Province chef-owner Jia-Jun Law
Cover Province chef-owner Jia-Jun Law (Photo: Province)
Province chef-owner Jia-Jun Law

At Province, chef-owner Law Jia-Jun turns the lens on Singapore itself—deconstructing hawker classics and childhood memories into a tasting menu that is at once deeply nostalgic and unmistakably his own

At Province, chef-owner Jia-Jun Law has always looked to Southeast Asia for inspiration. Since opening the intimate 10-seater in 2023, his cooking has revolved around local and regional ingredients—humble produce from nearby farms, obscure herbs and spices sourced from across the region. With the restaurant’s latest spring menu, however, Law’s attention turns closer to home.

This menu tastes unmistakably Singaporean.

Not literally. Diners won’t find chicken rice, kaya toast or rojak plated before them. Instead, Law and his team approach these familiar dishes the way musicians sample old records: isolating flavours, textures and memories before remixing them into something new. The result is a menu deeply rooted in Singapore’s culinary identity, yet shaped by the restraint, precision and produce-driven philosophy Law honed in esteemed Californian kitchens.

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Province is an intimate 10-seater restaurant helmed by chef-owner Jia-Jun Law
Above Province is an intimate 10-seater restaurant helmed by chef-owner Jia-Jun Law
Province is an intimate 10-seater restaurant helmed by chef-owner Jia-Jun Law

“In our first three years, what guided our creations were ingredients, memory and personal history,” says Law. “Now we're applying that same curiosity towards Singapore’s culinary classics—understanding what makes them so enduring, how their flavours work together, and why they resonate with so many of us.”

The shift feels natural. Law’s cooking has always balanced technical finesse with emotional storytelling, drawing from his Singaporean upbringing and heritage. But where previous menus placed ingredients at the forefront, this new chapter examines the anatomy of dishes themselves: their contrasts, rhythms and layers of flavour.

The opening course evokes the sweet-savoury chaos of rojak without visually resembling it. Pristine slices of momotaro tomato, botan ebi and crunchy jambu arrive polished and composed, yet beneath the presentation lies a familiar interplay of sweetness, acidity and umami. Jambu juice is reduced to a sticky, molasses-like dressing and combined with house-fermented hae kor, while the natural sweetness of the produce eliminates the need for added sugar or salt. The dish feels clean and refined, but its soul is unmistakably hawker.

Read more: Love local: A new generation of chefs is redefining modern Singaporean cuisine

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216 Wanton
Above 216 Wanton
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Teochew braised duck
Above Teochew braised duck
216 Wanton
Teochew braised duck

That balance between memory and reinvention continues with 216 Wanton, created by sous chef Jarren Foo. The dish takes its name from the unit number of Foo’s childhood home, where weekly bowls of wanton soup sustained him through leukemia treatment. Here, dumplings filled with Sarawak pork, shrimp and dried flounder powder are braided in the style of Sardinian culurgiones, then set in a broth simmered with chicken, shiitake, soy beans and ikan bilis, alongside sweet Indonesian mud crab and slices of fresh pear. Warm, comforting and deeply soothing—the emotional core is intact, even as the form is entirely reimagined.

Law’s Teochew-style braised duck, one of the restaurant’s signatures, continues to evolve. The soy-based braising liquid carries familiar aromatics—galangal, star anise, cinnamon—alongside makwan pepper, a Thai prickly ash prized for its bright citrus fragrance. Served in two parts, the dish concludes with Sarawak Highland rice tossed with pickled garlic scapes, chives, duck fat and lemon zest, finished with duck consommé and Province’s own lap cheong wrapped in duck skin and confited in duck fat. Rich and deeply savoury, yet clear and restrained—hallmarks of Law’s Californian training, where produce and balance consistently take precedence over excess.

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Brioche, burnt sourdough ice cream, kaya
Above Brioche, burnt sourdough ice cream, kaya
Brioche, burnt sourdough ice cream, kaya

Dessert is perhaps the menu’s most direct nod to local nostalgia. Inspired by kaya toast, Province’s version transforms the breakfast staple into something luxurious while preserving its essential DNA. Brioche soaked in coconut custard is toasted with butter and coconut flower sugar, creating a caramelised bitterness that tempers the richness. Burnt sourdough ice cream introduces savoury, tangy counterpoints, while kaya drizzle, egg yolk jam and Maldon salt flakes recreate the familiar pleasures of warm toast, cold butter and soft-boiled eggs.

Even as the menu grows more rooted in Singapore’s culinary language, the spirit of Province remains unchanged. Guests still gather around the intimate communal counter, where conversation flows naturally between chefs and diners—and often between strangers.

“Part of the joy of eating is connecting with the people around you,” says Law. “Over the years, we’ve witnessed guests share stories prompted by something they tasted, or something another guest said. Beyond the food and hospitality, our guests get to experience these moments of connection.”

At Province, that connection now extends beyond ingredients and seasons into something even more personal: the collective memory of Singaporean food itself.

Credits

Images: Province

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Dudi Aureus
Senior dining & travel editor, Tatler Best co-jury chair for Singapore, Tatler Singapore
Tatler Asia

Dudi Aureus is the senior dining and travel editor at Tatler Singapore, covering the city’s most exciting restaurants, global travel trends, and the personalities shaping the culinary and lifestyle scenes. She also serves as co-jury chair for the Tatler Best awards in Singapore, celebrating the very best in hospitality. When she’s off duty, she can often be found at a favourite hole-in-the-wall Thai spot, savouring a perfectly balanced pad thai.