Parks and prejudice: your ultimate guide to London

My mother and I scrambled to find my very first flat, a rental on Eaton Terrace. It was a tiny basement space which shook every half hour as it was Tube-affected. Fortuitously, around the corner was Pimlico Road, known as London’s foremost design street. It was another street that I ended up living in for several years. Despite its name, Pimlico Road is in Belgravia, and not in the Pimlico area at all. A minute away from Sloane Square, it is home to London’s finest interior designers and antique dealers. Notable figures in interior design—from Nina Campbell, Rose Uniacke to John Fowler—all have storefronts here.

For years I lived in my R.Soles cowboy boots and pashmina as an Asian Sloaney Pony in the flat above the design office of acclaimed interior design legend Jane Churchill. A niece of Nancy Astor and Nancy Lancaster, known as “The Two Nancys”, Churchill often credits her two aunts for her interest in design.

My best friend at that time worked for Churchill, which made for great fun. I went around showrooms with this friend, a woman whose taste in our generation is exceptional. My friend’s mother, likely the most elegant woman I have spent time with, was a great influence in my personal style. There were a few instances where I found myself organising Churchill’s sample fabric and wallpaper library in an attempt to help my friend so we wouldn’t miss lunch or dinner reservations.

In consequence, I learnt which makers were considered the best in textiles and wallcoverings. The view from my bedroom window was the boutique of then Viscount David Linley, now Lord Snowdon, a furniture maker and designer who is the son of Princess Margaret and the nephew of Queen Elizabeth II. I would often pop by the store, touching everything, just enjoying the feeling of how polished and perfect it was.

A triangle centrally sits in this special road, and anchoring it is Robert Kime’s office and showroom on the Ebury Street side. Famously known as the interior designer of Prince Charles and Princess Diana, he is responsible for the design of Clarence House and Highgrove, some of the most beloved residences of now King Charles, as well as several other Royal homes.

Kime has since passed, but he epitomised scholastic luxury lived-in British traditional sensibilities with touches of Eastern elements. He created homes that bore his intellect and academic prowess. There is a sense of depth of research, travel and history woven into the detail of his work.

For those who wish to employ a traditionally English approach to their home, Kime is where one might find themselves best suited. His protege of over a decade, Orlando Atty, has been appointed as his successor. Atty is fully dedicated to continuing his predecessor’s legacy, whilst moving it forward. In addition, if this style suits your taste, interior designer Sara Oliver would be an excellent option to design a home with.

For those who value tradition, and enjoy a full service hotel, there is nothing in London quite as marvellous as the Dorchester Hotel. Known as the “Palace on Park Lane”, it was in their Park Suite that Prince Philip celebrated his stag night, more colloquially known in the Philippines as a bachelor’s night. He spent the eve of his wedding to then Princess Elizabeth in this hotel. It is not uncommon to sit next to rock stars alongside royalty at breakfast in the main dining area known as the Promenade.

The hospitality of some of their staff is the best I have seen in the world. Make sure to book the Snug at Vesper Bar and look for Ryan, he is fantastic. The Dorchester is one of the few hotels in London of its size that can deliver true luxury. The lobby holds the grandest flower arrangements I have ever seen in any hotel. The beds and pillows at the Dorchester are worth mentioning; you will never sleep better.

Valets help you unpack and pack everything, neatly folding and hanging every item into the wardrobes. When you arrive home, all your things will be wrapped in tissue and every bottle in your vanity case, bubble wrapped. No task is too big; they even offer the latest PlayStation installed in the room for children to enjoy. They will go so far as to procure children’s favourite games as well as to organise private pizza and chocolate-making lessons for children staying at the hotel in their actual kitchens!

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The Connaught was what I found to be the hotel many Filipinos recommend. Their lobby is a cosy elegantly executed space panelled in the richest dark wood. It reminds me of an inn in a scene in Thomas Hardy’s Far from the Madding Crowd, and the added touch of massive Cire Trudon candles burning on every corner did not escape me. Their powder room attendants are Filipinos with the thickest British accents, something that made me smile.

They have an ironically famous, exceptional speakeasy-style bar called the Red Room. Villa-style residences known as The Connaught Mews are a perfect choice for families. It is wonderfully located across our family’s favourite church, the Jesuit-led Farm Street Church in Mayfair, as well as iconic restaurants such as George’s and Scott’s, with cafes such as Marchesi and The Farm Shop.

If you wish to stay in my favourite part of London, the Sloane Square area, there are several boutique hotels worth considering. Hotel Costes’s London branch, At Sloane, is for those who lean towards evocative interiors with a Parisian touch. The Hari, owned by Hong Kong-based Harilela family, is best suited for those with a preference for staying in one of the best residential streets in Belgravia, Chesham Street.

As a creature of habit, my recommendations are mostly tried and tested, consistent old favourites. Daphne’s tops my list. I love how pretty it is, and how deliciously reliable their food and cocktails are. For the best reviewed and loved by most, River Cafe would take this crown. The Wolseley is the classic quintessential British space with European fare. Try their Black Velvet cocktail, a concoction made with Champagne and Guinness served in a sterling silver mug. It is celebrated for being the best spot for brunch, where you could be seated next to figures such as Rishi Sunak.

Other classics I love for casual dining are Granger and Co, as well as Ottolenghi. Both are located in Pavillion Road where there are other great spots such as Bread Ahead for doughnuts and Roasting Party for coffee. Nearby, I like Le Poule au Pot and Colbert for French. For organic food, Daylesford Organic. For Italian food, Caraffini and Scalini are lovely and have been in the same location for decades. Nina Marylebone also offers delicious Italian and allows infants. The ABC Kitchens helmed by Chef Jean-Georges at the Emory allows children to dine and their food is absolutely inspired! The Harrods Pizza Parlour is also worth mentioning; children always have a great time there!

London is exceptional for its Indian and Asian selections. Kulu-Kulu on Brewer Street, is a favourite casual sushi place where the chefs are all Indian. Go for the salmon, prawn tempura and avocado hand roll, simply the best. The Four Seasons in Bayswater is a Chinese institution known for serving the best duck rice. The ducks come from a specific farm in Scotland, giving them a flavour unlike any.

My mother’s personal Chinese favourite is the Good Earth in Knightsbridge. For luxury Cantonese, China Tang is where to go. The best part is that they serve dim sum at dinner! Middle Eastern choices abound in London, from Ishbilia to Maroush. I always order the same things; hummus with pita bread and chicken wings with a side of toum and chili sauce. For Indian Gymkhana and Amaya are spots you may want to dress up for. At Khan’s in Bayswater, you could elect to dress more casually. In London, dress codes are everything.

Physical movement in London is a daily pleasure. Leisurely walks around Hyde Park—particularly the Serpentine, Kensington Gardens, Holland Park and Regent’s Park— offer lovely views and are perfect for picnics. For the best workout, Stephen Price at Body Space is the man to know. A friend for decades, his private gyms are scientifically advanced facilities. Sessions may include spa treatments using medical grade balms. Access to his gyms require memberships; but in some cases, guests at hotels they are located in are granted access.

The Method at the heart of Westbourne Grove, is located in what is arguably the most elegant street in Notting Hill. I did countless Ballet Boost classes with professional ballerina Georgia Ware and Filipino Julius Ebreo, who trains the Lion King cast in the West End. Walk out and get ready to shop; Sezane, Reformation, With Nothing Underneath, Mini Rodini, Melissa Odabash, Daylesford Organic Home and the largest branch of Space NK are all within metres of The Method.

Liberty has to be the most creative and with the best selection of London’s department stores. For boutiques, Joseph on Brompton Cross has stayed a firm favourite as it stocks Joseph pieces as well as other labels such as Emilia Wickstead and Gabriella Hearst. For women’s hats and fascinators, Philip Treacy on Elizabeth street remains the best. For cashmere, N.Peal founded in 1936; Brora, worn by the Duchess of Cambridge; and Sloane Rangers of all ages all remain staples in my wardrobe. And of course, Peter Jones for children’s clothes. The Anya Hindmarch Village on Pont Street is worth a visit for quirky pieces rooted in tradition. They have an ice cream parlour with the most English flavours; try Hobnobs and Bird’s Custard Powder flavours.

Take a few steps from Anya Village and you will find yourself in Violante Nessi’s Townhouse on Cadogan Place, a trove of fashion. Trained at Tom Ford, her pieces are tailored, and empowering. Nessi herself is a force of nature, elegant and knowledgeable. Her geometric signature buttons were handmade by an Italian woman devoted to the art of button making, but has since passed. Nessi honours her legacy by using this form as inspiration for many of her pieces. In a country with an active monarchy, jewellers are plentiful.

The best London Jeweller is David Morris. Schedule an appointment at his private salon; I hear that is where the good stuff is! For coloured stones, Kiki Mcdonough is a lovely option. For contemporary designs, Cassandra Goad offers stunningly handcrafted creations. For vintage there is only one name to know, Humphrey Butler. Located in the most elegant Townhouse on Carlos Street in Mayfair, there is the wonderful jeweller, Jessica McCormack. Designed for daily wear, her “day diamonds” are crafted uniquely in a manner that feels youthful and elegant. The team are incredibly knowledgeable with pedigrees from the best jewellery houses.

For menswear, the two streets that matter most are Saville Row for suits and Jermyn Street for shirts. In terms of footwear, Church’s handmade shoes enjoy a long history dating back from 1873. For Ascot top hats, there is only one place, Lock and Co Hatters, established in 1676 and is the oldest hat shop in the world.

For homeware, Fiona Finds is perfect for those who love traditional and vibrant pieces. Her waxed Italian linen placemats are beautiful as they are practical. Her selection of pieces, everything from—plates, crystal and homeware—made by artists from all over the world is unrivalled in expertise.

London is the kind of place that has something for everyone. It will always be the city I call home. Every time I return, I realise that as much as I love the Philippines, for me it is primarily a place of family and work. London is where I truly live. When it comes to style, tradition, luxury and manners, few can argue for a better place. For this Anglophile, everything the English do, they do properly.

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