Cover Amansara in Siem Reap, Cambodia
Amansara in Siem Reap, Cambodia
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Deep in the Cambodian jungle, where thousand-year-old temples whisper through the trees, Amansara offers a new kind of pilgrimage: one that balances the thrill of a half marathon with the quiet luxury of a former royal retreat.
Amansara, meaning “heavenly peace,” lives up to its name. Aman’s luxury residence in the heart of spiritual Siem Reap is designed to evoke a sense of royal calm from the very beginning. That feeling starts the moment you land at Siem Reap Angkor International Airport, where a white-gloved driver greets you in a classic 1965 Mercedes-Benz limousine once owned by King Sihanouk—the late Cambodian monarch who witnessed the country pass through no fewer than eight political regimes during his lifetime.
After a short drive, we arrived at an unassuming black door. It’s so discreet that, if you didn’t already know it was there, you might have never guessed Amansara lay behind it. The low-key entrance makes sense: the property was once a royal summer residence, where the King himself welcomed guests in search of rest and renewal.
See also: Inside Amanbagh, a garden oasis in the foothills of rural Rajasthan
Above Entering Amansara (Photo: Kenny X. Li)
Entering Amansara (Photo: Kenny X. Li)
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Upon arrival, I was greeted by name with an herbal drink and a cool lemongrass-scented towel. The staff embody that elusive Aman quality—intuitive, almost anticipatory hospitality. It is very human scale, and rightfully so, given that Amansara feels more like a private residence than a hotel.
Originally home to just 12 suites, this 1960s New Khmer architectural gem was eventually left to ruin. By the time Aman stepped in in the early 2000s, vegetation had begun to reclaim the building, much like the nearby temples of Angkor. Rather than erase that atmosphere, the group chose to preserve the residence’s smooth white curves, mature trees woven into the architecture, dark timber details, and still reflecting ponds—elements that sustain its sense of calm. Amansara reopened in 2003 with its original suites, before an extension in the same style, designed by French architect Laurent Mondet, added 12 pool suites in 2006. One of those pool suites would be ours for the next two nights.
Our suitcases had already arrived, newly fitted with Amansara-branded leather luggage tags. The open-plan suite featured a king size bed, writing desk, chairs and sofa, a freestanding bath, and his-and-hers sinks, with a separate room for the shower and a Japanese toilet. Soft Buddhist chants played as we walked in and, and in true Aman fashion, there was no television. Instead, the suite opened onto a private courtyard with a plunge pool. Waiting for us were light snacks and a selection of running gels, accompanied by a thoughtful note.
Above Suites at Amansara
Suites at Amansara
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I should mention that we arrived just in time for the Angkor Wat International Half Marathon, where dozens of Amansara staff—along with myself—took part across the different race distances. The hotel proved the perfect landing point: a place where time slows and the breath deepens.
After a light meal, Amansara arranged a hybrid tour around Angkor with our guide, Kim—a local TikTok celebrity who shares his knowledge of Khmer culture with thousands of followers. And he delivered. I had visited Angkor a decade ago, but Kim made me rediscover it with a renewed sense of wonder. After all, only the truly blasé could fail to be moved by a UNESCO World Heritage Site like this.
Often dubbed the “eighth wonder of the world,” the Angkor complex took an estimated 300,000 workers and 6,000 elephants to build, serving as the capital of the Khmer Empire between the 9th and 15th centuries, when it ranked among the most powerful civilisations on earth. At its heart stands Angkor Wat, the largest religious monument in the world.
These ruins—whether first encountered in history class, through Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001), or even games like Temple Run—are scattered across a jungle site roughly the size of Paris, and remain utterly mesmerising. We cycled past hidden temples, sipped coconut water from the back of a remok (Cambodian tuk-tuk), and followed kilometres of carved murals, drawn into a lively history lesson as the sun set over Angkor Wat. We were acutely aware of our privilege in being able to experience it at all, given how tensions along the Thai border have disrupted local life, and tourism.
Above Kim, our guide at Amansara (Photo: Kenny X. Li)
Kim, our guide at Amansara (Photo: Kenny X. Li)
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On our return, the staff welcomed us back with a choice of a special “load-carb” dinner and a tailored 4 a.m. breakfast for race day—a thoughtful kind of pampering that allowed my mind to drift between the serenity of Angkor and the anticipation of the race.
The next morning, 4 a.m. arrived far too quickly, but the suite’s comfortable bed had allowed for solid sleep. Being closer to Angkor Wat than most hotels meant we didn’t have to leave too early, and a small blanket had been thoughtfully placed on the remok as temperatures hovered around 20°C.
December is an ideal time to visit Cambodia, with average temperatures around 26°C, low humidity, sunny skies, and a gentle breeze. The race began at 5:30 a.m., perfectly timed with sunrise over Angkor Wat—and, as expected, it was breathtaking.
Two hours later, I crossed the finish line and was warmly greeted by Amansara staff with snacks, coconut water, and smiles. Back at the hotel, a full breakfast and a post-run massage awaited—the perfect recovery.
Above The pool at Amansara
The pool at Amansara
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The spa draws on Khmer healing traditions—herbal compresses, warm coconut oils, and rhythmic pressure that ease the body into a slow, blissful sigh. I indulged in a dry Khmer massage to release post-run tension; my therapist was firm and intuitive. Treatments use traditional Cambodian techniques and Aman’s all-natural skincare products, while guests can also experience forest bathing, walking meditation, or Buddhist water blessings beside a serene reflecting pond.
Beyond massages, Amansara offers facials, yoga and movement sessions, a fully equipped fitness centre, and two swimming pools, including a 25-metre lap pool. They even offered to book a fortune teller—because these days, spiritual wellness seems as essential as caring for the body and mind.
Above Amansara's cylindrical dining room
Amansara's cylindrical dining room
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After a well deserved lazy rest of the day, dipping into the private swimming pool, reading under the Cambodian sun and walking through the library, we headed to the cylindrical dining room, once King Sihanouk’s screening room. Dinner, prepared by Chennai-born chef Sattar Seikh Rabul, highlights traditional Khmer dishes alongside international cuisine and the chef’s native Indian specialties. We sampled the Cambodian beef lok lak and poached prawn and pomelo salad, accompanied by a well-earned glass of wine.
After a final night swim in the private pool and a good night’s sleep, I departed the residence the next morning in the same classic Mercedes that had welcomed me. Staying at Amansara was a true pleasure: the residence combines Cambodia’s rich history and royal heritage with mid-century architecture and modern wellness. For athletes, wellness enthusiasts, or anyone seeking a peaceful retreat, it offers a rare balance of rest, recovery, and thoughtful design.
Salomé Grouard was Digital Editor and Front & Female Content Lead at Tatler Hong Kong. Primarily focused on managing Tatler Hong Kong’s digital platform and content, she also covers gender equality, the music scene and sports through interviews with industry leaders, experts and trendsetters.
Interview highlights include renowned conservationist Dr Jane Goodall, Korean actor Park Seo Jun, singer Jorja Smith, Chinese TV host Yue-Sai Kan, YouTuber Kimono Mom, Japanese rapper Awich, and Brazilian jiu-jitsu fighter Mikey Musumeci.
She has also produced stories on revolutionising sexual wellness in Asia, activism within the surfing community, Asian trans musicians reclaiming their narratives through music and looked at the toxicity of gym culture through the lens of the plus-size community. She also covers music festivals, such as Hong Kong’s Clockenflap and Bali’s Suara.
