How a trip to Singapore inspired chef Dharshan Munidasa to open Ministry of Crab

His detoured journey into the restaurant world was accidental but no less pivotal when shaping his culinary philosophy. Despite the lack of classical kitchen training, Munidasa enjoys cooking for his loved ones. Adding to his culinary foundation, he also regularly dines out where he pays close attention to what goes on his plate. In his travels to Japan, he conversed and befriended many Japanese chefs and craftsmen. “I gifted Sri Lankan tea in return for their hospitality and generosity,” he shares. In 1995, with his mother’s encouragement, he debuted Nihonbashi, a Japanese restaurant in Colombo with a resolute vision of only utilising Sri Lankan ingredients instead of relying on imports.

Being half Japanese and half Sri Lankan, Munidasa seeks to marry both cultures using Sri Lankan ingredients, especially spices, and washoku (food of Japan) techniques. “It comes naturally when your blood is mixed, like the ability to think and dream in many languages,” he explains. This obsession with Sri Lankan produce pointed him to local tuna destined for Tsujiki, Japan and local mud crabs dedicated to Singapore. “In Sri Lanka, sourcing whole tuna for a restaurant on a weekly basis was unheard of back then and still rare today. Thankfully, I was taught by Taiwanese tuna graders, who fished the waters, how to grade the prized fish.”

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The thirst for knowledge extended beyond tuna but also for crabs as Sri Lankan crabs were once graded for export. With the desire to acquire this expertise, Munidasa frequents Pettah Market in Colombo to learn from seasoned crab mongers. That gave him access to the best crabs in Sri Lanka. “It is a course that no culinary school has in its curriculum,” he quips. Today, all Ministry of Crab crew members are equipped with this knowledge. Nihonbashi later became the first restaurant in Colombo to serve up a 2-kilogram chilled crab with ponzu dressing, which garnered praise.

Establishing a crustacean diplomacy

Fast forward to 2009, while filming an episode of Culinary Journeys with Dharshan for television, Munidasa learnt about Singapore’s fervent love and respect for the Sri Lankan crustacean, featured in the Singapore chilli crab—a revered national dish. The seed of an idea was planted. But it was only after a friend suggested that he open a dedicated crab restaurant after watching his show, that Munidasa started watering. In 2011, Munidasa finally opened Ministry of Crab, a restaurant dedicated to the Sri Lankan mud crab, together with Sri Lankan cricketing legends Mahela Jayawardena and Kumar Sangakkara.

It was an instant hit and soon, Ministry of Crab expanded its presence in multiple overseas locations. On why he only opened in Singapore now, Munidasa confesses that the opportunity to showcase Sri Lankan mud crab dishes in the “mud crab capital” was too enticing to pass up. However, the long-awaited arrival was plagued by time spent finding the right business partners as well as surviving the pandemic, delaying his intention to expand. Until now.

No freezers, please

When it comes to quality control, which earned cult-like adulation among crab devotees worldwide, Munidasa rules with an iron fist. Singapore is no exception. It will enjoy a consistent supply of the best crabs and giant freshwater prawns—crabs are flown in between one or two days directly from Colombo. “We (the mothership restaurant located in Colombo) are the largest crab purchaser in Sri Lanka. We have a dedicated team to ensure we procure the best crabs for all of our restaurants. No third-party trading company,” he affirms.

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Then there’s the bold no-freezer policy. “We never use frozen crabs, in fact, anything from a can,” Munidasa declares. While it certainly isn’t an easy task, Munidasa is committed to achieving and adhering to his promise. The profound pride of Munidasa’s Japanese heritage is firmly rooted in this practice. “Back in the Edo period, before refrigeration was introduced, people served whatever they caught that day from the Tokyo Bay,” he expounds about the historical practice that inspired the policy.

But Ministry of Crab Singapore won’t just be a carbon copy of its Colombo counterpart. As Singapore serves as the stopover of choice between Japan and Sri Lanka, Munidasa was exposed to its cuisine growing up and has since developed a deep appreciation for it. “I often crave Hokkien mee, Hainanese chicken rice and sambal stingray,” he delights when teasing the possibility of creating exclusive dishes that pay homage to the Lion City’s culinary heritage. At the time of writing, Munidasa had flown his entire opening team for the Singapore outpost over to Colombo for three weeks’ worth of training. 

When the doors officially open next month, the stage is set to ignite a crustacean frenzy. And as for the accidental chef-restaurateur, it is safe to say that his homecoming journey has come full circle.

Ministry of Crab Dempsey
Address: 6 Dempsey Road, S(249683)

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