops from a crimson vase and a tangerine acrylic tray. My favourite spot was the courtyard-facing freestanding bathtub, which was perfect for morning soaks, complete with rosemary chia soap and bath salts by Votary.

Guests in the five Houses get extra perks. Those in House 020 (a reference to Amsterdam’s area code) can wear curated designer pieces during their stay, while the Library House lives up to its name with its extensive reading collection.

At Advocatuur, the moody ground-floor bar named after the Dutch word for “legal practice”, 90s hip hop music pulses against the olive walls and cobalt blue velvet chairs. Advocatuur is not Yann Bouvignies’ first rodeo. The director of bars and beverages at Rosewood Amsterdam was previously head of mixology at Rosewood London’s award-winning Scarfes Bar.

Tickled by the idea of evaporated stroopwafel in my cocktail, I ordered the Wild Romance, which was also mixed with Bowmore 12 Whisky, salted caramel verjus and absinthe. As more people trickled into the bar for pre-dinner refreshments, I went for round two: Skandalus, a slightly more tangy cocktail with Lost Explorer Espadín mezcal, passion fruit, St Germain and Billecart-Salmon champagne. All cocktails nod to Amsterdam’s 1960s counterculture Provo moment, evident in their cheeky names and irreverent skull doodles on the menu. There is also a speakeasy-style tasting room and distillery where Advocatuur makes its own Jenever (Dutch gin).

The bar bites celebrate Indian cuisine, fulfilling the late mayor Eberhard van der Laan’s wish that the building’s next life pay homage to the Netherlands’ large Indian community and diaspora. Enjoy raj kachori with pomegranate and smoked eel, or baked samosas with garam masala and coriander chutney, fired up in tandoor clay ovens.

Down the hall at the hotel’s signature restaurant Eeuwen, chef David Ordoñez (with stints at Noma and Arzak under his belt) blends local ingredients with his global culinary experience. My meal began with meaty oysters, followed by smoked mackerel and trout fish eggs neatly packed on top of brioche bites, then yellowtail crudo and smoked eel—almost too pretty to eat—paired with white and green asparagus. The highlight was the guinea fowl, complemented by airy pomme dauphine and a rich pâté drenched in morel sauce.

Sitting below ground level but still streaming in natural light (thanks to Piet Boon’s perceptive design), Asaya Spa is where to get lost for hours. Its 12-metre pool is bordered by a hot tub, sauna, stream room and several relaxation nooks featuring wide beds, magazines and privacy curtains that invite some serious horizontal loafing. For those seeking more activity, there’s a 24-hour fitness gym and pilates studio too. I chose the Restore Aromatic Massage, which blissed me out with Ayurvedic-rooted strokes and Subtle Energies oils. And when I was finally ready to reemerge, the living museum that is Rosewood Amsterdam was waiting for me to pick up where I left off with my art-filled tour.

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