Cover The stunning landscape of Saas-Fee (Photo: Switzerland Tourism)
The stunning landscape of Saas-Fee (Photo: Switzerland Tourism)
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From glacier panoramas to thermal springs and centuries-old wine, discover the Alpine secrets that make Switzerland’s Valais region a treasure trove in winter
Winter in Switzerland often conjures images of the Matterhorn’s majestic slopes or the glamour of Zermatt. Yet beyond the well-trod trails lies Valais, a canton where tradition and surprise weave together in equal measure. Between glaciers and vineyards, some of the most authentic Alpine experiences still unfold: car-free villages, steaming thermal waters, and centuries-old cellars. The hidden corners of Aletsch Arena, Martigny, Saas-Fee, Leukerbad, and Grimentz may not appear on every Alpine itinerary, but each embodies a facet of Valaisan life that feels both authentic and extraordinary.
Together they offer a truer picture of Valais: glaciers rising above ancient cellars, marmots darting across ski slopes, and traditions that endure as steadily as the mountains themselves. The real discovery this winter is not in what you expect to find, but in what reveals itself when you look a little closer.
Aletsch Arena: ski-in, ski-out by a glacier
Above At over 2,000 metres, Aletsch Arena’s ski slopes guarantee snow from December to Easter
At over 2,000 metres, Aletsch Arena’s ski slopes guarantee snow from December to Easter
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For those who crave both adventure and spectacle, the Aletsch Arena is a revelation. At over 2,000 metres, its ski slopes guarantee snow from December to Easter, kissed by around 300 days of sunshine each year. But it isn’t just the conditions that make this place special; it’s the view. From the ski areas around Riederalp, Bettmeralp, and Fiescheralp, the Great Aletsch Glacier unfurls in all its immensity — a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the largest glacier in the Alps. The black slope from Eggishorn will thrill advanced skiers, while the Glacier Panorama Tour lets you savour the full sweep of ice and peaks. And because the resorts here are car-free, you can step straight from your chalet to the slopes, skis already on your feet. Think of this as skiing distilled to its purest, most exhilarating form.
Martigny: dogs, distilleries, and a taste of heritage
Nestled in a valley of orchards and vineyards, Martigny (martigny.com) is a town that mixes playfulness with gastronomic depth. Families will find enchantment at Barryland (barryland.ch), a lively theme park dedicated to Switzerland’s most iconic canine: the St. Bernard. Here, you can meet the dogs themselves, learn about their care, and step into an interactive world of exhibitions that trace their history as Alpine rescuers and loyal companions.
Yet Martigny’s appeal extends well beyond four legs and wagging tails. Since 1889, the Morand Distillery (morand.ch) has been crafting eaux-de-vie and the celebrated Williamine pear brandy, alongside liqueurs and syrups that carry the flavour of the region’s fruits. A tasting here is both a lesson in terroir and in Valaisan ingenuity. It is no coincidence that Martigny is known as the “cradle of Valaisan gastronomy”, its fertile valley yields everything from apricots to chestnuts, all of which find their way onto the table and into the glass.
Saas-Fee: no cars, but full of life
Above Cross Country Skiing in Saas-Fee
Cross Country Skiing in Saas-Fee
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Perched at 1,800m, just at the foot of Switzerland’s highest mountain, the Dom, Saas-Fee is a village where time seems to move differently. Its streets are blissfully car-free, lined instead with chalets and the occasional cluster of marmots — the real locals here, as tame and curious as you could hope. In winter, 150km of pistes unfold between 3,600m and 1,500m, promising snow-sure skiing under the gaze of eighteen four-thousand-metre peaks. Summer has its charms too, with glacier skiing on 20km of groomed pistes that attract professional ski teams from around the world. For visitors, the reward is less about performance and more about atmosphere: wandering through a place where Alpine authenticity hasn’t been polished away but simply lived.
See also: Grape reads for the curious: 6 approachable books about wine
Leukerbad: the thermal heart of the Alps
Above Leukerbad is a scene that fuses the grandeur of the Alps with the intimacy of human comfort
Leukerbad is a scene that fuses the grandeur of the Alps with the intimacy of human comfort
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Nature offers its most generous gift in Leukerbad with hot water rising from the depths of the mountains. Every day, 3.9 million litres gush forth from 65 springs, warmed to a soothing 51°C after a subterranean journey of forty years. It is this gift that has shaped Leukerbad into Switzerland’s largest thermal resort, where relaxation and wellness are more than amenities, but a way of life. Slipping into one of the town’s many public baths is the ultimate way to relax after a long day on the slopes or hiking trails. Steam curls up into the crisp air, snow settles on the shoulders of bathers, and the Gemmi Pass towers in the background. It is a scene that fuses the grandeur of the Alps with the intimacy of human comfort.
Grimentz: rye bread and glacier wine
At 1,564m, Grimentz is the sort of Alpine village that feels lifted from a postcard. Its narrow streets are lined with sun blackened chalets, balconies heavy with geraniums, and a church whose bells still measure the hours. Yet what makes Grimentz truly unforgettable is its living traditions, which visitors can be a part of (valdanniviers.ch).
Twice or thrice a year, the communal oven is lit, and villagers gather to bake rye bread — a hardy loaf once designed to last months through harsh winters. Today, visitors can join in, rolling dough and reviving a custom that has bound the community for generations. And in the cool cellars of the bourgeois house, another tradition lives on: Vin du Glacier, a rare oxidative wine aged in larch barrels and continually topped up, blending vintages across decades.
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