Cover Brunch at Fysh at Edition, Josh Niland’s nose-to-tail sustainable restaurant in Singapore

Dine with a conscience at these sustainable establishments doing their part to take care of the planet

We only have one Earth, so we need to take care of it or we won’t have a home to live in. That is why it is important for us to commemorate Earth Day on April 22—an annual event celebrated since 1971, this year’s theme is “Invest in Our Planet”, and it encourages everyone to incorporate sustainable practices in our daily lives and help combat climate change.

In Singapore, many restaurants have joined this movement by creating innovative menus with Mother Earth in mind. This means going beyond sourcing for sustainable produce and making a conscious effort to limit food waste, provide meat-free options and invest in eco-friendly materials. We highlight five establishments at the forefront of sustainable dining practices on the island.

Read more: 9 Best Sustainable Stores and Grocers in Singapore

1. Air

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Above Whole grouper at Air, helmed by Matthew Orlando and Will Goldfarb, whose zero-waste philosophy is in service of new flavour

Celebrity chef-owners Matthew Orlando and Will Goldfarb don’t want to be didactic about how their new restaurant, Air, tries to be sustainable. They just want you to know that their brand of nose-to-tail cooking can yield incredibly delicious results. Orlando brings everything that he’s learnt about no-waste innovation from running Amass in Copenhagen to Dempsey Hill, which is how you get dishes like the whole grouper dish. The fillet is presented with a beurre blanc sauce, while the fish bones are inexplicably incorporated into the lavash that’s eaten with the smoked grouper rillette, made from the fish’s head and collar. 

Air, which stands for “awareness”, “impact” and “responsibility”, is also a cooking campus that’s constantly researching and developing ways to extract maximum flavour from what would typically be seen as waste products. Ingredients, as much as possible, are sourced from its very own garden in the 40,000-square-foot campus (set up by local urban farm City Sprouts), around Singapore (it counts mushroom farm Mushroom Buddies as a partner), or from around Southeast Asia to minimise carbon footprint. The furnishings seal the deal—the tables are made with recycled timbre and plastic bottles taken from a previous art installation, and under designer Andreu Carulla’s treatment, styrofoam furnishings are made into works of art. 

Air
Address: 25B Dempsey Road, S(249918), +65 8228 1528

2. Butcher’s Block

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Above Butcher’s Block’s new indoor vertical farm supplies the restaurant with its needed produce

At Butcher’s Block, a love and care of the land (aloha ‘āina and mālama ‘āina) guides chef de cuisine Jordan Keao’s Hawai’ian culinary identity, lending itself to the restaurant’s zero-waste approach. Now, he is taking it further with an indoor vertical farm not far from the restaurant’s home at Raffles Hotel Singapore. Constructed in partnership with vertical farm Farmd, the farm combines hydroponics with peat found only at about 20 metres below ground level, supplying the restaurant with nourished and seasonal vegetables and herbs that can be grown year-round—no more, no less. Using about 90 per cent less water than typical farming, this new approach complements Keao’s whole animal butchery, making sure that only the best arrives on your table.

Butcher’s Block
Western   |   $ $   |  

#02-02 to #02-07, Raffles Arcade, 328 North Bridge Rd, S (188719)

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3. Fysh at Edition

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Above Yellowfin tuna steak at Fysh at Edition, which operates a sustainable nose-to-tail philosophy

After perfecting his brand of whole fish butchery at his famed Australian restaurants Saint Peter, Petermen, and Charcoal Fish, celebrity chef Josh Niland has brought his scale-to-tail philosophy to his restaurant Fysh in Singapore. Only whole fish is used here, and is effectively treated like a land-based protein with the way that it is butchered and aged. The fillets, of course, are expertly prepared, like the signature dry-aged yellowfin tuna steak with café de Paris butter, while the heads, collars, and bones are used to make sauces. Look out for unusual dishes like the tuna eye ice cream as well, where Niland’s creativity is on display. Only the gills and gallbladders are not used in the restaurant, yielding about 90 per cent of the fish as opposed to about half that of traditional fillet cooking. 

Fysh at Edition
Address: 38 Cuscaden Road, S(249731), +65 6329 5000

4. Analogue Initiative

This bar at Chijmes managed to clinch the Ketel One Sustainable Bar Award 2023 by Asia’s 50 Best Bars, where it also enjoys its spot as the No. 15 best bar in Asia. Analogue Initiative offers a plant-based-only menu that’s just as delicious as a carnivorous one; take the “Nuggetz”, a plant-based version of a comfort food that’s addictive with the curry crack sauce. Or the dessert named “Fruit Rollups”, where citrus piths—the most wasted ingredient in bars—are boiled, candied, and emulsified in olive oil to create a cream that accompanies fruit leather rollups, which are also made from byproducts of a cocktail on its menu, “Cactus”. This same philosophy extends to the drinks as well—the “Wabi-Sabi”, for instance, is made with whatever ingredients and byproducts the bar has on hand. 

If that wasn’t enough, the decor ranks highly on sustainability too. The bar is made from 1,600 kg of recycled plastic bottles, designed and 3D printed at a length of 20 metres to weave around the bar. The coasters are also made from recycled plastic, and some tabletops are even made from mycelium, a network of fungal threads that have been inoculated with organic matter to create unique patterns and designs.

Analogue Initiative
Address: 30 Victoria Street, 01-31 Chijmes, S(187996), +65 8518 1882

5. Open Farm Community

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Above Open Farm Community is a farm-to-table restaurant, using locally-sourced ingredients for a more sustainable carbon footprint

Open Farm Community is a farm-to-table restaurant which hopes to connect people with food. Here, ingredients are mostly sourced locally, supporting local farms like Ah Hua Kelong, Toy Thye San farm and Hay Dairies. The restaurant is situated beside its edible garden, where fresh herbs and vegetables are harvested daily and used as garnishes.
 
The restaurant also boasts an extensive natural wine list, promoting forgotten grapes and regions. These selected domains favour authenticity and responsible ethics, while refraining from the use of herbicides and chemicals in its vineyards and winemaking. Other than ethically sourced produce, the restaurant also strives to limit single-use plastics, wasteful water and electricity usage. 

Open Farm Community
Address: 130E Minden Road, S(248819), +65 6471 0306

6. Labyrinth

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Above Labyrinth is chef-owner LG Han’s exploration of modern Singaporean cuisine, which involves sustainable and local sourcing of ingredients

Sustainable dining has a broad definition, from providing meatless options to reducing its overall carbon footprint. For Labyrinth, sustainable dining means providing guests with a 90 per cent locally sourced menu. Diners will find ingredients procured from local farms like Ah Hua Kelong and Edible Garden City. “It’s really about discovering these gems of produce out in Lim Chu Kang, Lorong Halus, Chua Chu Kang, [and] Kranji that is locally farmed by local people,” shares chef-owner Han Liguang. Its menu also puts the spotlight on local flavours, such as the rojak. This dish features sorbet of jackfruit and cempedak sourced from the local Tekka market, and 12 herbs and vegetables from local farms such as Edible Garden City.

Labyrinth
Singaporean   |   $ $ $   |  

8 Raffles Avenue, #02-23 Esplanade Mall, S(039802)

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7. Naked Finn

Hidden in Gillman Barracks is the seafood-centric restaurant, Naked Finn. Its bounty is sourced from small fisheries that focus on non-mainstream species, so the popular varieties that are under threat of extinction are able to recover. It’s for this reason that obscure fish and those which are vulnerable to overfishing (such as tuna and Atlantic halibut), won’t appear on the menu.

Instead, look forward to tantalising dishes featuring less vulnerable marine species—among which are the juicy giant river prawns grilled a la plancha; narrow-barred Spanish mackerel grilled over binchotan; and chewy Japanese abalone braised in abalone dashi for six hours. Sauces and dips are also made in-house and are served to enhance the natural flavours of the dishes. 

Naked Finn
Address: 39 Malan Road, Gillman Barracks, S(109442), +65 6694 0807

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