ATOH Chef Anton Dayrit Photo Anna Frumenti
Cover Chef Anton Dayrit (Photo: Anna Frumenti)

You can take the man out of Manila, but he’ll still long for callos, lengua, and the classic dishes from these nostalgia-inducing restaurants:

Chef Anton Dayrit's love for food started where most foodie chronicles begin—in his own home, through his mother's cooking. Enamoured by the homecooked Filipino-Spanish comfort food he grew up with, Dayrit would later refine his culinary know-how in New York, training at the French Culinary Institute before working in the kitchens of chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurants ABC Kitchen and the eponymous Jean-Georges, as well as the late chef Floyd Cardoz's Tabla among others.

Then, with the help of fellow Filipinos, chef Bianca Vicente and Department of Tourism marketing coordinator Joey Chanco, Dayrit opened the doors to his own Filipino fast-casual concept, Tradisyon. Specialising in rice bowls like crispy beef salpicao and squid adobo, plus other essential Pinoy comfort fare including pancit palabok and sinigang na baka, the restaurant is a sincere expression of the flavours Dayrit so direly missed.

See also: A Taste of Home with Chef John Rivera of Melbourne's Kariton Sorbetes

“Combining fresh, quality ingredients with authentic flavours, Tradisyon is here to make traditional Filipino food known and accessible,” reads the restaurant’s website. “Located in Hell’s Kitchen, these are inspired and meticulously crafted bowls that lola would definitely be proud of.”

Get to know chef Anton Dayrit and his favourite, time-tested restaurants in Metro Manila, below:

See also: The Secret to Longevity in F&B: Hear From Mario’s, Alba’s, and The Aristocrat Restaurant

What do you miss most on the food drink front when you are away from the Philippines?

The food that I miss the most is my mom’s cooking, especially her callos and lengua. Thankfully, I am now able to replicate her lengua dish. I think the one dish I miss most however is her chicken relleno with that gravy sauce!

What is the first dish you want to eat when you return to the Philippines and where do you go for it?

So I miss my mom’s chicken relleno the most. The succulent stuffed chicken with raisins, meat, eggs, chorizo…then she gathers all the drippings and turns them into this gravy sauce with a little Knorr seasoning and butter. She would cook it as soon as I get home from basketball, and it’s also a dish we usually have during the holidays. She would always cook it whenever we asked!

See also: 17 Nostalgic Eateries We Will Always Remember

Do you have a favourite restaurant in the Philippines for fine dining and for more casual experiences?

My favourite restaurants in Manila before leaving for New York in 2007 were Melo’s Steakhouse of my tito Melo Santiago, Mario’s, and Club Filipino. Club Filipino’s Caesar salad is one of my favourites. Also Le Soufflé! At that time, there weren’t a lot of fine dining restaurants to choose from.

For casual eats, marami yan [there are a lot]. President in Binondo, Ayce near Ultra for sisig, Cyma by my friend chef Robby Goco for Greek, Leslie’s in Tagaytay for the sizzling bulalo, and dampa in Macapagal for the best seafood.

If you have visitors or guests with you where do you go to give them a real taste of the Philippines?

In New York, of course, my restaurant Tradisyon, hehe. But if I have visitors in the Philippines, then I would probably recommend my really good friend JP Anglo’s place, Sarsa for a modern take on Filipino food. And for traditional, Abe in Serendra.

Where do you like to meet up with old friends for food or drinks in the Philippines?

Il Ponticello [which is now closed], Draft, and Tipsy Pig.

See also: Sorry We're Closed: Tatler Pays Homage to Restaurants We've Lost During The Pandemic

Do you take any food or treats back home with you to the Philippines? 

Not usually, but if I could take back anything I would bring with me all the bottled sardinas and aligue from the Philippines.

Where do you go to find authentic flavours of home where you live?  

My wife and I live near Chinatown, so I get a lot of Asian ingredients from this grocery called Asia Market whenever I cook at home.

NOW READ

Filipino Restaurant Gugu Room Opens in New York City

A Taste of Home With Drew Barrymore's Chef, Filipina Pilar Valdes

August Dining Radar 2022: New Bars, Tasting Menus, and Cafés to Try This Month

Topics