Cover Amanbagh, an oasis in rural Rajasthan
Amanbagh, an oasis in rural Rajasthan
1 / 1
A former tiger hunting lodge for the Maharaja, Amanbagh seamlessly blends old-world elegance with modern comforts
The hour-long journey from the colourful cacophony of Jaipur to Amanbagh winds through dirt roads lined with mischievous monkeys, herds of goats, and humble shops selling carved marble.
While a charming feast for the senses, there is hardly any indication that a luxury resort could possibly be in the midst of this rural patch of Rajasthan. But, as all aficionados of Aman properties know, the ultra-luxury hospitality group is well known for their unexpected choice of settings that are often not only pristine, but essential to appreciating a region.
Just as I was about to be lulled into a nap by the hum of the engine, we turned down a ragged road past vibrant mustard fields. The car nears a structure not unlike a stately home, or haveli, and I am once again awestruck by what Aman has conjured—a hidden oasis once the 19th-century hunting lodge of Maharaja Jai Singh of Alwar, its bulbous, terracotta domes peeking out of the mist like a mirage.
See also: Capella at Galaxy Macau is the change the city's been waiting for
Above Amanbagh boast palatial accommodations
Amanbagh boast palatial accommodations
1 / 2
There is a familiar sense of security when you know you’re about to stay at an Aman hotel, as well as a promise of peace (which was much needed for this writer who had just attended an Indian wedding in the historic capital). As we were greeted with a Sanskrit song and blessing ceremony—a welcome into the Aman family—the excitement from the last few days gave way to serenity, like a weary traveller returning home.
Walking through the vaulted entrance and into the courtyard lined with columned paths, those who have stayed at Amanpuri in Phuket or Amanzoe in Athens might recognise renowned architect Ed Tuttle’s handiwork. A long-time Aman collaborator, Tuttle’s love of clean lines and seamless blend of nature is on full display at Amanbagh, where Mughal-inspired shapes find harmony with modern minimalism.
Our pool pavillion, one of 37 suites and pavilions, was a little palace in itself. A polished bathroom featuring a viridian bathtub carved from Udaipur marble, looked up to a small window in the vaulted ceiling where moonlight would shine through as you have your midnight soak. Wooden latticed box lights, a grand, scalloped mirror, and a generous daybed are the only decorative touches of the inviting bedroom, which faced our private pool and dining nook.
Above A pavilion at Amanbagh
A pavilion at Amanbagh
1 / 1
The nook would have to wait, however, as we were whisked up to the top of the second-story library of the main building that evening, where the staff had organised a private dinner overlooking the candle-lined pool as musicians strummed softly on the sitar.
Eager to take advantage of the local cuisine, we feasted on the most succulent butter chicken we had ever had, hearty lamb biryani as if from a grandmother’s recipe and sampled local Rajasthani thali. Most dishes are freshly made from ingredients plucked straight from the property’s lush gardens, and while you should definitely indulge in regional dishes where possible, there are plenty of international favourites from pasta to burgers for those who need a little respite from the spice.
The library is only one of several idyllic spots where one could enjoy an exclusive dining experience; another takes you to the foothills of the haunted ancient city of Bhangarh where you could combine a visit to the fortress with a picnic, while yet another takes you to an ancient stone gazebo, or chhatri, surrounded by diya lamps as you dine under the stars.
Amanbagh’s location, as one can surmise, was not chosen by chance. Strategically set amongst ancient temples and striking stepwells where history buffs could organise day trips to and from, it is also a mere 45 minute drive in one of Amanbagh’s fleet of jeeps to Sariska Tiger Reserve where lucky visitors might spot the elusive king of the jungle. Those keen on spending more time with the striped animals, however, should consider staying at Aman-i-Khas, the luxury tented sister property best known for its tiger safari in Ranthambore National Park.
Above Amanbagh's iconic swimming pool
Amanbagh's iconic swimming pool
1 / 2
And for those looking to take advantage of the relaxing atmosphere of the property, there are Wellness Immersion programmes as well as spa treatments from herbal oil to sound therapy, all grounded in Ayurvedic practices to help you achieve holistic wellness.
The next morning we awoke to a fog that added to the mysticism of the resort. Exiting our room, we found no “do not disturb” or “make up my room” signs because our whereabouts—and preferences—are known to the attentive staff at all times. After all, discreet service is a point of pride for the Aman brand, and our every need was met throughout our stay, often even without request (sunscreen and waters would appear next to the lounge chair moments after we set down our bags).
As we sauntered towards the restaurant for breakfast, we found ourselves in awe of our view as we soaked in the scenery: steam swirling around a perfectly still pool at the heart of the property, the reflection of iconic dusty pink columns and majestic arches spilling into its blue-tiled waters. Ornate jewellery sparkled from the resident shop’s vitrines with wares from Jaipur’s famed Gem Palace. Parakeets flitted between swaying palm trees as dusty beams of light poured through the valleys in the distance. I rub my eyes, not convinced this isn’t all a dream.
Rosana (Rosie) is the former Fashion Director for Tatler Asia. Formerly located in Hong Kong, Rosie now lives in London, UK.
