On top of the world: Sandra Zobel takes on a magnificent journey to the Arctic

The Arctic is not about abundance or constant stimulation, but about rare, unforgettable moments.

The excitement I felt since the first encounter stayed with me throughout the whole expedition. I was carrying two heavy cameras with different lenses, prepared for anything. When I’m focused, though, my gear turns weightless. Freezing temperatures that could turn my nails blue at many moments didn’t bother me. At times, I even instinctively stopped breathing to stabilise a shot. Michael George, the National Geographic photographer onboard, whom I admired as a professional (and after meeting him, as a person too), understood and even shared my methodologies.

One day, the Resolution dramatically slowed down as we reached a vast area of sea ice. One of the spotters on the captain’s deck had seen something. I rushed over and pointed my lens in the same direction as his binoculars. For the longest time, I searched without success. Suddenly, something caught my eye. A creamy-coloured blur of fur, far and hard to distinguish from its surroundings. Silence fell over the deck. We could only hear the cracking and roaring of the ice against the hull as it split to either side. Our first polar bear appeared. We were told to keep quiet as the bear could smell and hear us from that distance, and the slightest sound might scare it away. A second bear appeared, and then a third: a mother and her two adolescent cubs. Even from afar, their size was extraordinary. After a while, the ship turned back to move on, only to encounter the male waiting for us in the glow of the setting sun, the ice reflecting orange around him. Witnessing four polar bears in a single afternoon became one of the best days of my life!

The scenery throughout the trip was just as impressive, offering a striking contrast of landscapes. On our first zodiac outing, we explored the Smoking Hills in the Canadian High Arctic, which is home to a natural phenomenon where cliffs burn continuously. We hiked around Beechy Island to the site of [the British explorer Rear Admiral Sir John] Franklin’s final expedition. There, surrounded by desolation, we stood near the ruins and graves of his men, imagining their unimaginable struggle to survive in a place this unforgiving. We sailed through massive icebergs that looked like floating sculptures and cruised into fjords where glaciers poured down into the sea. The nights also put on quite a show. As if a full moon in the Arctic wasn’t special enough, the Northern Lights decided to make an appearance. After seeing them for the first time, I was sleepless. At 3am, I felt an urge to quietly suit up again and get out on the deck alone, my cheeks being hit by icy winds and surrounded by pure darkness… for a brief second, I couldn’t help getting Titanic vibes! Greenland offered the perfect finale, blending raw nature with their colourful houses that felt playful and brought smiles to our faces.

The expedition leaders decided the calm, beautiful setting of Buchan Gulf called for the “polar plunge”. Dread filled me, but determination pushed me forward. Every step, barefoot, towards the water was heavy with doubt. I stepped onto the zodiac and jumped. As soon as my toe hit the water, my face twisted into shock. I had expected it to be cold, but not that cold. I proudly rushed out, laughing through the pain, happy it was over!

There were days when we would wake up to below-zero temperatures, and I wondered if I could live in such a cold environment, like the different Inuit communities we met. On every visit, we were welcomed by some locals who showed us around and gave us a glimpse into their culture and daily lives through demonstrations of traditional dances and sports inspired by animals and survival skills, as well as their creative crafts. During one particular visit, we walked into a library. The group looked around and continued the guided tour, but I had met a lovely older lady working there whom I felt a connection with, and I decided to stay. Little by little, she opened up about her family, telling me how her siblings had been placed in Residential Schools, some, never to be seen again. Her father made sure his youngest stayed behind, claiming he could still provide for a four-year-old. She also shared her affection for the Inuit and her efforts to preserve their culture. When she turned 50, she decided to tattoo her face with the traditional symbols that would tell her story. Several dots aligned on either side of her eyes represented each family member, and a straight line centred down her chin reminded her always to stand firm. What surprised me the most was that, at the age of 50, she had asked for permission from her parents before getting married. Staying with her had been the right call. The way she took her time to share her personal story aligned with and confirmed everything I had experienced since I started this journey. Time has excellent value, and when you offer it, you are rewarded with quality—in this case, a very palpable human quality.

The other community that stood out was, of course, the Filipino crew on the ship! Their warmth balanced out the cold, and in such a remote area of the world, they made the Resolution feel like home. Their kindness and joyful energy were contagious throughout the whole trip. 

The Resolution comes to life thanks to all the teams who are constantly working together, going above and beyond all expectations. It is built to ensure an experience as comfortable and luxurious as it is adventurous, setting a new standard for this type of travel. It doesn’t just withstand ice and storms with barely a sway, but every detail has been thought through. The ship offers an impeccable design, a spa, a gift shop… and delicious food. The list of highlights is long, but I will make a special mention of the Chef’s Dinner. Over 300 hours were invested in creating an intimate, zero-waste seven-course menu, which was offered to all passengers. Every ingredient was used to its fullest potential, and every course was both creative and delicious. It mirrored the philosophy of the trip: time, patience and attention create quality.

Sharing this trip with friends and family, the wildlife, stunning landscapes, history and culture… Everything this expedition has given me is a gift. This was my second expedition on the Resolution, and I know it won’t be my last. What I don’t know is when I’ll be back, but I am sure of one thing: it will be worth the wait.

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