The chef behind two Michelin-starred Villa Feltrinelli shares why he loves the cuisine of his people and his surprising disdain for cheese
The mastermind behind Villa Feltrinelli in Gargnano, Italy was in Kuala Lumpur where he took over the kitchen of Mandarin Grill at the Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur from November 21-27, 2022. Stefano Baiocco, whose restaurant earned two Michelin stars for its Italian and Mediteranean cuisine, cut his teeth at such acclaimed restaurants as Pascal Barbot’s L’Astranc and Yoshihiro Murata's Kikunoi.
See also: Chef Nobu Matsuhisa Reveals His Most Memorable Meals
He presented diners at Mandarin Grill some of his signature dishes with an a la carte menu at lunch and a degustation menu at dinner. To celebrate his visit here, we asked Baiocco some food-related questions.
The most memorable meal he has ever prepared
"At Villa Feltrinelli, we have served some beautiful tasting menus. I have also moved several times to New York, Paris, Tokyo and Hong Kong for high level events and dinners. Since I am always on the move, especially in my head, I'd like to think that my best meal is yet to come."
The most memorable meal he has ever eaten
"I have had many beautiful experiences in Italy, but I tend to remember the ones abroad, perhaps because the distance from home made the experiences seem more complete. I remember a great lunch that had many vegetables at Blue Hill outside New York.
Another one is definitely a dinner in Paris by Pierre Gagnaire, a former teacher of mine. His ability to continually push himself and to always remain current is incredible. Then there is a dinner at Ryugin in Tokyo that was elegant and refined."
What he would have for his last meal
"I have no idea. I can't plan it, but it would definitely be something freshly picked or caught on the same day!"
An ingredient he can't live without

Above Baiocco cut his teeth in some of the most famous restaurants in the world
"As is well known, I like to cook and use olive oil and aromatic herbs, which allow for freshness, taste, and aesthetics without weighing the dishes down too much. But I believe that everything can be renounced, it is always a matter of habit—just be flexible.
This might sound strange but I don't particularly like cheese, especially strong cheeses like pecorino, goat and blue cheese. I would have liked to appreciate them more, but I'm afraid that my wish will never come true!"
The restaurant at the top of his must-try list
"Impossible to answer. It would be like asking a mother which child she loves most!"
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Credits
Images: Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur







