A cultural wanderer’s guide to Macau, where East meets West on cobbled streets

Senado Square, or Largo do Senado as the locals call it, was our initial port of call. The black and white mosaic paving underfoot, laid out in that distinctive wave pattern, immediately set a rather European tone. Flanked by those neatly painted neoclassical buildings in shades of ochre and cream, it felt for all the world like a sun-drenched square you might stumble upon in Lisbon. Cisco specifically pointed out the Leal Senado Building, and recounted tales of its long history as the seat of local governance.

From there, the flow of foot traffic naturally led us towards the skeletal grandeur of the Ruins of St. Paul’s, the path gently inclining along the Rua de São Paulo. As we drew closer, the imposing stone façade gradually filled the view, all that remained of the once-grand St. Paul’s College and Church, lost to fire in the 19th century. The intricate carvings, a fascinating blend of baroque flourishes and subtle Oriental motifs, spoke volumes about Macao’s unique cultural footprint. Standing before this roofless monument, one couldn’t help but feel a twinge of wistfulness for what had been, yet admiration for what remained. 

A short climb then took us to the ramparts of Mount Fortress, or Fortaleza do Monte, offering a sweeping panorama of the cityscape, a strategic vantage point that had once kept an eye over the Portuguese settlement. From up there, the old terracotta rooftops nestled amongst the more recent high-rises painted a clear picture of Macau’s evolving story. (And the juxtaposition of seeing the more modern buildings and casinos from the spot was quite an experience.)

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How could I forget Macau’s Lusitanian heritage in the form of St. Dominic’s Church, the Igreja de São Domingos? Its cheerful yellow frontage was instantly recognisable, a splash of colour against the more muted tones of the surrounding buildings. Inside, the cool air offered a welcome respite from the midday heat, and Cisco told us about the ornate details of the altar and various historical artefacts, each with a tale to tell. It’s quite something to consider that this church has stood here since the early 17th century, a silent witness to the ebb and flow of Macau’s fortunes.

However, to truly grasp the spiritual essence of the place, Cisco led us to the A-Ma Temple, perched on the southern edge of the peninsula. Reputedly the oldest temple in Macau, its Hall of Benevolence dates back to the late 15th century. It’s a captivating site where Taoism, Buddhism, Confucianism, and a host of local beliefs intertwine.

Cisco navigated us through the various pavilions, each built into the natural contours of Barra Hill, explaining the significance of the deities and the harmonious coexistence of these different spiritual traditions. His insights into A-Ma, the goddess of seafarers, and the temple’s pivotal role in the very naming of Macau, were particularly engaging. Even with a fair few visitors milling about, a sense of quiet reverence permeated the air, underscored by the scent of incense.

Of course, a proper exploration of Macau necessitates a sampling of its culinary delights, and Cisco, ever the knowledgeable guide, steered us towards the most reputable establishments for a taste of local treats. The little custard tarts, with their flaky pastry and slightly caramelised tops, proved every bit as delightful as rumour had it.

Beyond the well-trodden paths, the tour allowed us to delve into the narrow, winding alleyways, discovering tucked-away temples adorned with vibrant ceramic figures and traditional shops selling all manner of intriguing wares. 

Later, we ventured towards the reclaimed land of the Cotai Strip, a stark contrast to the historical peninsula. Here stood the Venetian Macau, a veritable monument to modern Macau’s identity as a global entertainment hub. Modelled, as the name suggests, on the canals and palazzi of Venice, its sheer scale was quite something to behold. 

While Cisco did clarify that a trip up the Macau Tower wasn’t part of our itinerary—an optional extra, he explained—the vastness of the Venetian, with its indoor canals where gondoliers serenaded shoppers beneath a painted sky, was a spectacle in itself. The constant whir and chime of the casino floor, stretching as far as the eye could see, was a reminder of Macau’s other prominent identity. In addition to the Venetian, we also marveled at the grandeur of The Londoner Macau.

Not far from the tranquil setting of the A-Ma Temple, Cisco pointed out the striking bronze figure of Guan Yin, standing serenely by the waterfront. He explained the statue’s artistic origins, a blend of European and Eastern aesthetics, and its symbolic significance in bringing peace and prosperity to the city. But, he is also keen on explaining that it was viewed as bad luck by some of the local residents, with foreigners misinterpreting the East’s customs and views with the statue. The lotus flower at the bottom, for example, is not in bloom.

As the day drew to a close, casting a warm, golden light across the cityscape, I reflected on a day well spent. Rather than taking the ferry back to Hong Kong, my family and I decided to take the bus instead for a different experience. It is there, driving along the Hong Kong–Zhuhai–Macau Bridge, that I realised the trip had provided a comprehensive and thoroughly enjoyable introduction to Macau’s multifaceted charm, its history etched in stone and its present humming with a unique energy. 

For anyone keen to get under the skin of this fascinating place in a limited time, a visit to this historic site is a must.

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