Cover Chef Zor Tan of Born, the contemporary fine dining restaurant located on the first floor of the historic Jinrikisha Station (Image: Born)

The restaurant heralds a new chapter while showcasing the chef’s “best of right now”

Chef Zor Tan spent the most part of his career working alongside world‐renowned Taiwanese chef Andre Chiang, first at Jaan at the Swissotel The Stamford, then Restaurant André, Raw in Taipei, and later Sichuan Moon in Macau’s Wynn Palace, as executive chef, where he led the restaurant to secure two Michelin stars just five months after its opening in 2019—and becoming the highest new entry at No 23 in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2020.

The pandemic brought Tan home to be with his young family (by then, he had been travelling back and forth between Singapore and Macau for almost two years), and last June he finally stepped out of the shadow of his mentor to set up his own restaurant, so named Born to signal his culinary rebirth—and his life coming full circle. The restaurant takes up residence in the historic Jinrikisha Station, once a depot for rickshaws, at the junction of Neil Road and Tanjong Pagar Road.

“When Restaurant André closed [abruptly in 2018], everyone was asking me about my next move,” says Tan. “I’ve always [worked] under the shadow of chef Andre, and if I was going to open my own restaurant, it had to be something that belongs to me. I want to start from zero—and I think [the name] Born suits me best. It’s something very simple, but has a lot of meaning behind it.”

While the seeds of starting his own restaurant were planted earlier on, Tan took on that one last stint with Chiang at the aforementioned Sichuan Moon, before the opportunity came knocking from the 1855 F&B lifestyle and hospitality group to partner up for its second chef‐led concept after modern Asian restaurant Path by chef Marvas Ng.

Read also: New Restaurant Alert: Path Serves Up Mod-Asian Fare With French Flair

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Above Pickles and snacks, the opening course in the journey through chef Tan's circle of life philosophy (Image: Born)

For Tan, the name Born is also an acronym for the “best of right now”. He explains: “These moments [right now] are my best moments because I need to stand up on my own”. And this is very much connected to his culinary philosophy of the circle of life, expressed in the contemporary cuisine at the fine dining restaurant, with influences from his more than a decade‐long experience working in elite French kitchens and his Chinese heritage.

“I come from humble beginnings. Since young, I wanted to be a chef and started from a commis cook to becoming a chef‐owner as well as a mentor to young chefs today,” says the Malaysia‐born Tan. “In Chinese culture, we always say that life is like a circle—everything will come to an end and restart again. Born reflects my life and culinary journey, through this circle of life philosophy.”

Some of his fondest memories growing up have been around food. His parents ran an economic rice, or chye png, stall in Malaysia, and “I never had to worry about going hungry; there was always food ready for me when I came back from school. So I hold to the belief that contentment comes from having a full belly”. While Tan never got to help out at the stall, he stood on the side lines watching his parents in the kitchen—and this very much influenced him later in life.

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Above Dutch artist Peter Gentenaar’s ethereal sculpture, crafted from crepe-like paper, hovers over Born’s high-ceilinged main dining room (Image: Born)

CIRCLE OF LIFE

There are nine guiding principles to his culinary philosophy: birth, roots, memories, craft, relationship, vicissitudes, time, progress, and legacy. “Every guiding principle is connected to me and what I’ve done in the past and what I’m doing now,” says Tan. “I think at the end, when I create a dish, it’s not about how it looks or tastes like, but it has to be something that I’m familiar with, whether it’s the produce combination, the memory, or the story behind it.”

Memories are important to Tan when it comes to his approach to food. Case in point: the chicken skin mille feuille, eggplant and caviar, which makes up one‐eighth of the pickles and snacks course that opens every meal, is a tribute to his mum’s fried eggplant with pork belly dish. “The memory is inspired by my mum’s cooking and also my parents running their stall. Some of the dishes at the restaurant may not be exactly the same, but it’s [an expression] of my memory,” Tan explains. “I like eggplant, which my mum always cooks with pork belly, so [at Born] I use chicken skin sandwiched together with an eggplant puree.”

One course that truly encompasses his circle of life philosophy is vicissitudes, served at the end of the meal as petit fours, featuring the complexities of the sweet, sour, bitter and spicy flavours, representing life’s ups and downs. Or as Tan describes it: “You won’t appreciate sweetness without having experienced bitterness.”

He is happy when guests are connected to his philosophy and “can feel the heart and effort we put in”. He explains, “I think this is more important than I would say a full house every day. Even if you get a full house, but your guests don’t understand your cuisine, you will feel empty. But when they are connected, you feel like you’re on the right track and doing the right thing.”

Read also: A Taste of Home: Cookbook Writer Shu Han Lee on Her Favourite Singaporean Flavours

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Photo 1 of 3 Tan curated a nine-course menu for guests, which includes dishes such as pigeon, grains and corn
Photo 2 of 3 Aged beef, oyster and fried bao
Photo 3 of 3 Toasted rice, chestnut and sable

Tan hopes to do more when it comes to engaging with guests. One way he is doing this is introducing them to ingredients that are rarely found in Singapore. One example is jade fungus, which grows wild in the high altitude of China’s Yunnan Mountains, an ingredient he encountered during his time at Sichuan Moon. At Born, the crisp jade fungus is served with silky monk fish. Interestingly, the ingredient is a nod to the ethereal cloud‐like sculpture crafted from paper that hangs over the main dining room, which was commissioned from Dutch artist Peter Gentenaar.

The restaurant has been open for more than six months now—and the plan is to change the menu every six months. But for now, Tan will run his current menu for a bit longer. “[The menu] reflects both my professional and personal journey and, through it, I hope more people get to know who I am. I think it would bring more meaning to the second menu if you know the chef’s background.”

While Chiang has yet to make an appearance at the restaurant—at the time of writing in January, the chef and his wife are due for a visit after the Lunar New Year holidays—he has left an indelible mark on the way Tan works his way around the kitchen. Working together all those years, from running the pass to being his right‐hand man, one lesson from Chiang that Tan takes with him till today, “I always say it’s common sense. I always tell the team, when you want to do something, I already know your next step. If you want to get the salt, I can see you want to get the salt because your movements inform me, so I will pass it you.”

He adds, “You want to be faster than the chef before he takes action. This is the thing that made me feel very alert, because if you are slower than him, then it means you are slow. But if he hasn’t told you what to do, and you’re already there, it will make everything run faster and service will be smoother.”

Surely one can expect nothing less from having worked with the best.

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