Cover Yakitori (Photo: Kemuri)
Yakitori (Photo: Kemuri)
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Despite its seedy reputation, gourmands and tourists alike still flock to this part of Orchard to dine at some of the best Japanese restaurants on the island
Long before Orchard Plaza earned its reputation as the “Little Japan” of Singapore, there was Cuppage Plaza, an old and dreary shopping mall built in 1983, which has become the home of some of the island’s most authentic Japanese restaurants. In fact, some of these tables are so exclusive that you need to be an insider or “know someone” from the industry just to be able to score reservations.
Even Japanese bartenders and chefs can’t resist the allure of these dining tables, so we’ve asked them to share their favourite restaurants and bars to visit whenever they’re in the area.
Read on to find out their picks below.
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1. Yakiniku Jan Jan
Makoto Arami, chef-director, AMI Patisserie
“Yakiniku Jan Jan serves authentic and tasty Japanese yakiniku at great value, and the staff here are very friendly. I recommend the Jo Tongue, an exceptional beef tongue cut that’s considered a delicacy, and the chefs have chosen to use Omi beef from my home prefecture of Shiga. Most of the top quality meat used at Yakiniku Jan Jan are sourced from there.
If you go by on a weekend, do order their Weekend Special Ramen. Yakiniku Jan Jan has a ramen master chef, chef Hashimoto, who is my friend. He is from Niigata prefecture and used to work at Sanpoutei, so he makes very nice Niigata-style dried sardine and seafood flavoured shoyu ramen.”
Yakiniku Jan Jan
Address: 43 Cuppage Road, Cuppage Terrace, S(229463); +65 9671 0100
2. Kazu Sumiyaki Restaurant
Akane Eno, chef, Ichigo Ichie
Kazu Sumiyaki Restaurant is an institution at Cuppage Plaza, having occupied the same unit in the food haven for two decades. It’s no surprise that it has survived the ebb and flow of the F&B industry, as it continues to serve high quality dishes such as the grilled foie gras, marinated beef tongue and Spanish mackerel crowned with ikura.
One of its regular guests is Akane Eno, the chef at Ichigo Ichie who likes the restaurant’s atmosphere and enjoys good food and warm hospitality. She shares: “The sumiyaki there are all good, and I especially like the tsukune, one of their most popular items.”
Kazu Sumiyaki Restaurant
Address: 5 Koek Road, 04-05 Cuppage Plaza, S(228796); +65 6734 2492
3. Kemuri
Shingo Iijima, head chef, Fat Cow
“This hidden gem is an omakase restaurant that specialises in yakitori. The cooking techniques here are top-notch, thanks to head chef and yakitori specialist Michio “Mitchy” Murakami, who honed his skills in Singapore for 15 years. He carefully adjusts the grilling techniques to match the unique characteristics of each ingredient. On top of that, they have attentive service staff who are well-versed in sake offerings.
I opted for its unique “Until You Say Stop” style omakase, where the chefs continuously serve the finest selections of Yakitori until you request for them to stop. Two yakitori dishes stood out for me: the tsukune and shiitake mushrooms. The tsukune (a Japanese-style chicken meatball) was flavourful and had a delicate texture that melted in the mouth—it felt like I was eating a mousse. Although simple, the shiitake mushrooms surprised me with their richness. Each bite released so much juice that one might mistake it for a soup dish.
To complement this high-quality omakase experience, the recommended sake was Denshu Tokubetsu Junmai. What impressed me was how the saltiness of the yakitori and the sweetness of the yakitori sauce in each dish were meticulously adjusted to harmonise with the sake or wine of your choice. The thoughtful pairing allowed me to enjoy the flavours without losing their freshness until the very end of the meal.”
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Kazuhiro Chii, head bartender, Bar Kakure
“The quality of yakitori is fundamentally influenced by the skill of the chef, and chef Murakami at Kemuri is, in my opinion, the best yakitori chef in Singapore. He’s a man of few words, but his craftsmanship speaks volumes. His reserved demeanor contributes to his artisan aura, and this, combined with the chic interior of the establishment, enhances the overall dining experience.
While Kemuri primarily operates on an omakase menu, where each dish is a part of the chef’s storytelling through yakitori, if I had to highlight a single dish, it would be tsukune. This dish encapsulates the chef’s expertise, delivering a soft and juicy experience that truly showcases his culinary skills.”
Kemuri
Address: 5 Koek Road, 04-02 Cuppage Plaza, S(228796); +65 9772 4300
4. Cable car 1890’s Saloon
Makoto Arami, chef-director, Ami Patisserie
The Singapore outpost of one of the oldest bars in Yokohama, Japan’s Chinatown serves a wide range of cocktails as well as more than 350 spirits and liquors procured from around the world. “It’s a great bar to unwind at after a long day at work,” shares Arami, and it helps that the cosy ambience fashioned after watering holes in San Francisco and the lively atmosphere will help you forget about the passage of time. Whenever Arami visits after work, he often orders the karaage with a glass Highball. “This combination is a very Japanese style of ordering in an izakaya, so you must try it as well.”
Cable car 1890’s Saloon
Address: 49 Cuppage Road, S(229466); +65 9101 3415
5. Izakaya Naniwa
Akane Eno, chef, Ichigo Ichie
“Izakaya Naniwa is another one of my favourite places at Cuppage Plaza. It is a great place to go to relax on my days off,” enthuses Eno, who enjoys its izakaya concept and extensive menu of meaty offerings that are well marinated. “I would highly recommend the wide variety of obanzai of the day,” adds Eno. Even better, you’ll be well taken care of by the friendly staff “with a great sense of hospitality”.
Izakaya Naniwa
Address: 5 Koek Road, 03-13 Cuppage Plaza, S(228796); +65 9007 1889
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Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.
