A soulful retreat to Bhutan and a close look at its understated luxury

Without sacrificing the luxury experience, sustainability is at the core of Bhutan’s tourism industry

Golden lakhangs, inhabited by solemnly chanting monks and timeless sacred relics, perch precariously on cliffs, like bridges between the earth and the heavens. Majestic, centuries-old dzhongs stand proudly, perpetually pulsating with activity, remaining a testament to a rich culture and a history that endure in the modern era. A palpable spirituality vibrates across the land as colourful prayer flags flutter in the wind, carrying auspicious wishes and good intentions across the verdant valleys of Bhutan.

Few countries in the world are as mysterious as the Land of the Thunder Dragon. Nestled in the Himalayas, with sprawling Indian plains to the south and the mountainous Tibetan region in the north, this peaceful kingdom is an elusive destination for many travellers. And intentionally so.

Above Hot Stone Bath at COMO Uma Paro

“To the people of Bhutan, tourism is much more than just the realisation of revenue and receipts,” said Dorji Dhradhul, director general of the Tourism Council of Bhutan. “Our tourism approach aims to enhance Gross National Happiness at the local level on the one hand, and create awareness of the importance and potential of sustainable development at the global level on the other hand.”

Best described as the index by which Bhutan measures the country and its population’s collective wellbeing, Gross National Happiness or GNH was instituted by the government in the 2008 Constitution. It is the foundation of all of Bhutan’s policymaking.

Above The open terrace at COMO Uma Punakha

Following the “High Value, Low Impact” tourism policy, Bhutan espouses sustainability principles and mitigation measures with fervour, imposing a US$250 per day, per person visa fee for all tourists entering the country. A percentage of this fee goes directly into a “Sustainable Development Fund”. Hailed as the only carbon negative country in the world and with over 60 per cent of the nation covered in indigenous forests and a flourishing natural landscape, Bhutan understandably desires to protect and preserve its pristine environment.

These values are at the core of the local tourism industry, with luxury hotels groups leading the pack, embracing sustainability in all aspects, from design to operations. “At COMO Uma Bhutan, my team and I are committed to protecting the environment and communities in the Kingdom,” explains James Low, general manager of COMO Uma Bhutan. “We act and operate our properties with compassion and integrity to strive for a symbiotic co-existence in the Land of Happiness.”

Above With stunning views of the valley, Six Senses’ Thimphu property is named a “Palace in the Sky”

Above Buddha Dordenma overlooks Thimphu

Their two stunning properties situated in Paro and Punakha are both deeply rooted in the natural landscape and culture. Designed in the traditional Bhutanese architecture, the properties marry rustic luxury with heritage, while staying close to nature. “At COMO Uma Bhutan, we act as custodians, rather than managers of our destination,” explains Jocelyn Whiteside, Director of Sales and Marketing, COMO Group, Bhutan. “Our Bhutanese hotels, COMO Uma Paro and Punakha cultivate indigenous tree species and work with local authorities in reforestation efforts of local blue pine and cypress trees. COMO Uma Paro is also committed to developing wildflower meadows, organic gardens and more mixed species woodland, using oak, hemlock, fir and maple saplings. These measures are paying off, attracting a rich variety of birdlife.”

Another luxury group, Six Senses, who debuted in the kingdom last 2019 with five properties in Thimphu, Paro, Punakha, Gangtey and Bumthang, has also placed sustainability as its driving force. In line with their zero-waste philosophy and their Plastic Freedom 2022 programme, the Six Senses Bhutan has removed all unnecessary plastic packaging from their bedroom and bathroom amenities. “Our water bottling systems allow us to eliminate thousands of plastic water bottles otherwise entering Bhutan each year,” explains Andrew Whiffen, country general manager. “Plus the carbon emissions that come with shipping water over distances. Six Senses Bhutan was designed specifically to reduce energy usage and leverage renewable energy sources in keeping with the Kingdom’s own vision for high value, low impact tourism.”

Above A stunning bedroom of Six Senses Gangtey made from local pine wood featuring an expansive window out onto Phobjikha Valley

The group is engaged in organic agriculture initiatives through community projects and training and even integrates them into their guest experience offerings allowing their clients to take part in their efforts. Investments have also been made in a 17-acre eco-village just outside Paro where the resort works closely with local farmers to grow and raise organic crop and livestock to supply their F&B outlets.

“Our practice of sustainability reaches beyond our lodge grounds to supporting our neighbours,” says Whiffen. “We have a separate sustainability account where 0.5 per cent of total revenues are collected to support specific community, wildlife, and environmental conservation projects in each of our lodge valleys.”

Above Six Senses Thimphu’s dining space

Each of the properties in Bhutan feature hyperlocal design elements, using traditional techniques married with minimalist and modern sensibilities making for a chic and luxurious stay. The lodge at Six Senses Gangtey, for example, is inspired by a traditional farmhouse with a cantilevered birdwatching bridge, perfect for viewing the endangered, graceful, black-necked cranes. Using local stone and timber, the property is seamlessly integrated into the landscape and allows guests to be in constant touch with nature through panoramic views of the valley. Visibly cast in stone through the architecture is Six Senses’ motto: “Sustainability is not something we do, it’s who we are.”

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Credits

Photography

Scott Woodward

Images

COMO HOTELS AND RESORTS, SIX SENSES

Tatler Asia

A soulful retreat to Bhutan and a close look at its understated luxury