Cover Carilleras con polenta (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Carilleras con polenta (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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Tatler+
Chef Albert Mendoza talks to Tatler Philippines about Txoko Asador’s latest lineup joining the restaurant’s classics
Among the well-travelled streets of Makati lie the familiar and welcoming doors of Txoko Asador. It’s a beloved establishment that has seen countless celebrations and intimate evenings that remain fresh in its patrons’ minds. It draws you in with a friendly atmosphere and captivates you with its Basque and Castilian cuisine. As it starts the new year, new dishes join its longtime classics on a reimagined menu. Grupo Pintxos general manager and executive chef Albert Mendoza shares with Tatler what’s in store for diners and about his time with the restaurant group.
Mendoza’s fascination with food blossomed after he tried his first steak at 11 years old. This feeling persisted up until he was a psychology major, but he ultimately shifted to a culinary track. After graduating from the Center of Culinary Arts (CCA), he worked with a variety of restaurants, where he eventually found an affinity for Spanish cuisine. He joined the Grupo Pintxos first as a research and development chef, before eventually becoming an executive chef and its general manager.
“I think the most enduring struggle I have in being a chef is that I’m a little anxious from time to time, and I’m often afraid of other people’s comments,” Mendoza shares. “But at the end of the day, my biggest critic that pushes me to move forward is my fiancée. Every time I do a certain dish, I would write it on a note, have her look at it, and if she says, ‘This is going to work’, that’s what gives me the strength to proceed with my current project.”
Above Anchoa pintxo (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Above Pan con tomate y jamón (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Anchoa pintxo (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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In developing new menus for Txoko Asador, Mendoza draws inspiration from Japanese cuisine, which he views as very similar to Spanish cuisine. “I want the dishes to [not just] taste good on their own but to highlight and enhance it with other ingredients,” he explained. “I try not to overcompensate it with 15 or 20 other ingredients. It should be clean, complementing, and not too overpowering or jarring.”
The meal begins without even entering the restaurant. Approaching the doors of Txoko Asador feels like coming home, with a simple yet elegant facade that beckons you to its hospitable interiors. The wide, single hall enhances that feeling of companionship and togetherness, but those seeking a more secluded setting will appreciate one of the establishment’s private dining rooms.
Above Foie pintxo (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Foie pintxo (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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Starters / Entrada
Above Fabada Asturiana (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Above Tortilla de patatas con papada (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Fabada Asturiana (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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All paired with a Bordón Viña Sole 2018
The foie pintxo is perhaps the best insight into the essence of Txoko Asador, and it sets the expectations that diners will have. The refined foie meshes exceptionally well with the sweetness and slight tang of the apple compote. It is pressed together between two pieces of chicken skin for a sinful finish. Likewise, the anchoa pintxo showcases the intensity and heat of the anchovies alongside the lightness of butter and its tomato bread. Interestingly, it’s also a personal favourite of Mendoza’s.
“I really enjoy it, and I find that the specific anchovy that we use is very plump. Juicier,” he remarked. “Overall, I think it’s an outstanding dish.”
Meanwhile, the pan con tomate y jamón remains an old favourite. Underneath the velvety layers of ham lies a burst of flavour, and the best way to savour the juices within is to eat it in a single, delicious bite. A newcomer onto the menu, their fabada Asturiana is a slowly-simmered bean stew offering a heartier contrast. The robust blood sausage complements the more subtle undertones of the beans and bacon, and the interplay of textures is fun, exciting, and inventive.
A salty, cured pig jowl is the star in the next bite and one their latest additions, the tortilla de patatas con papada, served on top of a bed of eggs and fried potato hay.
Paella
Above Iberico paella (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Iberico paella (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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Joining the dining establishment’s array of options is the Ibérico paella. Filling arroz bomba rice and tender Iberico steak are served with a healthy serving of bone marrow. It’s a delightfully tempting dish, which alone makes the trip to Txoko Asador well worth it.
In case you missed it: Tatler Dining presents Flavours of Martell year 2: Experience special set menus from February 1-28
Mains / Principal
Above Pierna de cordero (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Above Lenguado (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Pierna de cordero (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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All paired with a Bordon Gran Reserva 2013
One of the latest creations is the carilleras con polenta dish which features beef cheeks with a soft, almost gelatinous texture. The infusion of manchego cheese reinforces this smooth, melty, and creamy quality, and its sharp, salty flavour elevates the whole dish.
What’s not to love about a hearty serving of lamb shank? Another fresh item to the menu, the pierna de cordero is carefully slow-cooked over twelve days, which results in full, rich flavours. This is complemented by the similarly earthy truffle demi-glace, and the dish can be summed up in one word: divine.
Joining the hearty serving of lamb is the lenguado, a Spanish Dover sole fish served with garlic, lemon, and butter. Light, flaky, and delicate, it is an excellent subtle alternative to the more intense set of flavours available on the menu.
Postre / Dessert
Above Bombas con txokolate (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
Bombas con txokolate (Photo: courtesy of Txoko Asador)
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Their interpretation of the classic basque cheesecake is a soft finish to your meal. The burnt top makes it firm as your fork cuts into it until you reach the airy texture waiting underneath. It’s irresistibly fluffy and light, and partnered with sweet, tart strawberries which complete the bite.
Opposite the cheesecake is the bombas con txokolate, a panipuri served with chocolate ganache—both on top and below. The almonds give it that extra bit of texture, making it as delectable as fun it is to eat.
“I want our patrons to remember Txoko Asador as a place to celebrate milestones and victories,” Mendoza said. “It’s always there in that tiny little corner of Leviste; a place where you can experience Basque and Castillan cuisine in the heart of Metro Manila.”
Follow Txoko Asador on Facebook and Instagram @txokoasador. Drop by during Valentine’s Day for an exciting selection of Iberico.
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About
Tobias wants to write things that make people think, laugh, and reflect. He’s especially proud when he can sneak in a cheeky pop-culture reference or a pun in his titles and articles.
He possesses a deep love of history, resulting from years of books, games, and museum visits. It was this fascination with the human endeavour that fostered his love of writing, spanning genres, tones, and moods. He one day hopes to write a novel—he just hasn't decided on a genre yet. A certified homebody, you'll often find him on the computer he built himself, binge-watching Seinfeld or House, playing his favourite gacha game, or reading a book.
Work
Tobias is a features writer that specialises in branded content. Reach out to him at tobias.tomas@tatlerasia.com.
