Cover Chef Nobu Matsuhisa

The inimitable Japanese chef was in town during the F1 weekend to catch the races and cook at the Paddock Club. We sat down with him to find out his secrets to running a successful restaurant empire

Who would have ever thought that a single restaurant that opened in New York almost three decades ago would eventually morph into an international Japanese icon? The prolific chef at this celebrity-obsessed chain is the one and only Nobu Matsuhisa, the 73-year-old genius who reshaped sushi into a modern global phenomenon. Since day one, the swanky chain has amassed a dedicated following of A-listers (silver-screen icon Robert De Niro is one of their business partners) and culinary scenesters around the world, who laud Nobu’s artsy inspired plating and dishes which harmonise rich textures and flavour palettes. A single meal at the legendary establishment allows guests to experience Nobu’s mastery of the craft, where he intricately weaves a tapestry of Japanese techniques and tastes in all of his dishes like his inimitable black miso cod and ​hamachi with jalapeño.

And the voguish restaurant chain looks like a million bucks, with its über-mod yet earthy decor and sleek interiors. Nightly, the well-heeled fill the space, decked in their finest fripperies. Like bees to a honeypot, these regulars keep flocking back for more. According to ​​celebrities who have dined at various outlets across the globe—every Nobu is exactly the same.

We found the perfect opportunity to ask the man himself about maintaining consistency and running a successful restaurant empire when he was in town during the F1 weekend. Read on to find out what he shared.

Read more: Inside Johnnie Walker’s Blue Vault Dinner With Tatler at Nobu Singapore

 

Tatler Asia
New-style sashimi
Above New-style sashimi

Your cuisine is Japanese-Peruvian. Why do you think this resonates with gourmands? And what makes it relevant until now?

Nobu Matsuhisa (NM): We use the best products. Our food is simple; it’s easy to eat, healthy, and tasty. We have so many different dishes, so customers can try different things, seven days a week. What makes us resonate with gourmands is how we are unique. Our food is Japanese, combined with influences from different countries. I am always looking for something new for my customers. During team meetings, we try to create new dishes. Above all, our dishes are timeless. We have our regular guests eating the same dishes, and even their children have grown up eating our food without getting tired of it.

What keeps diners coming back for more?

NM: They enjoy the food and they feel comfortable being here. This is a Nobu concept: we cook from the bottom of the heart, and that's why customers keep coming back. The menu is large enough for people to keep coming back. If you want to eat light, you can; if you want to eat heavy, you also can. Nobu was one of the first places that served Japanese food with background music. We are excited because there is a lot of energy among the staff. There’s a lot happening the minute you enter our restaurant. It’s a vibe.

In case you missed it: The Best Japanese Restaurants in Singapore for the Freshest Sushi

Tatler Asia
Above Nobu Matsuhisa preparing sushi

What took you so long to open in Singapore?

NM: (Laughs) It was not my fault! Mr Ong and I opened Nobu London in Old Park Lane in 1997 and Nobu kept growing. Although I did get an offer from another company (earlier) to open in Singapore; since I already had a partnership with Mr Ong, I decided to decline. Then, he finally asked us to open in Singapore…so here we are.

Have you made adjustments to the food to cater to the local palate?

NM: We didn’t change the basic concept. All the Nobus across the globe have our signature dishes. Of course, we use local products as much as possible. Our team is still thinking about incorporating more new dishes for Singapore.

The Japanese dining scene here is very competitive, how do you carve your niche in this market?

NM: Many Japanese restaurants in Singapore are very traditional. I don’t like to call my food fusion, but I like to call it the “Nobu style of food”. For example, we take ingredients like black bean sauce, foie gras… and combine this with Japanese culinary techniques. Other restaurants in Singapore are very “Japanese”, and quite basic. Our younger consumers like this “Nobu style” of food. Since day one, we never changed the concept, and it has successfully spawned all throughout the world.

Tatler Asia
Black cod miso
Above Black cod miso

How do you keep things fresh and exciting for gourmands?

NM: The black cod miso is timeless and people keep returning for it. We have the best product and use the best cooking techniques. Its popularity speaks for itself. Simple food is something people constantly eat and do not get tired of. Nobu’s style is simple and clean.

Have you debuted exclusive dishes to Singapore?

NM: There are already two dishes. The kampachi sashimi with chilli ponzu and the Chilean seabass with spicy cilantro. Since we just opened not too long ago, we will take it one step at a time. Little by little, we might make changes, but not right now. We don’t want to confuse our customers. Maybe next year, we might have more exclusive dishes.

How do you ensure consistency with all your restaurants across the world?

NM: Every Nobu restaurant has a chef that has already gained experience working in another Nobu in another country. They clearly know the Nobu DNA, thus they will be able to coach the others. Also, we use the same products all over the world. We control the products. On occasion, I will also travel around to the different restaurants to ensure everything remains the same and to fix any possible glitches.

Tatler Asia
Nobu Matsuhisa with business partner, Robert De Niro
Above Nobu Matsuhisa with business partner, Robert De Niro

Why did you decide to debut the first chef’s table in Singapore?

NM: The partner wanted to. He is Singaporean, so he knows what Singaporeans like! I tried cooking here on my first night and I loved it! Plus the Nobu in Singapore has a really huge kitchen…

Will this be available in other countries in the near future?

NM: Maybe. It sounds good!

Your staff has been with you for a very long time, how do you take care of staff?

NM:  Some of them have been with me for as long as 28 years. When I was young, someone supported me and gave me a chance. That’s how I got to Peru, opened my restaurant in New York, and got to this stage. 

Now that I am in this position, I would like to give a chance to the next generation. I will give you the key, but you must open the door and do the rest by yourself. Not everyone gets that chance to get to where they want to be. At Nobu, we have a lot of opportunities for people to go on to the next step in their careers. This is Nobu’s company philosophy. I believe that happy staff will work hard.

What are your secrets to a successful restaurant empire?

NM: First of all, having a good team is paramount. Our chefs must cook with heart and passion. Businesses are about our customers. Good food and good service translate to happy customers, and they will come back again. 

As a chef, I love cooking and I always try my best (in what I do). As a chef, you might have the cooking technique, but while these make beautiful food, sometimes you just don’t taste much. Passion is something that cannot be seen, but can be tasted just like a piece of art or music. 

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