Andermatt is where you can live your best alpine life

Tatler heads to Andermatt in Switzerland—once a remote military town, it is now one of the nation’s most ambitious year-round alpine destinations

The road to Andermatt winds higher and more scenic with every turn. Verdant slopes rise on either side, interrupted only by glinting rivers and distant peaks. As Zurich falls away behind and the climb into the Swiss Alps begins, the temperature drops and the air sharpens. Perched at 1,444m above sea level, Andermatt sits among the mountains—a quiet alpine village tucked into a broad valley, modest in size but rich in atmosphere.

In summer, Andermatt is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise. Hiking trails stretch for hundreds of kilometres through alpine meadows and past glacial lakes, while cyclists tackle dramatic climbs across the region’s iconic mountain passes. In winter, the mountains are blanketed in snow and the pace shifts—skiers and snowboarders descend on the village for its varied terrain and reliable conditions. Gemsstock, the area’s crown jewel, offers a vertical drop of 1,500m and is known for its challenging off-piste runs, drawing advanced skiers from across Europe.

Above Andermatt, Switzerland

Andermatt, Switzerland

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Andermatt, which measures 62 sq km and has just over 1,500 residents (as of 2020), has a complex past and has long held geopolitical significance. It is surrounded by eight Alpine passes, rendering it a key location in historic trade routes, especially between Switzerland and Italy. It is also located near the sources of four of Europe’s greatest rivers—Rhine, Reuss, Ticino and Rhône—earning it the reputation of the region’s “water tower”. During the Second World War, it was a garrison town for the Swiss Army.

In the 2000s, the military began withdrawing operations from Andermatt and the village faced an uncertain future, with a risk of slipping into decline. Its fate changed in 2005, however, when Egyptian investor Samih Sawiris paid a visit and discovered its tourism potential. Through his firm, Orascom Development, he proposed transforming the village into a year-round luxury destination—something that 96 per cent of the local municipality voted in favour of.

Twenty years later, the transformation is well underway. On one side, in the old town—the first settlements of which date back to the 12th century—cobbled streets and old houses are still intact and occupied. On the other side, there are sleek chalets and luxury apartments. An hour-long walk through this tiny town with local tour guide Bänz Simmen, an Andermatt native, reveals layer upon layer of its history—stories of soldiers, traders and families who’ve lived here for generations. It’s a village where historic stone walls sit just across the lane from sleek new builds; where stories from Simmen’s childhood echo off the same slopes now reflected in triple-glazed, floor-to-ceiling windows angled to catch the best of the mountain light.

Above The Chedi Andermatt

The Chedi Andermatt

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At the centre of it all is The Chedi Andermatt, the five-star hotel that’s been the architectural anchor of the village since its opening in 2013. Designed by legendary architect Jean-Michel Gathy, the property fuses Alpine warmth with Asian minimalism. Traditional woods, soft leather furniture and natural-stone accents dominate the interiors of its 123 rooms and suites, many of which offer views of the surrounding mountains. Elsewhere across the property are cosy fireplaces, high ceilings—and the scent of pine and cedar lingering in the hallways.

From the Andermatt railway station, just steps away from The Chedi, we take off in a gondola for lunch at the award-winning Gütsch by Markus Neff, situated 2,340m above sea level. We settle down to a seasonal menu of French haute cuisine and classics from the region—think beef tartare served with warm potato bread, marinated Swiss Alpine salmon strips and local goats’ cheese. Framed by sweeping panoramas, it’s a meal that rivals the landscape for attention.

Dinner at The Japanese by The Chedi Andermatt, helmed by Swiss-born twin brothers and executive chefs Dominik Sato and Fabio Toffolon, offers exquisitely presented dishes with fresh ingredients from Japan and around the world; Sato’s wife, Japanese native Yoshiko Sato, is a pastry chef here. The pairing of Japanese purity with Swiss produce feels surprising but completely natural. Highlights include a delicate Norway lobster, umami-rich quail with maitake mushrooms and Swiss chard, and turbot served with grilled peas, konbu shiroita white kelp sheets and a bright touch of sansho Japanese pepper.

The chefs pride themselves on their high standards and their impeccably sourced ingredients, says Toffolon. His brother adds: “The philosophy of Japanese cuisine is [about having] the best product and a respect for the product. It is also [about] not complicating [it].”

Above Andermatt restaurant, The Japanese

Above Andermatt's best Japanese cuisine at The Japanese

Andermatt restaurant, The Japanese

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The next day, a hike along the Four Springs Trail, led by Andermatt-based yoga instructor Tina Somers, offers a deeper experience of the region’s natural abundance. The trail winds past high ridgelines, glacial streams and still, reflective lakes—but during our visit, in the middle of July, an unexpected snowfall dusts the higher elevations, something that surprises even the locals.

The snow underfoot and the thin, clean air offer a glimpse of what these mountains might feel like in winter—otherworldly and softened by white. A lakeside yoga session, led by Somers, feels more like a recalibration than a workout—grounding and deeply restorative.

On the way back, we board the red mountain train—a cogwheel ride from Oberalp Pass down to Nätschen—that affords some of the most breathtaking views of the journey.

Above Andermatt grants access to activities such as the Four Springs Trail and the red mountain cogwheel train

Andermatt grants access to activities such as the Four Springs Trail and the red mountain cogwheel train

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Dinner at Igniv, the fine-dining restaurant by the renowned Swiss chef Andreas Caminada, which also has two outposts in Switzerland and one in Bangkok, is a highlight. The name means “nest” in Romansh, evoking the idea of guests being cared for like birds in their sanctuary. It’s fun without being fussy, while service is warm and precise. Instead of a traditional multicourse menu, it offers dishes that are served family style, with a focus on showcasing regional produce. Expect dainty bites like pike perch with herbs and vitello tonnato tartlets, alongside heartier plates such as whitefish marinated in leche de tigre—a punchy blend of puréed jalapeños and sansho leaves. To end, there’s a whimsical “candy store”: a dessert station where guests can pick and pack their own sweets to take home.

For those inclined toward sport in the summer, the award-winning, 18-hole, par-72 championship Andermatt Golf Course—spanning 130 hectares and sitting at 1,444m above sea level—is well worth a round, or at the very least, a wander. Even for non-golfers, the setting is cinematic. A lesson with British PGA-A professional Lee Edwards is both energising and a surprisingly fun introduction to the sport, even for a golf newbie. Over a lunch of Andermatt yak bratwurst at The Swiss House with Daniel Speer, the head of Andermatt Golf, the conversation turns to sustainability—the greens are maintained with minimal intervention and a light ecological footprint. Like much of Andermatt, it’s designed to feel natural, not imposed.

Above Andermatt's premier fine dining restaurant, Igniv

Above Exceptional cuisine at Igniv, Andermatt

Andermatt's premier fine dining restaurant, Igniv

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Not everything in Andermatt is about movement. Back at The Chedi, the spa is a world unto itself. Measuring more than 25,800 sq ft, it has 12 treatment suites, indoor and outdoor pools and a wellness sanctuary that feels more like a temple, with Finnish saunas, steam baths, a heated pool and a Tibetan-inspired relaxation lounge.

We experience the Biologique Recherche Remodelling Face + Booster Treatment, a signature offering from the French skincare brand. The treatment combines a blend of serums with the brand’s proprietary Remodelling Face machine—a device that uses bio-electrotherapy, which delivers electrical currents, to stimulate tissues and cells. The treatment has a highly customised approach, with the individual’s skin needs addressed via a consultation at the beginning of the session. The focus is on improving skin tone and radiance, with lifting and firming effects. We emerge with skin that gleams, muscles that are slack with calm—and the kind of stillness that stays with you long after you leave.

Before leaving, a drive along the Furka Pass with Alpine Sports Andermatt offers one last hit of high-altitude spectacle: sharp switchbacks, endless mountain views and an unmistakable sense of elevation—both literal and metaphorical. It’s the same stretch of road made famous by Sean Connery’s James Bond in an Aston Martin DB5 in Goldfinger (1964); there is a sign that commemorates the actor. In person, though, it feels stiller, though more majestic—less like a film set and more like something elemental.

Above The Chedi Andermatt

The Chedi Andermatt

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Winding through jagged peaks and deep, forested valleys, we reach the Rhône Glacier, the source of the Rhône River. It’s one of the most historically documented glaciers in Switzerland, with maps from the 19th century tracing its slow retreat. Easily accessible from the Furka Pass, it’s a sobering but awe-inspiring stop—where the scale of nature, and its fragility, come into full view.

From ancient ice to modern ambition—the contrasts in this corner of Switzerland don’t end with the landscape. In recent years, the new town has attracted a wave of international property buyers, especially from Asia. This is in part due to it being one of the few places in Switzerland where foreigners can buy homes without the usual red tape—thanks to a government decision aimed at supporting the village’s long-term revival. That flexibility, paired with the region’s natural beauty and growing cultural cachet, has made Andermatt something of a well-kept secret.

It’s also surprisingly well connected: by car, it is just 90 minutes from Zurich, a little over two hours from Milan and under five from Munich. But distances feel irrelevant here. Andermatt has its own pace and rhythm—somewhere between stillness and motion, old and new; the kind of place you visit for the adventure—and start imagining staying for good.