Cover The interiors of Station by Kotuwa are inspired by Colombo’s bustling Kotuwa railway station
The interiors of Station by Kotuwa are inspired by Colombo’s bustling Kotuwa railway station
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Acclaimed chef Rishi Naleendra replaces Fool wine bar with Station, ushering a new era of Sri Lankan tapas that is fun, inclusive and downright delicious
Challenging times are upon the restaurant industry in Singapore and no one can afford to flog a dead horse. Fortunately, Rishi Naleendra isn’t one to do so. While his restaurant at 21 Boon Tat Street has underwent several incarnations, the address has always been his berth of creativity. Here’s a quick recap: it all started with the celebrated Cheek by Jowl, followed by the charming Cheek Bistro, and later this morphed into the trendy wine bar Fool. Today, a new era is upon us with the debut of Station by Kotuwa.
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Above Jay Teo is the head chef of Station, who also happens to be employee zero of Cheek by Jowl
Jay Teo is the head chef of Station, who also happens to be employee zero of Cheek by Jowl
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Drawing inspiration from Colombo’s bustling Kotuwa railway station, this vibrant sister of the acclaimed Kotuwa is tastefully fitted with open shutters, vintage-inspired décor, and arresting Sri Lankan artwork, reminding of Rishi’s early memories of frenetic energy, transient hordes, and an army of vendors selling snacks, drinks, and sweets. At the helm is Jay Teo, who was employee zero of Cheek by Jowl, returning as the head chef of Station, where he plates up modern Sri Lankan fare in style.
Above Freshly shucked oysters with achcharu granita
Freshly shucked oysters with achcharu granita
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First off, we began our culinary journey with snacks. Freshly shucked oysters are crowned with bright orange achcharu granita, giving briny mollusc meets tangy lychee pickle. Pachadi (chutney), enriched with sweet pineapples and fat green olives, delivers bursts of savoury, spiced, and tangy sensations. Tripe, flash fried after a thorough cleanse, transform into crispy beefy slivers lifted with a smoked chilli aioli, and a splash of lime—a crisp lager to pair will be perfect.
Above Crispy tripe with smoked chilli aioli and lime
Crispy tripe with smoked chilli aioli and lime
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Starters here will remind one of the fun casual tapas of its predecessor (Fool) but with a Sri Lankan makeover. Cubes of kingfish sashimi arrive tossed with textures of crisp pickled jambu, mildly spiced green chillies, toasted puffed rice, and served with crispy hot pappadums as vessels—think Sri Lankan ceviche.
But our favourite? Chicken livers finessed in a traditional kaliya, a curry gravy lending influence from Sri Lankan and Malay heritage. Presented together with fluffy egg roti, the dish is complete with fried onions, raw shallots, fried curry leaves and some lime.
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Above Chicken liver kaliya with fluffy egg roti
Above Kingfish sashimi with pickled jambu, green chillies, toasted puffed rice, and pappadums
Chicken liver kaliya with fluffy egg roti
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Designed to be shared, the mains are headlined by fulfilling proteins doused in rich and hearty gravies. The roast chicken—which is succulent and tender between breast and thigh thanks to Rishi’s insistence on differential cooking times—comes nicely charred and painted with devilled butter. Beef cheeks, braised till pillowy soft, sit in a robust blackened coconut gravy, deserving of a spoonful of basmati and a sprinkle of pol sambal (dried coconut, chilli, and lime) to chase. Even the cauliflower, soft to bite yet caramelised on the crust, begs for more ghee-kissed roti to mop up the mildly spiced kiri hodi (Sri Lankan coconut milk curry).
Above Valrhona chocolate biscuit pudding with arrack chantilly
Valrhona chocolate biscuit pudding with arrack chantilly
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Here, the dessert section does enough to thrill those with a sweet tooth. Refreshing and cold, the falooda is a welcome treat at the end of the meal but for balanced decadence, the Valrhona chocolate biscuit pudding with arrack chantilly is masterful.
Cocktails, inspired by Sri Lanka’s famous railway trains, impress with the lemongrass and ginger blasted Gulu Kumari (gin sonic) and the chilli and tamarind kissed Yal Devi (spicy margarita). Otherwise, the forward-thinking wine list (spot the dry furmint in the by-the-glass section) works for the casual, the hipster, and the particular.
In a fast-paced city filled with patrons obsessed with dining out in good times and bad, Rishi has created something truly fun, casual, and above all—inclusive. It feels like a restaurant you’ll want to return to again and again, just because the food is seriously tasty. There’s soul at Station and we reckon even Hank Mobley would agree.
Credits
Images: Station by Kotuwa
