Cover Zermatt is a wonderland of epic adventures and culinary delights

There are Alpine villages, and then there is Zermatt

Tucked beneath the chiselled peak of the Matterhorn, Switzerland’s most photographed summit straddling the Italian border, it manages to be both postcard-perfect and disarmingly real. This is a place where cars are banished, leaving only horse-drawn sleighs and quiet electric taxis to glide along streets lined with chalets, chocolateries and watch boutiques. The air is crisp, the mountains close, and the whole town feels less like a stage set where the Matterhorn always plays the lead.

See also: From Interlaken to Lucerne: the best of Switzerland's “Pre-Alps” region

Day One: Arrival & the Gornergrat

Arriving in Zermatt is less like checking into a resort and more like stepping into an Alpine reverie. With the hush of a car free village, sound itself feels rarer here: sleigh bells chiming, boots crunching on snow, the soft hum of an electric taxi ferrying guests to grand hotels.

Spend the afternoon gently. Stroll along Bahnhofstrasse (zermatt.ch), the elegant artery lined with Swiss watch boutiques, jewellers who take inspiration from the peaks, and chocolatiers tempting you with pralines polished as gemstones. Some retail therapy is sure to take the edge off your travels, with ski jackets and outerwear at the kind of standard that would pass muster on a runway.

Then embark on the Gornergrat Railway (gornergrat.ch), Europe’s highest open-air cogwheel train and a full alpine experience in itself. The journey begins in Zermatt, winding through larch and pine forests and past alpine meadows before climbing to 3,100 metres. At the summit, the Matterhorn rises in commanding profile, joined by 28 other four-thousand-metre peaks, the Monte Rosa massif and the vast sweep of the Gorner Glacier.

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Above The Gornergrat Railway journey begins in Zermatt

But the views are only part of the story. On the way you can pause at Riffelsee Lake, where the mountain reflects perfectly in the still water, or step into Zooom the Matterhorn, a virtual flight experience that lets you soar around the peak. In summer, the slopes are dotted with blacknose sheep, gentle mountain mascots that charm every visitor, while in winter the Gornergrat transforms into a snowy playground with snowshoeing trails and high-speed sledging runs. This train ride is a comprehensive alpine encounter, immersive and unforgettable.

Dinner should be an affair. Consider After Seven, Zermatt’s Michelin-starred dining room where tasting menus are served with mountain theatre, or head to Restaurant Schäferstube, famed for lamb raised in the local valleys. Afterwards, sink into the thermal waters at the Vernissage Spa at Backstage Hotel, where outdoor whirlpools gaze directly at the Matterhorn and fire pits glow against the alpine night. It is hard to imagine a more civilised conclusion to your first day.

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Above Zermatt’s Michelin-starred dining room, After Seven

Day Two: The Matterhorn Alpine Crossing

Begin with a hearty breakfast — bircher muesli studded with nuts and berries, platters of Alpine cheese and freshly baked rye bread — before setting off on the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing (matterhornparadise.ch), a full-day adventure linking Switzerland and Italy.

The journey begins with a cable car ascent to Schwarzsee, the closest vantage point to the Matterhorn, where the pyramid-shaped peak feels almost within reach. Continue upwards to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, Europe’s highest mountain station at 3,883 metres, where the viewing platform delivers a panorama of 14 glaciers and 38 peaks over 4,000 metres. Below, the Glacier Palace beckons with ice tunnels and crystalline sculptures lit like a frozen cathedral. On the SnowXperience Plateau Rosa, visitors can try skiing or snowboarding year-round, even without prior experience. Finally, at Testa Grigia, the border crossing into Italy, the landscape shifts — the signage, the accents, and eventually, the cuisine.

By lunchtime, descend into Cervinia, where alpine flavours give way to Italian indulgence. Sit down at a trattoria for handmade tagliatelle tossed with porcini mushrooms, followed by a Piedmontese risotto and a glass of Nebbiolo. It is the perfect punctuation to a day that unites two nations, two culinary traditions and one unforgettable mountain.

Return to Zermatt in the late afternoon, when the light softens across the glaciers, tinting the Alps in shades of rose and gold. Keep dinner relaxed and convivial with raclette at Whymper-Stube, a rustic favourite where molten cheese, potatoes and wine are shared in true Swiss spirit.

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Above One of Zermatt's most popular attractions, Glacier Palace

Day Three: Sunnegga, Leisee & Findeln

On your final morning, take the underground funicular that whisks you from Zermatt to Sunnegga in just five minutes. Known as the “sunny corner,” it offers sweeping views of the Matterhorn and access to Leisee Lake, where the mountain reflects like a mirror on clear days. Families picnic here in summer, while walkers and photographers linger for that perfect alpine snapshot.

From Leisee, follow a gentle trail down to Findeln, a cluster of hamlets celebrated for their gastronomy. Two of Zermatt’s most iconic restaurants are found here: Chez Vrony, where organic produce from the family farm is transformed into refined plates, or Findlerhof, which balances rustic heartiness with one of the most beautiful terraces in the Alps. A long lunch here — warm breads, mountain cheese, cured meats from the Valais and apple strudel for dessert — feels like Zermatt’s essence, distilled.

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Above Chez Vrony in Zermatt

In the afternoon, return to the village for a final wander along Bahnhofstrasse, browsing boutiques and perhaps picking up artisanal chocolate to carry home. As evening falls, close your stay with one last indulgence: rösti at Restaurant Walliserkanne, served golden and crisp, crowned with cheese or bacon. Before you leave, make time for one last glance.

Under moonlight, the Matterhorn is less a mountain than a silhouette against eternity, a reminder that in Zermatt, nature always has the last word. This village has a way of slowing you down: with no cars to intrude, life falls into an Alpine rhythm of sleigh bells at dusk, firelight at dinner, and the soft murmur of voices over wine. Three days may not conquer the Alps, but it will leave you with a sense of timelessness in the shadow of the world’s most famous peak.